Need to reduce brightness andheat on windowsills
Maru, 5b
8 years ago
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Maru, 5b
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Need advice on my Ficus Benjamina.
Comments (41)Thanks! :) Your rooted cuttings make a lovely little tree but I'm not sure it's gonna be happy in that glass for long. My plantlets haven't grown much for a good while, only they filled their pots with roots. Not sure if the same's gonna happen to yours but if they grow, there won't be enough space. And to flush the medium you need holes at the bottom. All my semi-hydro plants are in normal pots with holes and saucer/cache pot underneath. The ones in non-draining glasses are bromeliads and they only get sprayed with water every now and then. I just wondered, how come your mother plant has plain green and variegated leaves at the same time?...See Moreanyone growing miniature orchids?
Comments (17)- Angraecum didieri is a wonderful miniature, and suited for windowsills. Mine were never happy potted, so I'd recommend mounting or propping in an empty clay pot. - E. cochleata is not a miniature, at least by my def. My (late) plant was bursting from a 7" pot and the spikes ran at least 2-3 feet high. - Neo. falcata is also a great choice. Stays small, beautiful in all seasons. Probably the easiest to grow of those listed here. - Dendrobium unicum. A neat mini dend, only 3-4" high, 2" pot. Gorgeous orange flowers. Light more toward the lower, dend-phal intensity. Drawback: deciduous, so the plant looks like a cluster of dead sticks for about 5 months of the year. Positive: you can mostly ignore it during the winter. - Rupicolous laelias from Brazil, including L. milleri, briegeri, lucasiana, liliputiana, mixta, etc. Small plants (usually under 6") with nice flowers. Needs more light than the plants above, and will definitely need a summer outdoors. - Mini dend hybrid and mini catt hybrid people, what say ye? Gotta be some good, cast-iron miniatures out there. (Sorry for the powerpoint style post.)...See MoreTen myths of growing under lights
Comments (51)it has a conventional (ancient school) halide element. I have been using Venture Pulse Start Metal Halide, they actually are full spectrum, but completely not needed, because HPS alone is GOOD and CHEAP!!! I donated my 775W PSMH to the Federal Canal Park greenhouse, although if you are into big time growing, that lamp is ferocious! - both by the results! and by my PAR meter. to grow large bushes, i have the 575W PSMH Venture, which is fabulous! for PAR, spectrum, and growth. currently, i'm actually into LED. I make my own LED panel, 2x4' panel, using 660 (4 x 11) 630 (4x10) 600 (2x10) and 440 (3x14) working with LED is tricky, you can buy them from ebay, look for the 3w ones that are labeled XP-E. I measure each one, for forward voltage vs current, and toss the outliers. the XP-E however, is very consistent, and you only toss about 2 or 3 out of 25. after that, be prepared to do a lot of wire stripping (i use 24 guage stranded). it is VERY time consuming, but that is my hobby, however, I have done the "mistakes" for you benefit, so you can learn from my mistakes. my first prototype was just using 630 and 440, but the results were NOT as good as fluoro - growth was very fast, but foliage was not the super dark green that i was getting with overdriven fluoro T8, so I scraped the LED's off, and started again. right now, i have a new board completed, as described above, and I'm testing it out with tomato seeds, one set of seeds with the old board (630 +440) vs added 600 and 660. my new board is also slightly higher powered. I learned do NOT use cheapo power supplies - you can get good used Meanwell supplies, on ebay, if you keep your eyes out. I use 48v supply for the 440, because they require more voltage, and i use 24v supply for the 660 630 and 600. each color needs its own supply, the supply voltage is adjustable, and you're looking for 0.7 amps for each string of LED. not for the faint of heart. if it was not a hobby for me, i'd stick with fluoro, HPS, and PSMH - cheaper, and much much easier, also the results are proven. -overdrive....See MoreAdvice Needed before tomorrow
Comments (7)Thanks everyone. Thanks Drew - I will keep them under the plant lights. After a week I notice there is still some green on them although for a couple not much - all the stems are still hard - haven't become mushy so I am cautiously optimistic. I hope I don't lose them. I spent a lot of mornings in February on getting up daily at 4 am to water them while they were in the perlite/vermiculite. One further question I have which relates to the partial reason I moved them now anyway, I noticed when all of them first leafed out they all looked really great -- nice green leaves etc, After several months i.e. February to June some of the leaves starting getting brown and/or dropping, This happened even before I tried fertilizing them. After fertilizing it didn't really help the situation -- didn't get worse didn't get better. The plants were still under the lights during this time, So, I thought perhaps the perlite/vermiculite just couldn't hold onto the nutrients or the plants couldn't absorb them for some reason -- after a day or two I watered each with water only to wash out excess salts. I would then later fertilize again, I did this routine a few times but it didn't seem to help. Also putting out new leaves seemed to have slowed ... so this is why I transplanted them, It seemed like they were starting to go downhill so I thought I'd better move them. I hope they will recover in a couple of weeks under the lights. Should I fertilize weakly during the two weeks? 1/4 strength maybe of the foilage pro/protekt/superthrive (not sure superthrive actually does much but I thought I read somewhere on the forum that it seems it is helpful to the roots during transplant time). Have a good day all! Brian...See MoreNil13 usda:10a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.)
8 years agoMaru, 5b thanked Nil13 usda:10a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.)Maru, 5b
8 years agoMaru, 5b
8 years agobreton2
8 years ago
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