@ different problems- The hard cranking is TYPICAL of a BRIGGS OHV engine that needs a valve adjustment. IF the valve lash is too excessive, the compression release on the cam doesn't work. Intake .006-.008" Exhaust .009-.011" Starting problem- Have you checked the fuse? IF the fuse is intact, you should hear the fuel solenoid "click" when turning the key off/on/off/on.... You DON'T need to be in the seat. Cranking- 12V is present at the B (battery) terminal of the key switch. In the start/crank position, the S (start) is connected to B. S goes to the clutch/brake switch, which must be depressed to complete THAT part of the circuit. (should be WHITE? wired side. Black wired side isn't of interest in this case) That is connected to the attachment switch, which must be OFF to complete THAT part of the circuit. That goes to the SMALL terminal of the starter solenoid to energize the solenoid. I'm using the schematic from a 917.271841 (which I have and ASSume is the same as yours), since the Sears site is currently down. The only difference I would a.... is that possibly you have an electric PTO, which would be a 6 terminal switch instead of 4. http://www.searspartsdirect.com

Thanks for your reply rustyj14. I have a sticker on the underside of 1 of the running boards that shows the belt diagram and I think it is on right, but will check that in the morning. Any more possible suggestions?

I need help with my Lt 1000 as well the model number is 917 271920 not sure what year is it but my issue is that the axles won't spin when I put it in gear. It won't go forward or backwards it used to before I opened the transaxle to install the axle locks or whatever is called the ring that holds the axle in place and prevents it from sliding out. After I put everything back together it stopped working. There was this one washer that fell off when I first opened it and I had no idea where it belong and to be honest I do not know if I put it in the right place.

I don't believe you understand the significance (function/purpose) of the things going on here. You CANNOT disconnect A1 at any time. In fact, the circuit that is supposed to be powered by the key switch terminal A1.............might not be getting energized by the key switch at all right now (defective key switch). This may get complicated (my explanation), so try to bear with me. The key switch internal contacts that serve terminal A1 must be "hot" in the RUN position AND in the START position. To do this, the rotary part of the switch contact has been given a very long stationary contact strip so A1 circuit does not lose its connection when the key is turned to the START position. BUT! Circuit A1 is not powered ONLY by key switch terminal A1...................Circuit A 1 ALSO receives current directly from the voltage regulator output wire (feed path is through OP3 terminal 30).............but this "secondary" A1 power source DOES NOT come available UNTIL the engine RPM comes up enough to cause the alternator/regulator to make electric current. So here is what I believe might be happening with your tractor now. The key switch has a "dead zone" in the long stationary contact causing a loss of continuity to circuit A1 in the RUN position. But when the key is turned to START.....the rotary contact of A1 in the switch moves to a spot that DOES provide continuity........and so the fuel solenoid is energized and opens. And the engine starts. But, when you let go the key immediately, and it returns to the RUN position, A1 circuit becomes dead again. And because the charging system has not yet produced any "real" current yet............the fuel solenoid closes.....engine dies. Holding the key in START position for long enough to allow the charging system to come online and substitute for a sound A1 circuit from the key switch may be "key" to ciphering how this unusual circumstance is manifesting itself in this case. Testing this (this theory) could be as simple as providing a separate (temporary for testing only) source of power to the fuel solenoid that would eliminate the A1 portion of the electrical system by running a fused jumper wire to the fuel solenoid from a battery positive source (such as the battery + terminal on the starter solenoid). I do not suggest you do any of this unless you actually know how to do real automotive electrical work! Having ever had your hands on Lucas Electric components does not count :^) If the engine starts and does not die as soon as you let go the key with a proper test jumper wire connected to the fuel solenoid............you have cornered the problem.