Craftsman LT1000 won't start

15 years ago

Hi Everybody, I am new to post here but have been lurking and learning. I have a LT1000 Model 917.271842 with a 21.0hp twin B&S I/C engine model#461707. My problem is the mower will not start. It makes no noise at all, nothing, no clicking just dead. I load tested my battery and it reads fine. I fully charged it also. For the past year or so it starts hard,makes a couple turn of the starter then stops and then catches and finally starts. Yesterday after cutting all day I shut it of to blow the dust off and it would not start again. I have taken apart and cleaned all connections. I have 12+ volts to one of the red wires and the black wires on the solenoid, not to the other red or the white wires at anytime while turning key. I used a new car battery and jumped direct from the possitive to the starter and it turns over but still its kind of hard (turns then stops, turns and stops) I removed the 2 spark plugs and the starter turns over easier (pretty much like normal). I then jumped with a screw driver across the 2 large bolts on the solenoid and it turns over also. I then put the spark plugs back in and jumped the starter again and it turned hard again. Do I have 2 problems? It seemd like all the safty switchs are working but how can I check? The solenoid? Do the valves need adjustment on this engine? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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Comments (6)

overkillphil
15 years ago
This may sound like a stupid or obvious question, but when you shut it off to blow off the dust, did you disengage the blades?
honey58
Original Author
15 years ago
Yep everything is as it should be. I checked to make sure all safety switches were working and the blade lever was one of those I made sure had contact. I have had 2 different answers one telling me to do a valve adjustment and another one telling me that engine does not require valve adjustment. I looked at a parts list and I do not think it does require it either as there is no valve cover with rocker arms on it. Any thoughts? Thanks
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Make sure the engine is properly grounded to the tractor frame. Loose mounting bolts (in some cases) can be the culprit. IF you have a Voltmeter- place + lead on engine block. place - lead on battery -. Try to crank the engine. Anything over 0.2V (or so) DC is considered excessive. IF your reading is multiple volts, you basically don't have a ground.
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Have a look see at the electrical switches, wiring etc for signs of shorts, rodents etc. If you are certain on the no spark part of it, my best guess is a short was created in an operator presents relay, maybe the switch- connector melted. These are not battery dependent ignition, but the common denominators are the op relays, ignition switch etc. If the fuse is blowing instantly, at least it should be easy to narrow down by disconnecting a component /circuit at a time. OP relays are not always accurately represented on IPLs or wiring diagrams for that matter. Yours may have between 0 and 3 of them. they basically are standard relays commonly used on automotive accessories. The 917 # from below the seat may be helpful.
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***"On TDC the exhaust valve spring is at 1-1/8 in. out and the intake is at 1-3/8 in. out."*** I need to emphasize that "TDC" and "TDC on the COMPRESSION STROKE".......are not the same thing. So, having made that statement, let me ask this: When you are measuring the length/height of the valve springs...do you have clearance, or lash, between the rocker arm and valve stem of BOTH valves/rocker arms???. If yes, then you have most likely detected a displaced valve seat. If, however, you have no detectable clearance or lash at the valve stem/rocker arm of the "shorter" valve spring....the engine is positioned at TDC on the EXHAUST STROKE, and the camshaft is holding the exhaust valve OPEN, thus the "apparent shortening" of the exhaust valve spring. So, let's just double check that before we declare a displaced valve seat for sure. ***"Is this motor worth the money with about 1500 hours of usage?"*** That is something that only you can really decide based on how much you want to spend to rehab this engine. You can base your decision on "cost of repair $" versus "cost of new mower $" if you like, and consider that as an "objective decision" based solely on money spent at this time. But, you will still have an older machine that will have other things to fail/wear out down the road, and sometimes......you can second guess yourself to death in these situations. The bottom line decision you have to make is not so much about the worth of repairing THIS engine. It is about how much time/money are you willing to spend maintaining an older machine/engine? AND, whether you are personally capable of doing the work (or the bulk of it) yourself. As to a personal preferrence or recommendation of a particular brand of replacement mower.......I don't go there! But, there are many, many, many threads in this forum where the yays and nays of the different offerings of the market have been argued/debated/dissed etcetera. It almost boils down to "What color do you like?"
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Glad it's running! I'm not sure how fast you use up 10 gallons of fuel, but I wouldn't buy much more than a 30 day supply at a time. The alcohol absorbs moisture while it sits. I also fill the tank to the brim after using, IF the equipment is going to be sitting for an EXTENDED time. That reduces the air space in the tank. As the daily temperature changes, the air inside expands/contracts. This "breathing" pulls in fresh, moisture laden air. The alcohol absorbs the moisture and the next day repeat.... The more humid the climate, the worse the problem.
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bill_kapaun
15 years ago
@ different problems-
The hard cranking is TYPICAL of a BRIGGS OHV engine that needs a valve adjustment.
IF the valve lash is too excessive, the compression release on the cam doesn't work.
Intake .006-.008"
Exhaust .009-.011"

Starting problem-
Have you checked the fuse?
IF the fuse is intact, you should hear the fuel solenoid "click" when turning the key off/on/off/on....
You DON'T need to be in the seat.

Cranking-
12V is present at the B (battery) terminal of the key switch.
In the start/crank position, the S (start) is connected to B.
S goes to the clutch/brake switch, which must be depressed to complete THAT part of the circuit. (should be WHITE? wired side. Black wired side isn't of interest in this case)
That is connected to the attachment switch, which must be OFF to complete THAT part of the circuit.
That goes to the SMALL terminal of the starter solenoid to energize the solenoid.

I'm using the schematic from a 917.271841 (which I have and ASSume is the same as yours), since the Sears site is currently down.
The only difference I would a.... is that possibly you have an electric PTO, which would be a 6 terminal switch instead of 4.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com
bill_kapaun
15 years ago
Found the correct schematic, which IS the same-
http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0105110.pdf

It's ALWAYS GOOD when you give the numbers!!
honey58
Original Author
15 years ago
Good Morning Bill and everyone, I finally found part of the problem, I had a broken hot wire that was making contact part of the time and part of the time not. When I would move the wires to test it would make contact giving me a possitive reading and then all of a sudden it would quit. Well I fixed that and now it will at least crank over. I also tore that engine half apart and can not find anywhere to adjust valves. I do now think this engine does not require a valve adjustment. I think maybe my battery is bad as it smells of battery acid when cranking and even though I load tested it it seems half dead. I am going to get a new battery today. Any more ideas of weather this doesn't need a valve adjustment? Thanks so much for your help, Sincerely Connie
bill_kapaun
15 years ago
BRIGGS & STRATrON
MODEL 461707-0147-E1
Not sure WHY I assumed this was an OHV engine???

Your battery might be bad, but I'd clean all battery/solenoid/starter motor cable connections first. That includes the ground connections. Even check that the bolts holding the engine to the frame are snug, That's a ground connection too.

You said you had the battery load tested. You might charge it and have it tested again.
Once a battery is a couple years old, it is suspect though.

DO you have a volt meter?

Craftsman LT1000 won't start

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Craftsman LT1000 won't start

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