Also, as a side note- it started like this last year but eventually the entire leaf gets covered with these small brown spots.

I don't have pictures from last fall, but have been keeping an eye on them this week also. Here are a few more leaves. The ones in the middle are good examples of what happens- except instead of the spots being on the outer edge, they spread into the middle of the leaves as well. I've never been able to find a picture online of this either (unlike other garden ailments) which is puzzling to me. I may start using an antifungal/mold/mildew spray to see if that helps, unless anyone has a good reason not to?

Three possibilities come to mind; one is weather related (frost damage) and the others are leaf spot infections.

I would have the leaves tested for issues like powdery mildew (PM), bacterial leaf spot and anthracnose at a local Agric Extension Service or local university. PM is common in the Fall and in the Spring but, I have a problem with that possibility... the PM blotches are usually purple-ish with some grayish areas, not brown as in your pictures. So they do not match. At this time of the year (any time in Spring), I would expect to see frost damage and then PM issues first. But since this is a problem that started in the Fall and was not treated then, it might be anthracnose or bacterial leaf spot. Bacterial leaf spot would be my guess but is not common so it is a little rare to see someone with infected shrubs.

Here is info on bacterial leaf spot:

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/bacterial_leaf_spot_on_hydrangea

I considered frost damage but the lesions look too dark to be damage from late frosts; frost damage would look dark green, at least at first. Besides, you did not mention having frosts now and last year. You can confirm frost damage by pruning some leaves and observing if the replacements still have this problem or not, Probably do it somewhere that is not noticeable.

Proper identification of the fungal infection is important because spraying will only work on those diseases for which the spray was developed.

For example, a mix of water and milk can help with PM. For anthracnose, apply anti-fungals whose active ingredient is: azoxystrobin (Heritage), copper (Python; Camelot), chlorothalonil (Daconil), chlorothalonil + fenarimol (Twosome), potassium bicarbonate (Remedy), myclobutanil (Systhane), copper + mancozeb (Junction) or mancozeb (Dithane). Other than removing infected leaves or plants, I am not aware of treatments for bacterial leaf spot.

By the way, since you cut off those leaves in the pictures this year, can you observe if 2nd generation leaf replacements also develop this problem? Regarding fungal diseases in general, try watering the soil and never the leaves; water always very early in the mornings; if you have any plant debris, pick it up and dispose of it in the trash (when you have fungal issues) or in the compost pile (if you do not have fungal issues). If the area is always humid, try reducing the amount of water by a sliver to make it harder for the spores to have a good time..

But again, I stress taking leaf samples for analysis. And see if you have time to read the articles and give us your input on what best seems to be the issue since you have been with these affected shrubs for a while.

Can anyone tell me what is wrong with my buds.. its turning brown, it seem to originate from the base of the bud which connects it to the stem.

Also some of my hydrangeas which I am growing in containers have started getting curled leaves and the buds on those plants are dying as well.They get about 4 hours of morning sun and are in shade the rest of the day, the soil is moist but not soggy.

Curling is usually caused by winter weather damage although there is a hydrangea leaf curler insect. If you open the up the curled leaves and there is an insect then that is the issue; otherwise it probably is winter damage.

Open flower buds that show water marks and that brown out would suggest gray mold, aka, Botrytis Blight.

Other insects that can cause trouble are aphids and spider mites but the damage shown in the pictures is quite small. Mites usually develop small webbing that becomes visible and aphids like to drink the sap from the underside of leaves (so the leaves look damaged) and your leaves look just great. Maybe with a touch of yellow but new leaves do that sometimes. You may need magnifier glasses to check for insects and will need to ck during the day and night. Also, ck the underside of leaves.

Luis

PS - make sure you do not have periods of dry soil, moist soil and back to dry soil while the shrub has unopened flower buds. Or opened flower buds too...

Thanks a lot for the input @Luis. Really appreciate it. Going out rightaway with a magnifier glass :)