It may be worth a try- the plant is a prunus. How the graft will do in terms of delayed compatability, and whether the scion will be sufficiently supplied by the rootstock, or perhaps over-grow the rootstock will only be known by trying. I don't know about grafting tools- a sharp pocket knife or utility knife and some rubber bands and tape of some kind are all I ever use. These serve for cleft, whip and tongue, chip, bark, and budding. Occasionally a tiny dab of roofing tar is useful if I didn't get the end wrapped snugly. Now's a good time to find some suckers or water sprouts and use them to practice on. http://citrus.forumup.org/viewtopic.php?t=1762&mforum=citrus Good luck. M Here is a link that might be useful: Joe Real on grafting

Thank you Dax. This was about my third year in trying to propagate this J. virginiana. The first year I tried strong rooting hormone on cuttings, that failed. Second year I tried grafting with a knife (not razor sharp, just sharp) and doing the bag method except I did not let them breath, those all failed (quick), Spider mite infestation on the root stalks, and the knife not being razor sharp was likely the main causes for a quick death. Third year (this year) The scions seemed green for a long time in the humidity chamber after grafting, but I think that was just because the humidity preserved the chlorophyll even though the scions where getting little to no water uptake from the root stalk (guessing). The only ones to eventually grow a tiny bit and did not turn brown for the longest time, were the ones I had half in a jar of water (approach grafts), and they actually grew, but after I took the "graft" out of the humidity and removed the jar the tender new growth quickly shrived up and the last couple of scions I had died. I don't know if this guess is true or not, But I've been guessing (and hoping) the the only reason they failed is because I got the scions off the parent tree as the tree was coming out of dormancy in February (pollen cones on the tree where large and swollen, and just about to burst open). A very warm winter did not help either (breaking dormancy even earlier than typical.) So perhaps the scions did not have time to heal before the water started to transpire out of the foliage of the scions and juices flowing in the scions, thus a very poor graft union that was very susceptible to even tiny stresses in the aftercare (in other words: little to no water and nutrient uptake for the scions). Does this sound likely or not, (I don't mind if you disagree with what I said above, I want to learn as much as possible, so you can tell how you think about it). This time I want to get the scions in the dead of winter (in January). Do you think bagging the grafts could be better than the humidity chamber? Bagging them would be more work and I worry about spider mites, but I don't mind to do what ever it takes to get a successful cone of it, I'll do it. I would even spend hundreds or maybe even thousands of dollars to graft/clone it successfully. lol You probably know how it is for me, ones favorite plant/tree of a plant enthusiast is kind of like a very close family pet.

I was told to graft peach when temps reach at least 80F and leafed out and not before by Olpea who has over 300 peach trees. Here is what he told me That's really the challenge with peach wood, trying to keep it as dormantas possible. It is some of the first wood to break dormancy in therefrigerator, and the last wood that is grafted. In other words,something like apples stay dormant a long long time in the fridge, but also are grafted earlier than peaches, so apples are no problem keeping dormant until they are ready to graft. Likewise with pears. Peaches are the opposite, and so can be very difficult to keep dormant.Try to keep your refrigerator as close to 32F as possible. It won't hurt the scionwood to let it have some minor freezing b/t 30 and 32, as long as it's not really prolonged freezing. Prolonged freezing of the wood willdry it out and possibly kill it.Wait till your peaches fully leaf out before you try to graft, and makesure the next week has projected highs of 80F or more. Don't try to do budding for spring grafting peaches. Budding works fine in the fall, when using soft wood cuttings, but it doesn't work near as well in the spring,with hard wood cuttings.In the spring, use some form of scion grafting. It doesn't matter what type of graft you use, just not budding. I use about a 2 or 2.5" piece of scionwood with 2 or 3 buds on it. If the scionwood does start to sproutin the fridge, don't panic, just try to keep it cold and continue to waitfor the right temps outside, before grafting. I've still had good luck grafting sprouted wood, as long as the temps are right. Make sure youtape your graft connections well, and make sure you wrap the whole graftin parafilm. The second step is especially important if you're grafting with scionwood which has already sprouted.

You can read about the well known history of the Corfu Esrog; The Jaffa Rabbi Abraham Isaac Kook founded and headed the "Atzei Hadar" union for kosher etrog cultivators and marketers, to prevent from grafting the Jaffa etrog unto rootstock of sour orange or sweet lime, but very much promoted intraspecific grafting of the Greek citron upon Balady citron rootstock,[19] which is permitted by Halacha. The act led to the establishment of a beautiful variety in Israel, yet kosher, and saved the economy of Israel for decades. As of today it is the leading variety in Israel, and is a very important article in international trade.[20] Although the graft of Greek citron upon Balady rootstock was a great idea from practical and Halachic views, it induced suspicion from customers who wondered why the Israeli citron was suddenly so beautiful with an erect Pitam. Suspicion arose in Israel and in Diaspora, and many rumors spread. We find the late Grand Rabbi of Munkatch, namely Chaim Elazar Spira being aware about the change. He speculated that it was the same problem continuously claimed against the Greek in their homeland Greece, namely to be grafted or bred with lemon, which renders it non-kosher. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greek_citron#Introduction_to_Israel