I don't think your chances are as good as if you graft to a tree that has been in the ground for 1+ years. It is more like bench-grafting (as mentioned above), which generally works OK, but you'll probably see a higher failure rate than top-working a tree.

Another thing to consider is that I've seen some die-back at the ends of branches for freshly planted peaches. I'm not sure if it is caused by the cut tips drying out over the winter or what, but if you happened to graft to that spot, it obviously wouldn't work.

Thanks. I guess ill try to graft it tonight since the temperature is going to climb to 90F for a couple days before going back down to mid 70's.

I would wait for the tree to leaf out, if it starts growing well, you may be able to graft on it.

Will a cleft graft be effective if/when the tree leafs out and begins growing? If i graft in late spring or early summer im afraid the heat will cause the graft to fail.

I was told to graft peach when temps reach at least 80F and leafed out and not before by Olpea who has over 300 peach trees.

Here is what he told me

That's really the challenge with peach wood, trying to keep it as dormantas possible. It is some of the first wood to break dormancy in therefrigerator, and the last wood that is grafted. In other words,something like apples stay dormant a long long time in the fridge, but also are grafted earlier than peaches, so apples are no problem keeping dormant until they are ready to graft. Likewise with pears. Peaches are the opposite, and so can be very difficult to keep dormant.Try to keep your refrigerator as close to 32F as possible. It won't hurt the scionwood to let it have some minor freezing b/t 30 and 32, as long as it's not really prolonged freezing. Prolonged freezing of the wood willdry it out and possibly kill it.Wait till your peaches fully leaf out before you try to graft, and makesure the next week has projected highs of 80F or more. Don't try to do budding for spring grafting peaches. Budding works fine in the fall, when using soft wood cuttings, but it doesn't work near as well in the spring,with hard wood cuttings.In the spring, use some form of scion grafting. It doesn't matter what type of graft you use, just not budding. I use about a 2 or 2.5" piece of scionwood with 2 or 3 buds on it. If the scionwood does start to sproutin the fridge, don't panic, just try to keep it cold and continue to waitfor the right temps outside, before grafting. I've still had good luck grafting sprouted wood, as long as the temps are right. Make sure youtape your graft connections well, and make sure you wrap the whole graftin parafilm. The second step is especially important if you're grafting with scionwood which has already sprouted.

This is why the community is so awesome. I will wait until temps are over 80F and tree has leafed out. Thanks.