Our house is almost 100 years old, and at one time was the hub of a large farm. Haven't found too much interesting stuff: mostly junk and trash from the people I bought the house from. Last fall, while clearing burdock from behind the garage, I discovered that the sellers left me an unexpected surprise: a landfill. I don't know how long they used it for, but it is recent (there are plastic garbage bags, metal cans, plastic bottles, etc...), large, exposed (covered only by weeds and grass) and only 100' from our back door. It's also going to cost $5,000 or more to get it removed and cleaned up. In this town we have a great transfer station at the town hall where you can dump almost anything, as well as having access to sand, dirt, gravel, shreaded wood(mulch). All for free to town residents. Yet these lazy slobs chose to dump household garbage in their own back yard, and invited rats to over-run the garage and move into the house. Amazing how ignorant people can be.

Cmarlin, the front door is to the right of the bump out where the dining room is located. There is also a coat closet there, but I couldn't figure out how it worked with the bedroom closet, so I left it off. I so wish I was able to get a copy of the floorplan. Adellabedella--I understand what you are saying about the lack of updates, but surprisingly, this seems to be the norm in my area. I have probably looked at every one of the couple hundred MLS pictures in my town, and I wasn't really impressed with but a few of the homes I saw. Even the very expensive homes didn't really have great finishes and so many of them were decorated in, at least in my opinion, the most horrible of styles. I am in the New Orleans suburbs and honestly there is just not that much money here as compared to other areas. There are a few enclaves here and there where there is some affluence, but my town is mostly solidly middle class, paycheck to paycheck people. So in actuality, the finishes in this house are not that bad for the area. The floors are a great upgrade as they are beautiful in person and I'm sure cost whoever put them in upwards of $10K. I also would love to slowly add my own style to the home. I am not in love with ceramic tile countertops, but this countertop looks to be in great shape and didnt really bother me that much. I think I could definitely live with it for a while. The cabinets are nothing special, but they are OK and I actually like the color. They aren't as washed out looking in person. For the exterior, a paint job would definitely be in order. The sides of the house are in red brick. I wonder how much it would cost to leave the area around the entry stucco and just brick the front of the garage? At the least I would repaint in probably a neutral tan sort of color or maybe even a subtle blue gray like BM Stonington or Coventry Gray. For the interior, my first priority would probably be to add propery drapery to the windows in the formal rooms and the family room/kitchen. I know this alone could easily cost in excess of $1K, and that is if I go with a Pottery Barn type drape. I was thinking maybe simple panels of lined silk in the formal living/dining with some nice substantial rods, and a lined linen in the family room. I really like Pottery Barn's lined linen drapes that come with the stitching that allows you to insert the hooks. I would also change out the Hollywood-dressing room globe fixtures in the bathrooms. I would love to do sconces on either side of the mirror in at least the master. Next I would probably focus on the master bathroom. Don't really think I need to move anything or change any plumbing, but I would love an old fashioned small marble hexagon on the floor and some new vanities with marble countertops. As to the price--I really don't think I will buy the house if they won't come down off of the list price. If I could get them down to under $225K, I probably would buy. I really just wish there was a least another one or two homes that I could consider so I don't feel like I'm settling for the first thing that comes along.

cynic, I don't know why you are so cynical about the Post Office. Granted maybe yours is different but they are very professional in the area I live. As for registered mail... Around here the leaving of the slip is actually kind of an extra a service for the customer. The postman comes and tries to deliver it if you weren't home or don't answer, they leave a slip that you can pick it up that day. Otherwise, they try again the next day, etc. The slip is for your convenience to let you know you have registered mail. I'm guessing if they never bring the letter with them to deliver in your area, it's because the mailman isn't close enough to make numerous trips back during the day to get the letters back there so people can pick them up so it becomes more beneficial for the customer to be able to just pick up whenever they want. Think about it, if no one is home most the day but the post man is going to be a carrying the letter around all day to try to deliver to you. You can't get it when it's convenient for you. The post man is at your home at 11:00, you get home at 3:00 but he's not back to the office with in until 5:25 -5:45 and the office closes at 5:30. That letter can't be two places at once. Do you want in on the street walking around or at the office for you to pick up? You also want to consider that yours is probably not the only registered letter, should he just be making trips back anf forth to the post office all day instead of delivering mail. How would you do it differently while still keeping the mail flowing efficiently in your area?

Know your enemy : Identifying grub damage Symptoms of white grub infestation include wilting of grass in patches, eventually turning brown or dying, sod that pulls up easily, in one piece, with the white grubs then visible underneath, feeding on the roots. Increased feeding activity of birds, moles, raccoons,etc. are another sign, you may notice holes in the sod where critters have been digging. The damage is most noticeable in Fall or in dry spells, though serious infestations may be visible in Spring. Dead brown areas can have other causes, such as pet urine, improper use of fertilizer or insecticide, turf diseases or improper mowing, so be sure to identify the problem before trying to treat it! In the case of grubs, if the insects are not easily visible just under the turf, there is no point in treating for them. The usual suspects.... The white grubs you will find feasting on grass roots are the larvae of several members of the beetle family, having an idea WHO you're hosting helps in controlling them. All are fat white C-shaped grubs, with brown heads and six legs, but the larvae of the May or June beetle can easily be 2" in length. This species can remain underground up to four years before becoming a winged adult, so timing of chemical controls is not as crucial, though they must be applied when the ground is warm enough for the grubs to be actively feeding. Japanese beetle larvae are smaller, about 1/2 inch, and have a noticeable V-shaped pattern on the 'raster', the dark bristly area at the end of the abdomen. Japanese beetles complete their life cycle in one year, laying eggs in mid-July which hatch in early August, chemical controls should be applied at that time while larvae are most susceptible. Masked chafer grubs are similar to Japanese beetle larvae in size, but lack the V-pattern on the raster.Unlike Japanese beetles, the adults of this species are short-lived, and do not eat while in the winged state. Their life cycle is similar, with August being the time to apply chemical controls. Dates given above for applications are most applicable for Zone 5, your local County Cooperative Extension Service will be happy to help you with timing treatments in your specific area. Any pesticide you choose MUST be labeled for use on white grubs, and label directions MUST be followed exactly. Preventing grub infestations: biological controls There are a few natural controls available to treat your lawn BEFORE grubs become a problem. Milky spore disease, which is most effective against Japanese beetles, and to a lesser extent against May/June beetles. The bacteria that cause the disease affect only white grubs, and after proper 'inoculation' into a lawn area, remain active in the soil for years. The bacteria need to be present in the soil BEFORE the grubs begin feeding to be most effective, as the disease can take months to kill established grubs. Beneficial Nematodes are microscopic, nonsegmented worms that occur naturally in soil all around the world. Steinernema carpocapsae and Steinernema feltiae prey on ants, termites and the larval and grub stages of various beetles, weevils, armyworms, cutworms, chafers, webworms, borers, maggots, fleas, fungus gnats (sciarid flies). Once they are released, the nematodes seek out host insects and enter their prey through body openings and emit an endo-toxin that results in death for the host insect within 48 hours. The nematodes reproduce and their offspring feed on the insect cadaver and emerge to seek out new hosts. Nematodes are easy to use. They are shipped in a formulation that you mix with water. The solution can be applied using a watering can; hose end, backpack, or pump sprayers; or through irrigation or misting systems. Always release early in the morning or late afternoon when temperatures are cooler. Generally, 1 vial of Beneficial Nematodes will effectively treat approximately 900 sq. ft. of conventional garden rows. Make releases every 3-6 weeks or until infestation subsides. Nematodes can be stored in the refrigerator (do not freeze!) for up to 2 months.