Where do you live? Seems unusual for zoysia to be in zone 6. Zoysia spreads so it will fill in bare spots. Crabgrass preventative should prevent crabgrass. Weed-B-Gon CCO will kill clover. Do you have zoysia in the front yard or another kind of grass there? If it's a cool season grass, you can plant seed in late August/early September. What does your bag of pre-emergent say about how long you must wait to plant seed after application (how many months)?

Weed b Gon Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis Killer is different from normal Weed b Gon, so look at the labels. Walmart should have it.

Since you're new to this, here's some general guidance...

Basics of Lawn Care

After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at seven houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct.

1. Watering
Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an inch in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds.

You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in El Paso your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, temperature, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week.

2. Mowing
Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush.

3. Fertilizing
Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it (unless you use organics in which case you may overdo it without fear of hurting anything).

At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide.

Next time you need a preemergent herbicide, get one that specializes in herbicide rather than one mixed with fertilizer. All that fertilizer is wasted (or worse) this time of year. Despite what the weekend TV commercials will tell you, your lawn should not be fertilized until late May. If you fertilize now it will need it again in May, so just skip the early spring feed. What is worse about early feeding is that it forces the grass plants to use up stored nutrients from their roots. Then if you don't feed in May you have a disastrous summer. I should modify my guidance with that tidbit.

Zoysia seeds and spreads very slowly. V-e-r-y slowly. If you have bare spots in April it might not fill in until the following April.

And where do you live?

Thank you both for the information. I'm in a suburb of St. Louis. There is a lot of zoysia in the surrounding neighborhoods. I've never been a fan of it due to the winter appearance. In my area in what was around the late 50's and early 60's considered a nicer neighborhood of brick ranches there is a lot of zoysia.

I spent some time last night looking at my grass the other yards in the neighborhood. I was wrong about my back yard, I have some zoysia but it isn't all zoysia. It's zoysia and other grass (I have no idea what). My front yard has very little zoysia. My neighbors all seem to have some zoysia mixed in with other things. One neighbor commented to me that the mix of grasses is a pain because it's very thick when you're mowing.

For clarification, what I used was the Scotts Turf Builder with Halts Crabgrass Preventer with Lawn Food. From looking at Scotts' information I should wait four months until I seed, unless I first put down Scotts Starter Food for New Grass Plus Weed Preventer. Does that sound right?

I'm not sure what the other grass is. I'll take some pictures tonight. Thanks.

One more question - is there a good way to get rid of zoysia? I hate, hate, hate it.

Once you put down Halts, you can't plant grass for awhile because it prevents grass seed from germinating as well as preventing crabgrass and othet weed seed from germinating. The Scott's starter has mesotrione (same substance as Tenacity) which prevents crabgrass and weed seed germination for a very short time (about a month) but allows grass seed to germinate. However, you shouldn't use it on zoysia. If you want to kill zoysia, you could plan to kill it, along with everything else growing, with Roundup in midsummer and plant a cool season grass in late August/early September. If you do that, water lightly each day after using Roundup to encourage weed seeds to germinate (the Halts may still be active so you may have to wait awhile for germination) and use Roundup again before seeding to kill the new weeds. Cut everything low and bag the clippings. After you plant seed, water lightly several times a day to keep the soil moist, gradually decreasing frequency and increasing the amount as the grass grows. You are in the transition zone, meaning both cool season and warm season grasses have problems. Here is a webpage from U of Missouri on turfgrass.

Thanks, and that link is terrific!

The keys to using halts or any other pre emergent are timing & repeated applications. If you miss an application, your "shield" will start to break down & let the weeds back in.