Drip from copper elbow
Adrienne Pratt
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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Adrienne Pratt
8 years agoRelated Discussions
drip irrigation with 1/2' copper pipe
Comments (3)hi rati, Nope. The factors that affect flow are diameter of pipe, length of the line, slope of line and type of material the pipe is made of. In a yard the lengths around the yard won't make much of a difference. Higher pressure helps the ability to have more irrigation outlet points or heads or emitters. Each outlet point robs the line of a little pressure, so there are only so many heads on a system with a certain pressure before you have to add zones. High pressure maximizes the number of heads per zone you can run. Flow also is used at each outlet and thus there are only so many heads you install before you use up the available flow. The emitters or heads are rated for gallons per hour for a given pressure. Add up all the head flows and make sure it is only about 3/4 of the flow you can deliver from the copper pipe. Measure the flow by filling up a five-gallon bucket and time the fill. Calculate gallons per hour or GPM. I would recommend 3/4" PVC mainline and 1/2 lateral with emitters connected. A 1" system is not much more expensive. Good Luck. (GL) Aloha...See MoreElbows, friction and pressure loss
Comments (5)The likelihood of enough solder being pushed into a joint to cause a restriction on the interior of the pipe is ZERO. If the extra valve is a full bore valve as required by code, then the insertion loss is ZERO. While is has often been argued in this forum that there is a substantial pressure loss to fittings, in reality that is seldom true. When computing line friction loss the "fitting insertion loss" is expressed as an equivalent length of straight pipe, by example, a ½" soldered copper 90deg elbow has a "Fitting Insertion loss" of one (1) foot of pipe, thus if we were to combine two 10 lengths of copper pipe with a 90deg elbow the resultant "total developed length" of the pipe would then be 20feet of pipe plus one foot for the elbow which would then give us a total developed length of 21feet. Now let us examine the fitting insertion losses for the sizes of pipe most commonly found in residential plumbing. ½"copper- 90deg elbow = 1ft, 45deg elbow = .5ft, Tee on the straight through run = 0ft, on the side inlet/outlet = 3feet. ¾"copper 90deg elbow = 2ft, 45deg elbow 2feet, Tee on the straight through run = 0feet, on the side inlet/outlet 3feet. 1" copper 90deg elbow =2.5feet, 45deg elbow = 1foot, Tee on the straight through run = 0feet, on the side inlet/outlet 4.5feet. The post does not say exactly how many elbows he has but for the sake of illustration let us examine a worst-case scenario of a dozen extra 1" elbows. A 1" 90deg elbow has a fitting insertion loss of 2.5 so a dozen elbows would have the same effect as having an additional 30 straight run of pipe. Assuming the line is sized correctly for the volume of flow the average Friction loss would be 0.096psi/ft therefore the dozen elbows would produce a friction loss of 30 x 0.096psi = 2.88psi loss. In the overall scheme of things a 2.88psi pressure loss would go totally unnoticed. In fact, most of the pressure gauges used for measuring domestic potable water systems are calibrated to a +/- 3psi. So let us cut to the bottom line. If you are experiencing a pressure loss through you water treatment equipment, the problem is without a doubt resulting from a problem in the treatment equipment, not the piping to and from the unit....See MorePEX question about joints and elbows
Comments (24)Jake- here’s the photo. Your last comments about how to correct did not show up in my feed before the plumber came back. Not sure what that was about except we had horrible internet service the last few days. I did ask to avoid elbow so there would not be a restriction beyond what the PEX already does coming from copper line. So I missed your point about that completely. I was just going from what I read on other forums. He’s added some pre-made supports inside the holes in the wood so the tube isn’t moving back and forth on the wood. And added some tape as well. We are able to get to this pretty easily from the back side of the wall just taking off sheetrock. The valve is installed correctly. And I have not corrected the wires yet on that box. There appears to be enough slack to fix in place. I Also need to check to see if I need a 2x4 below that wiring. Anybody know?...See MoreDrip Drip Drip Drip ------------Drip!
Comments (32)Heh, I had the.. fortune.. of having my well bladder chain fail just as the cold set was coming in. Age related thing, not cold related. Not cheap... but today I can happily say I know darn well that my water is 100% checked from well pipe to well house to all the inside water- and all the various entry points... and everything safe without having to do drips. And apparently what is icky to me crawlspace under the house is "really nice" in comparison to some- I have indoor access to a proper basement hole before the "higher clearance than many" and "dryer than most" crawlspace, lol. And there's a couple hardwired lightbulbs to boot!...See MoreKathy McLain
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