We also have only a 30" opening for a range hood. We purchased our new one last December and yipee it's being installed this week. We shopped around and finally purchased a stainless hood from Kobe (a japanese company). Good quality, reasonably priced - blower is included with the hood rather than most other companies where you have to buy the blower separate if you want an 18" tall and 24" deep hood. I've linked the one we purchased below. We'll be mounting ours undercabinet (FIL is a GC and will be building the framework to support it) but it does mount as a wall mount (just needs the stainless steel chimney). We did hook it up after we purchased it to make sure it worked and can say it's very quiet and very powerful. The hood will be going over a Wolf 30" all gas rnage. Here is a link that might be useful: Kobe range hood

I'd like to see the adjoining areas too. I'm thinking like remodelfla -- you would be better off moving the W/D and creating a galley kitchen that might have some extra storage on the long hall wall. If moving the water supply and drains is a problem (realize Florida might have concrete slabs like we do), then I would put the sink on that W/D walland the range would still be on the peninsula side, but look at a glass hood. I've seen plenty that look good over a peninsula. I know Candice Olsen has done one or more. I think the bigger issue is how that space works for you, and with 2 windows and 3 doorways in a small space, you have a better foyer than kitchen right now. It will function better if you can isolate the cooking tasks from the laundry (do you really want dryer lint where you are cooking anyway?). That looks like a galley with a hallway laundry pair either under the window or stacked to one side of the window. Assuming you need the three passage ways, I would consider keeping one large window and possibly closing up one or changing it to transom or backsplash windows. That gets involved in exterior factors and may or may not work for design, budget or other reasons, but I'd at least ask yourself those kind of questions now. Make sure you have thought about where the light comes from and how it shines into the kitchen -- now and with harsher angles in the winter. You may have views and light you cannot part with, but you could also have some harsh glare and heat. Good luck with your project and move.

I had the one that looks like the image below - two solid grates. The oven was standard, not convection. These are purchases I made about six years ago now. I loved it because it was beautiful, the oven was amazingly consistent for gas, the broiler worked very well, and the range top was gorgeous and actually simmered well for me. A low simmer is tough to achieve on most gas ranges. It was easy to clean and maintain, and it was a fantastic choice. The range hood over it was a Kenmore under-cabinet hood, a scratch and dent return that I got for a song at Sears (the scratch was on the side and could not be seen once installed). This was in my pre-gardenweb days; I wasn't as knowledgeable then as I am now in terms of BTUs and CFM. I don't know the BTU of the range, and I'm uncertain about the CFM of the hood, but it was a Proline. I absolutely did not have MUA, but then, I lived in a drafty beach cottage... and I highly doubt it was over 450 CFM. I think I paid $80 for it instead of $300 or something like that.

"We have 9 foot ceilings, so they didn’t take them to the ceiling because they said it would make them tall and skinny..." Really? I call BS. Here are my cabinets to the ceiling with 9 foot ceilings. I am beyond happy that my cabs go to the ceiling, eliminating the need to dust above them. My kitchen looks larger and brighter without the dark shadows above the cabs, too. My cabs are custom so we were able to spec 46" uppers with 8" crown but you can go with 42" tall uppers and 12" crown. I asked but you didn't answer: is there a reason why you haven't considered moving the fridge to the sink wall? That would give you wider aisles and a larger island, plus more room around your range and a better meal prep flow of fridge to sink to counter to range. I mocked up how that might look. You can use your existing fridge (that saves $$) and pull the base cabs out to create 30" deep counters, which will make your full size fridge look like a counter depth model. I decreased the depth of the cabs on the opposite side of the kitchen to 12" deep for a full run of pantry cabs. You may be able to eliminate more uppers in your kitchen with the additional storage the pantry cabs provide, which means that you could make the window over the sink even wider. Here's how that might look in your kitchen. I didn't draw it up this way but your one window would become either 2 slider windows or 2 single hung windows or, as they did in the above kitchen, 3 single hung windows. I shifted the island away from the sink counter, giving you 45" aisle between counters (42" between fridge door and counter) and 42" aisles between pantry cabs and island (assuming that your kitchen is 13'/156" wide). That also gives you more room around your range so a wider range and hood would look more in scale. That said, I agree with others: an oversized hood isn't the right fit for your kitchen. I also think it's an odd choice to spend so much $$$ on a very detailed, oversized hood over a 30" range. I think it will look like you ran out of money half way through the remodel so all you could afford was a 30" range, not the 36" pro style range you had intended to get. And definitely spend the money to upgrade to drawer bases. That's a splurge that you will never regret. Ever.