>>> Our AC died two days ago. I am replacing the AC unit this weekend. I have 3.5 TON unit. The best quote I got is $2200 for new 3.5 TON unit (converting to 410a), new coil, new pipes (from teh coil to the unit), some duct work, 5 years warranty on the unit and 2 on labor.... Mick: Where do you live? $2200 for a 3.5t unit is a decent price for a low-end system. What brand and model # did they quote? It's hard to compare prices unless you are positive it is apples-apples and then even regional pricing are different (don't ask me how that's fair). Tarek: The quote above for ~$2400 is around what I was getting quoted this year to replace the coil in my 2.5t gas/electric packaged unit located on the roof. Replacement units ran anywhere from mid $3k to $10k for approximately the same level systems (Ranging from 3-3.5ton, 13-15seer, and 45-70k btuh on heating input). The Home Warranty can sometimes screw over the homeowner, other times not as bad. Sometimes the contractors are held (read: encouraged) to keep costs very low to keep business coming their way. So they are paid pennies for the covered part of the installation and they must recoup the cost somewhere. So it comes out in higher non-covered charges for installation.

Yeah that's R22 and while that is a builder grade Trane unit that is probably out of warranty by now... typically those were sold with 5 year parts warranty. Because R22 Freon was already obsolete by 2013. With that said, this condenser 'could' last another 10 years, provided the coil repair work is done appropriately. The replacement coil needs to be a coil suitable for R22 / any coil can be retro fitted to work, but skill is required in choosing the coil. Typically home warranty companies are known for tom foolery. If the condenser was a dry condenser (nitrogen gas) it would say it was on the data plate in some manner. That's the down side in anything Trane or American Standard because they were one of the last manufacture's to switch over to R410a refrigerant. The R22 conundrum only effects you if there is a leak... otherwise it doesn't matter much. While the cost for it will only go up now that production has ceased, it's serviceable life is still around another 10 years or so. Without United Technologies Corporation heavy investment in R410a AC equipment development we would be no where near where we are today. R410a equipment has been available now for almost 20 years if you can imagine that.

Does this happen sometimes or all the time? Depending on the size of unit,the type of metering device, the outside temperature, does it have a receiver, what temperature you have the unit set at,it can take up to 10 minutes to totally equalize. I personally don't like the answer they gave you. Perhaps they didn't feel like explaining the scenario's. Just because it's cooling doesn't necessarily mean there's no air in the system. With a cap tube metering device that would hold true for the most part. If there is air in there, you can bet you will know in short order because you will have a burn out or, as it gets consistently hotter, you will notice less cooling. If they properly evacuated the system and added filter/dryers I wouldn't be concerned.

Not much you can do to prevent a leak in the indoor coil except reduce the amount of corrosives in the home. A lot of fumes from cleaners such as chlorox and ammonia may lead to premature corrosion on coils. I noticed years ago that the use of hair sprays and such during the winter would seem to accelerate rusting of the heat exchangers in some homes with standing pilot furnaces. Using chlorox in some drains is a no-no and will cause rapid rusting/corrosion. Vinegar is milder and less damaging in my opinion. Never add any acidic chemical directly into the pan of the coil. There's quite a list of things checked during a "tuneup", which is an unusual name for it. A lot of the checking is visual- looking for signs of corroded connections, burnt or wires getting overheated, mold in the plenum or duct (system not cooling properly), insulation on the refrigerant lines and drains, rusted pans, leaky ducts, vent pipes clear and installed correctly, drain is clean and clear, blowers and coils (and it's pan) clean, the outdoor coil (condensor) clean, motors oiled, freon psi normal per the proper charging method for that system, air split within range, thermostat accurate, return sealed, electrical breakers and wires the proper size and aren't running too warm, no buildup of leaves in the outdoor unit, no distributor tubes touching which can rub together and cause a future leak or wires rubbing and getting ready to wear thru and cause a short. A quick inspection of the ducting, mainly at the plenum is a good idea. If molds are present at the plenum, it is usually a sign that the system is not operating properly (low on freon, low air split ect.) and throwing off moisture instead of removing it. If this persists, mold will develope throughout the ducting and all the way to the registers. The house will feel damp or warm even at comfort temperatures of 75-77 degrees. A check of the humidity and wet bulb temps if the system has been operating normally helps evaluate possible problems. There's actually more and this seems like a whole day project, but actually an experienced tech does these visual inspections in a short time. Once any corrections are made (if any) the same tech should be the one to come back every year, as he knows your system. I wash every outdoor coil, regardless if it looks clean or not, because I have been suprised before from the ones that look clean but are not. Of course all of the controls should be checked, and any visual signs of oil on the freon lines or fittings checked to see if there is a leak and repaired. The proccesses for checking heat pumps, cooling only and gas furnaces are a little different, but at the same time similar. If you have a gas furnace, I always give it a quick look for anything that is unsafe with it or anything applicable to it's proper and safe operation and advise the customer of any corrections needed or to have it looked at before winter use. Some people think they don't get their monies worth when the tech isn't there for a long time, but a well installed and maintained system doesn't take as long to check over as compared to a system that has been neglected or installed poorly. Prices are quite different in all areas and range from $50.00 to as much as $170.00. It's best to stay away (in my experience) from the $19.95 specials- no company can survive with that price and must sell something to make up the difference. Phew! I feel like I just wrote a book! :)