I haven't changed the soil since I brought it, whenever I give it water, it comes out immediately from the holes at the bottom of the pot. However, dunno if the soil is light fast draining as I'm quite new to taking care of house plants (this is my 2nd houseplant, 1st peace lily died from overwatering).

That's really good to know that indoors cold shouldn't be an issue. I've brought my plant back inside after just 3hrs it being outside the brown on the leaves increased. Hopefully this brown leaf problem goes away as I've placed it in a new location indoors, next to a west south facing window. I'm not sure if they require the light from a particular facing window, and whether the window needs to be open/closed?

Looks healthy! the brown lesions are a form of pithum, blight. It is from excessive moisture, on the leaf tips. Keep the leaves dry and water only when the plant starts to droop. Use a free draining peat/perlite mixture and dont mist, even if it would like more humidity. Try getting some granular fertilizer and you can always spray plants with potassium to encourage flowering and healthy leaves, tho not on this one until its healthy again. :) Try to find a foliar fungicide.

I notice you keep a tray of pebbles, this really does not help them much, and probably is what is causing your leaf blight.......... Dont set it on the radiator / Humidifier either this is all too much moisture. They must adapt to the environment of the home, hence why we call them houseplants. It will be fine as long as you mist it once and awhile. In the meantime, keep it dry and put a fan on it. Look for a fungicide.

Thankyou mat68046, very helpful tips! I've now removed the tray and just sat the pot like that on a table. My misting habit stemmed from this link (http://www.exoticrainforest.com/Spathiphyllum%20Clevelandii%20%20pc.htm) that someone posted on a peace lily forum elsewhere. I'll try to keep it dry for a week and see how it fares.

mat68046- Are these the correct fungicide to use?

or

If it says "leaf spot" then yes it should work, along with less moisture and humidity. Sure they like high humidity and lots of water is fine, in fact in nature and at the nursery they always have the bottom leaves rotting away like this, and we spray with a fungicide, but since its on the upper leaf edges you must cut back moisture on the leaves.

A fan and warm dry air would work wonders as well bring it in at night when the air is saturated

http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/fungal-spots/leaf-spot-shade.aspx

Maybe go with the first one, the other may be too strong on this delicate new growth....but either will work, guess it depends on if your an eco type person or not

He is right, brown leaf tips are a sign of overwatering as well as fungal infecitno because where they are grown they are watered from the top by irrigation so water both sits on the leaves and in the soil. A good plan is to change the media to peat moss/perlite and keep the leaves dry with a fan but the soil slightly moist.

Mat - I think there should be quite a few qualifications accompanying your post. Brown leaf tips or margins are rarely indicative of the fungaluglies and almost always an indication of a root issue. When something limits the roots' ability to move water efficiently, the plant's most distal parts are the first to suffer ..... and the most distal parts are leaf tips and margins. Most fungal leaf diseases start out as infected spots, and the spots usually have a ring around them that is a different color than the center of the spot - yellow and tan are common colors on the perimeter of the infection.

Changing the soil to peat and perlite can't be said to be better or worse unless there's a basis for comparison. Compared to topsoil, it would be good. Compared to a free-draining, well-aerated mix ..... not so good.

IF there was a fungal infection in play, the advice to keep the soil slightly moist and the leaves dry with a fan is a good choice, and the fan helps in other ways, too. It can stimulate lignin production, which makes the plant sturdier, it encourages back-budding, and it helps to keep pest populations at lower levels; but, if the air is dry and there is no fungal infection, a fan might be counter-productive - especially in cases where efficient root function is questionable.

Al

Indeed we could both be right. Yes I know brown leaf tips are a sign of overwhatering g but with half the leaf rotted and brown I would feel compelled to spray it.

It would be nice if there was room for both POVs to be considered correct, but when you say disease (fungus) and I say cultural issues, there's not a lot of room for concordance. A fungal infection of the already dead tissue is assured as long as there is moisture there (because fungi are a primary player in dead tissue break-down), but the pictures are completely inconsistent with a fungal infection being causal.

I hope you have a good weekend.

Al

I used to also believe adding a bunch of perlite to the mix would equal a fast draining mix. However, the mix still holds on to just as much water and doesn't dry out fast enough.

If you want to look into real fast draining mixes that work, look into the gritty mix or the 5:1:1 mix.

There seems to be some contradicting posts going on here. But I will say, absolutely listen to Al's advice. He's helped me through many situations in the past and if you do as your told, you will also get through it. I'm not saying anyone else is wrong, but sometimes the old school mentality can hold you back even if your plants seem to be doing well.

That is all.

But, you are telling me this leave is from root rot?

It is from water siting on the leaves and it honestly seems fungal. This is what they mean by "overwatering" like rain type water from above not just water in the medium. Im not trying to be a know it all either, im just trying to figure this out for myself because china dolls are also prone to blight and rust like this.

I don't really want people to follow my advice blindly, no matter how confident I might be about my offerings. I know a lot of people roll their eyes at the length and detail of my posts, but I do that so others get enough information/understanding that they can reason through their problems or my observations right along with me. My own reasoning is, anyone can flit from thread to thread with a few instructional words for every problem, but it's the posts that offer understanding that are most helpful. If someone tells me what to do to solve a problem, I prefer to know first that the person knows what he's talking about, and second, WHY the solution/observation/advice .... is judicious as opposed to ill considered. How we qualify (explain) our offerings in the light of potential variables is the best way to illustrate a command of the topic at hand. For many, the less information they supply with advice/observations/solutions the lower the potential that there will be disagreement with their offerings. In a perfect world, we'd all be secure in what we know and be operating within the limits of our knowledge so no one would have reason to disagree. Since that never happens in forum settings, it's usually those that closely guard their credibility that are perceived as reliable sources of information. That brings us in a full circle to the fact that credibility grows from the habit of limiting what we say to that which we actually DO know.

What I just said was prompted by Dave's suggestion to 'do as you're told' (not my conversation with Mat). I'm thinking Dave probably didn't really mean it as it might be taken, because I know a little about Dave and even he questions my advice so he has a better understanding of the WHY part ..... and that's the way it should be. I don't mind it when what I say is questioned because in the end I'm hoping my reply sheds additional light on whatever topic we're discussing.

I guess I would hope that others might listen to and consider what I say, then do what they wish. I always put posts together so those other than the person I'm directly addressing might gain something from it. I never knew how well that actually works until Houzz took over GW and the notification of REALLY old posts that readers 'liked' appear in my mailbox. I'm betting many others are experiencing the same thing.

Al

Matt - that leaf is the result of something calamitous that occurred suddenly - not from root rot or a fungal infection. I'm just not seeing that it might be rust, something fungal, or any other disease. What I said several posts above was in direct reply to your post immediately above mine and not meant to be taken as a diagnosis of root rot. If it was fungal, the affected tissues would be in various stages of affectation, representing advancement of the infection, but the affected tissues are uniform in affectation - completely atypical of fungal infections.Take care.

Al

Yes, I didn't mean you have to do as your told. I meant it as more of a "ollow suggestions and be open minded so you can learn and understand. but I definitely didn't mean for it to come off in that tone. My apologies.

Al, you k is I've asked you a million questions. That's not because I ever question what you say, it's all because I like to learn. And you're great at that.

i only commented because there were two contradicting posts that were happening simultaneously.

there was some slightly misguided advice happening and I don't think it would do much good to the OP.

I understood your meaning fine, Dave - no problem there - just wanted to be sure others didn't take it wrong.

I hope everyone has a good weekend. Mine started a day early and I'm enjoying it.

Al

Understandable. I do realize how it may have come off. Wasn't my intention and I should have re read before posting.

So AL could you explain how overwatering from below only could cause brown leaves? Is it a water on leaves thing? Im confused. Are they just saturated and get damaged like if it sits on one spot of the leaf too long? There has to be some fungi at play here breaking down the organic matter, after the fact at least. Hopefully this will help op understand as well.

I believe he means the soil was over watered to the point where the feeder roots start to die and can no longer take up water, thus the leaves start to brown and die back.

It doesn't have anything to do with water on the leaves, therefore no fungus.

When root function is impaired by lack of oxygen, over-watering or soil compaction, it inhibits the plant's ability to move water because water uptake is an energy-driven process that needs oxygen to burn the food that creates the energy to drive the process. A high level of dissolved solids (usually mineral salts) can also impact the process of water absorption and cause the same drought stress symptoms caused by poor root function/health; and obviously, a lack of water causes the same type of symptoms. The inability to move enough water from roots to distal plant parts creates drought stress (even if the soil is saturated) and is generally made manifest by symptoms first appearing in plant parts most distal to the roots, which would be leaf tips and margins. This case lacks the signature look of plants that suffer from any significant impairment of root function, so I don't suspect the cause of the death of significant amounts of leaf tissue is due to a root-related condition.

You already know why I don't think it's disease-related either, because it doesn't show the incrementation that would be typical of disease progression. The uniformity of the symptom across a considerable amount of tissue suggests a sudden cultural change serious enough to kill tissue. The damage looks very typical of chill injury, but over-heating of the tissue or sunburn can't be eliminated entirely.

Onset of fungal activity in the damaged tissue is a given, as long as there is moisture enough for the spores to incubate and support viability, but I wouldn't look at those types of fungi as a threat that needs to be or should be treated. Leaves of in situ trees are damaged mechanically by wind and other incidents, chomped on by insects & herbivores, and play host to exactly the same types of fungus that will make the damaged tissue their host, but the fungal activity that breaks down dead tissue isn't typically a threat to the organism.

If it was my plant, I'd make sure I'm watering/fertilizing correctly, the plant is in appropriate light, and just wait for the plant to sort things out. While I use fungicides all the time, both as prophylactics and fixatives, it wouldn't have crossed my mind to treat this plant wish a fungicide, simply because I don't think it's necessary.

YMMV, and that's ok by me. Thanks for being polite, even though we're on opposite sides of the fence on this one.

Al

Im just curious about it . And thanks for the explanation. We get spaths like that all the time at the nursery, and it really does look like pithium blight. In fact im gonna treat my china doll plant because the new growth and some leaves here and there are black/brown not only on edges but middle of leaf. But its also very healthy and im very ocd about it. Im gonna use captan powder on it.

OK. Wishing you well.

Al

Firstly, I just want to say I absolutely appreciate everyone’s
posts on this forum and thankyou for they have really expanded my knowledge and aided me, as a
matter of fact I’ve my first flower blooming (well it’s about to :))!!

Since my last post (19 Mar) I’ve done the following

Matt- I’ve taken on your suggestion to remove the humidity
tray and stop misting the leaves. However, it’s too cold for me to bear the fan
air hence I haven’t quite tried this method to counter against any fungal
infection that might be present.

Tapla – according to your suggested “what would I do” post I’ve
done the following:

1) Check water: I’m bit reluctant to entirely depend on the
stick to let me know if it needs watering as considering they grow in hot humid
parts of rainforest, I feel like they need watering once a week at least even
if the soil is already moist (which it is in my case whenever I check).

2) Yep I always flush it with a good volume of water (1 2L
jug), some of it goes into washing the dust from the leaves

3) Recently (since last post) I’ve followed B (btw thankyou
for posting diagrams, very helpful!) and have repeated till no water exited pot
(haven’t tried wick method yet) and left outside in shade for further drainage

4) See below image for the roots (might need to zoom in to the holes), not
yet confident with taking the plant out of the pot to check for root damage (I prob
need to watch more YouTube videos to see how it’s done without damaging
anything)

Dave – Thank you for your sharing your experience with
perlite to the mix, I admit I was a bit confused to Matt (“peat moss/ perlite”)
suggestion vs Tapla (“free-draining, well aerated”). As a result, I’ve haven’t yet
brought any till I do some more research.

Overall, I think my plant is looking much better (save for a
few leaves), although I feel it might need some fertiliser as the leaves are
not dark green and shiny. From above post I gathered I need to look into “granular
fertilizer and you can always spray plants with potassium to encourage
flowering and healthy leaves”, if anyone has particular brands that work well
with their peace lily I’d be happy to know about them?

P.S. Also, I haven’t yet brought the fungicide due to
conflicting posts.

Update (30 Mar) pics of plant after 1wk and 3days (since 19 Mar):

NOTE: during the 1wk and 3 days the plant has been staying in my bedroom, well away from the window and since its always dark, I've fixed a lamp on it (as shown in the below pic), since PL are known to like bright light. It is switched on during the day as long as the suns out and during the night I turn it off to give it a natural outdoor treatment, having a solar electricity system I'm not too concern bout the electricity bill

1) You can trust the stick, and there's a fall back plan - if the plant wilts (not the end of the world if you catch it at the onset or soon after), you waited to long to water.

From above post I gathered I need to look into “granular
fertilizer and you can always spray plants with potassium to encourage
flowering and healthy leaves”, if anyone has particular brands that work well
with their peace lily I’d be happy to know about them? 'Granular fertilizer' covers a lot of territory. The fertilizer that gives you the most control over what your plant gets and when it gets it will be a water soluble synthetic fertilizer. If you get a good one and couple it with a soil you can water correctly, fertilizing is monkey easy. I highly recommend Dyna-Gro's Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 for a variety of reasons. Ask if you're curious. Also, please don't get in the habit of thinking that your plants will benefit from a little extra this or that nutrient. It won't. Spraying compounds with potassium, magnesium (Epsom salts) or any other individual nutrient is a practice far more likely to be limiting than beneficial. People think that aquarium water is automatically good for plants because it has nitrogen and some other nutrients in it, but there is NO substitute for a well-considered nutritional plan that supplies all the nutrients at the right ratio. If your plants are already getting exactly what they need, messing up the ratios of nutrients in the soil solution can only be limiting, and ANY nutrient in the soil solution in excess has only the potential to limit. You can make your fertilizing very easy to stay on top of, or impossible - depending on your approach.

Al

Hmm guess it won't hurt if I follow the stick approach.

Thankyou for your recommendation, I'll try to find Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro 9-3-6 (water soluble synthetic fertiliser) at my local warehouse. Do I just couple it with any fast draining soil mix, perphaps like the 5:1:1 Dave suggested?

Haha I was most certainly thinking like that (extra this or that might benefit my plant), your reasoning has me convinced to just sticking to fertilizing for now, no spraying.

1 You SHOULD try the mix because otherwise roots can rot. Im gonna swtich to it lately ive lost plants to root rot. You just gotta check it like everyday, be careful. Dried out 100% plant is dead. This stuff will dry out fast.

You can go higher numbers? i am gonna keep fertilizing with higher nitrogen i got liquid micrale grow thats like 24% nitrogen (china dolls love it) Hoping to see some good growth out of this thing this summer but, not too much? Dont want stretching

Al, you think thats too high?

Oops - No, it's not too high. The NPK %s have nothing to do with the concentrations you'll be applying if you follow packaging directions. IOW, 24-8-16 is twice as concentrated as 12-4-8, but following package directions yields a solution of the same concentration and ratio of nutrients. The only issue with the MG 24-8-16 is, it lacks Ca, Mg, and some of the micronutrients ....... and it gets all of it's N from Urea (or maybe a small % of N from ammoniacal sources) which means growth will be coarser (bigger leaves and longer internodes).

Al

Okay al. It says 1 tablespoon per gallon for outdoor plants, my china doll is a ornamental houseplant ovbiously. It says 1/2 teaspoon for houseplants and 1 tbsp for outdoor. I just gave it the 1/2 teaspoon on the 28th. Also, As far as light for this thing, I remember the outside shade always being about 3,500-4,000 ftc. Now my meter is reading 6,000 ftc in the shade on my patio. Is that accurate? Its a north facing patio as well. I know these plants arent picky about light they will grow from deep shade to full sun and anywhere in between provided they are healthy, but i want to make sure that i dont kill this one it was a 28 dollar plant the only one have right now and my favorite since childhood. look at this. http://mrec.ifas.ufl.edu/Foliage/folnotes/chinadol.htm

Im assuming they mean indoors light ^ coz i have seen these trees grown in florida under 1. Plastic greenhouse 2. 73% shadehouse 3. 63% shade 4. Full sun

Sky, us three (dave and AL myself) are pretty good at what we have for a hobby!!! I know we sound crazy to casual hobbyist, but seriously I would take his advice, overwatering IS the diagnosis from AL, and i concur, tho i think its fungal blight he does not that does not change the problem, thus moving it into a peat based well draining medium could be the BEST thing to do for it.....

Hi Everyone :), after much research and youtubing I've finally repotted my PL (admittedly i was absolutely petrified to do this as I've never bare rooted a plant and potted into a mixture made by myself (AL 5:1:1 mix: 5 part Bark, 1 part Perlite, 1 part peat)). I couldn't prolong it further for the pot got knocked over many times and I lost much of the soil.

My repotting procedure:

1. prepared the 5:1:1 mix with garden lime + epsom salt and water to moisture it and left it covered with clingwrap for 2 weeks

2. Today, in 5min (so the roots don't get exposed for too long), i washed away the old soil and placed it in its new pot making sure the roots were wet during the process.

3. while placing in the new mix i pressed firmly down to make sure to eliminate any big air pockets, and every now and then shake the pot to help it settle (i didn't use the chopsticks to makes sure the soil went between the roots as it was too difficult to get the roots to stay in place)

4. Next, i immediately watered the plant and placed it on a glass bowl a little elevated so any excess water can drain as can be seen by the below pics.

The bulb is a 5w 285 lumens cool daylight (6500K) CFL

Now it seems to be drastically wilting which has gotten me really worried as i just repotted it.

My 2 main questions are; have I repotted correctly and is the environment i placed them in alright? (it is bugging me that i might have missed a step in my procedure...really want my PL to stay alive)

Sounds ok except for the Epsom salts. Where did that come from? Did you use lime that didn't have a Mg component?

Al

Hi Sky,

Pls. try to calm down a bit first & foremost. We know you want the best for your plants, but they aren't delicate or fragile plants you seem to feel they are. They can be moved in out of pots, trimmed, divided & repotted w/ no harm; I don't do it w/ wet roots & I take my sweet time.

These plants don't really light bright as you seem to think, they like bright, but INDIRECT light, I'd take the light off of them, it's too much. I feel that pot is too deep for the plants unless you can say the roots took up that ENTIRE height of that pot.

What step do you think you've already missed? This isn't half as complicated as you seem to be making it.

Wilting is a normal response to being repotted, it should perk up in a day or 2. Is this the first plant you've had?

Sorry Mat, but checking plants everyday is a bit much. I work full time, know my plants & my mixes; a quick look a couple of times a week CAN be plenty.

Encouraging such frequent hands-on nurture seems way too much for many people & just makes them nervous, anxious, OCD type gardeners, which (in my opinion), rather defeats the point of gardening (enjoying the plants & relaxing). It also neglects to teach that simple time & patience are prime ingredients of gardening, just as important as light & water.

Mat: about the overwatering: I put in in much simpler terms that Al, but here's how I understand it.

Continuing to water soil that's already moist impedes the roots from taking in oxygen, 'cause they & the soil are too wet do so. So it suffocates the plant by depriving it of oxygen & drowns it by keeping it too moist & never letting it dry out a bit.

(IME) This plant didn't need the cling wrap at all, I wouldn't do that again. Pressing down the mix is also not something I'd do, can pack mix it too tightly, next time, just bang the pot against the table a time or 3 to settle any air pockets.

Most importantly, now you've got to give it time to adjust & settle.

I agree, no need for panic. Any bit of root disturbance with a lot of leaf area will always produce a bit of initial droop. With the weather you've been getting just keep the humidity up and make sure it doesn't sit in any hot spots as the sum moves around. The lights are really unnecessary, especially this time of year. Unless you have the plant in a particularly dark room I wouldn't worry about it.

After reading all the responses I'm feeling quite relieved, thankyou guys <3...it's gone from a fun gardening ride to something very stressful, so any tips/suggestions are deeply appreciated.

Since my last post (before I read all the comments) I measured the pH of the mix and found it to be around 8 (I use tap water (pH about 7 and I let it sit for a night) for watering the plant and rain water to mist). I immediately diluted some vinegar and watered my PL again till the pH decreased <7. I'm not sure if it made a difference, however today when I woke up and examined it, I noticed that although the leaves were not perky, it didn't seem to have wilted further.

Tapla - You're right I used a lime that didn't have a Mg component so added Epsom salt which contains magnesium sulphate.

Karen- if I take the light off them, I'm afraid they may not be able to photosynthesise properly as the room is very dark (since it's summer here, it's too hot to open the blinds and allow some sunlight through). I've chosen the lowest wattage (5w) CFL bulb I could find in store, I usually use something higher (12w-685lumens).

In terms of the pot being too deep for the plant, I agree. When repotting the peace lily, the longest root was between 1/2 to 3/4 of the pot height. I read somewhere here on the garden forums that if the mix is well aerated (coarse, fast draining) then pot size doesn't matter I think.??? Really unsure here :/

The step I think I missed is the actual placement of the plant into the new pot, since I was trying to work quickly (at the same time being gentle), my roots are a bit flimsy. After watering when I tilt my pot like the pictures shown in the earlier post by Tapla, I find the plant moves slightly out of position, so when I'm finish it's kinda leaning in one direction. I hoping after some time the roots get stronge enough to anchor themselves onto the mix, but this is where I'm worried. Since it's not so firmly planted that you can hold it by the stems and it won't come out, would it be possible the roots are getting too much air?

This is my first plant, so I'm taking it all as a learning experience and trying not to worry if it can't make it in the end.

Tropicbreezent- I've attempted at making a humidity tent out of cling wrap and some bendable wire, however I don't think it's doing much as the hydrometer next to it reads 34-40% (during the day, at night its 50-68%). I think this is because during the day we have the air con switch on whereas at night we switch it off.

I've watered my PL once again today (I'm planning to do it every day till it settles). When I water, most of it gets drained out, so I'm thinking this watering schedule should be okay...hopefully no root rot. I've also covered the top of the pot with cling wrap (yeah I think I might ave gone a little overboard with it haha). My reasoning for doing this is because I noticed/read that the soil drys from top to bottom and with a coarse mix (5:1:1) this usually means the bark at the top drys out much faster than the mix around the roots. This means the dry bark would make it difficult to transfer oxygen to the roots (my understanding ??)....so by placing the plastic on top of the mix I'm hoping to retain the moisture this way till the next watering.

Relative humidity means the amount of moisture in air at a given temperature compared to the maximum water holding capacity of that air at that temperature. So as temperature goes up air is capable holding more water. If the actual amount of water in the air remains the same, when the temperature rises then the relative humidity is lower. That's the difference you're seeing between day and night, it's a function of the change in temperature.

Drying bark has gaps between it which allows air to move through, it's not a problem on the surface. When you water the soil the air gets pushed down and out. As the water drains down out of the pot fresh air is drawn back down through the soil from the top. That keeps the soil well aerated and your plant happy.

Ovbiously karen, you and al seem to think im a complete idiot. That after 20 years of raising plants, and working at garden centers, and traveling to florida twice to live and work around tree farms, somehow i still dont know how to water a plant properly..... You two dont raise radermachera, and don't understand how delicate they are. In fact if i told you to go buy one, it wouldnt last half a year for you. A few hours of being too dry outside in the heat and wind in summertime, and it wilts to the point of lower leaves completely lost. Repot on a cool cloudy spring day, gets rained on for a few days, later, bam, root rot sets in and the plant is lost. Please dont treat us like we are morons.

I'm not sure where that came from or what set you off, but I've kept China Doll trees for a couple of years in a pot w/o drainage and even chopped it back twice ..... in fact, I posted the work as (I think) incidental to other posts. They're easy trees for me - even in Michigan. I gave them away because I'm more interested in trees better suited to bonsai.

Al

Heyy everyone :), back again, having trouble attaining a suitable fertiliser for my peacelily. I know I need one in the ratio 3-1-2 NPK however, dyna foliage pro cannot be shipped to Australia. Unfortunately local stores dont have any alternatives of that product so I'm trying to make do with what they do have. I want to avoid buying bottles of fertiliser and mixing to get the right proportions.

I've found this one today in the store, it has NPK ratio: 3.1 - 0.6 - 2

would a teaspoon of this diluted in 4L of water be okay for my peacelily?

Side Note: PL hasn't grown much from the day of repotting (has been over 2months), i know its because I haven't given it any fertiliser/nutrients apart from Epsom salt since then. I'm just happy it seems to be still alive, hopefully with the correct fertiliser it can blossom again.

You do know that fertilizers with a 12-4-8 or 24-8-16 are 3:1:2 ratios - yes?

Al

I think you're doing too much to the plant. Cling wrap, PH adjustment, fertilizer. Overkill in my opinion.

The keys to this plant are an appropriate mix, appropriate size pot (yours is too deep, keeping things too wet, needs to be faster draining) & correct watering. Learning this plant's watering can take a while, did for me.

If i were you, I'd quit everything else, but move to a fast draining mix, a shallower pot & water less frequently.

I have no idea how you think we 'd be able to assess this:

"would a teaspoon of this diluted in 4L of water be okay for my peacelily?"

When using any chemicals, pls FOLLOW PACKAGE DIRECTIONS, DO NOT IMPROVISE W/ THIS. If anything, make it even more dilute than the instructions. I wouldn't fertilize this yet, I'd work on its other issues.

AI - I do know those fertiliser are a 3-1-2 ratio and unfortunately we don't have any of them here

Karen - lol I only kept up with the cling wrap, pH thing for a week then stopped.

I already have it in a fast draining mix (5:1:1) and I know I have the watering down as there are no more browning edges on my leaves and it seems to be quite perky these days.

If you can see from the images posted above, the fertiliser doesn't give specific direction of how much quantity should be used, which was y I was asking.

i guess I'm just going to experiment with it and see how it goes :)

I've never seen fertilizer sold w/out some kind of dosage instruction. I'd Call or Email the manufacturer (see pkg for addy), or perhaps contact the Vendor & ask for help.

Sky High, those fertilisers are meant to be applied during watering with a garden hose. You just attach a garden hose to the special fitting on top of the container and then turn on the tap. Fertiliser is drawn into the water stream and mixed as it goes through. That's why they don't give mixing amounts, it works itself out automatically. If you don't have the special fitting for the top then looks like you bought the refill container.

But I wouldn't worry too much with the fertiliser. The difference between the recommended ratio and the one you bought is negligible when it's watered down and applied to the soil. There's already minerals in the soil so what ever you use the 'numbers' will end up different anyway.

The plants needs to adjust and settle itself in. There's a lot going on under the soil even if you see very little happening above. Once that's okay you'll see more happening with the top of the plant.