Crop Rotation discussions - is it necessary and how do you do it

Dave

I rotate by plant family. A balanced, friable, healthy soil will support any crop, at any time. In my experience rotating by crop type is negligible. Any needs for a specific crop can easily be amended, but disease (the primary reason for rotation in the home garden,) once established, is not easily eradicated.

Besides, rotation by plant family also avoids problems with single-crop nutrient depletion.

Thanks I will not be so lazy in the future:) That said I am looking for ideas how to get more fruits in - good points about good soil seems ok without rotation. I have not noticed a difference BUT I had a lot of problems with cucumber beetles and cabbage loopers - so rotation hopefully will help. I am trying hard to move crops for that reason more then any other.

Crop rotation really isn't effective against flying pests. The moths and beetles will find the crops even if it is moved miles away. Crop rotation is directed at soil borne issues be it pests or diseases. Loopers are easy to control for with row covers or Bt dust or spray. Cuke beetles are a little more complex but as discussed on your other threads there are effective controls available for them as well.

Dave

"That said I am looking for ideas how to get more fruits in..."

I suppose you mean both a greater variety, and maximizing your harvest. For those aspects of soil management, I think you may benefit from inter-planting, and crowding. Assuming you have fairly decent soil (I know that I shouldn't assume, but...,) Learning the needs and habits of each plant can help you to apply some ingenuity to make best use of your space.

For example... plants like lettuce, and some leafy greens don't like hot weather, and can stand a little shade. So, there's no direct reason why they need their own bed or space. Since they prefer cooler weather, with planning, they can be planted in the same areas as taller plants such as tomatoes or peppers. Because of their growth patterns, and preference for spacing, I think indeterminate tomatoes are the better choice for an inter-planting of lettuce/greens. The greens are planted early, keeping in mind (and leaving space for) your later tomato transplants. By the time the tomatoes are put in, you are already picking your first harvests of greens. And as the tomatoes grow, they provide protection from the hotter late-Spring, early-Summer sun for the plants growing under their canopy. Even without direct sun, the heat will make the greens bolt eventually, and by that time, the tomatoes will appreciate the extra air circulation provided by the removal of the greens.

In the above example, the nutrient needs are slightly different, so there won't be a lot of competition. Although, you may need to add a bit more nitrogen - not a lot more, but keep in mind that inter-planting is a more intensive style. You maximize space, but you also rely more on resources. Not a problem though, doesn't even necessarily cost more money. Plenty of techniques for improving soil fertility for little, to absolutely no cost.

If any other techniques come to mind, I'll mention them, but think of where you can squeeze a beet, or carrot root. Beans? They'll climb anywhere... you get the idea.