On the tropical fruit forum mentioned by hoosierquilt there is a sub forum for buying selling trading seeds and scion, click. Under the sub forum there is a thread called [nursery listing] Click. under that thread there is a link called [fruit lovers nursery seeds and scion hawaii] , click on that link and it will lead you to a thread where, presumably the owner claims to sell Monroe scionwood. I dont want to post the actual link since it may violate TOS. Hope this helps.

Since you aren't an expert at propagating cuttings, the safest route would be to send the cuttings to be budded as you did before... Once you can get them to grow and they are truly a white sport of Sunstruck, you will have a brand new rose on your hands...

I haven't here because I have no mist capabilities nor any room in which to create them. When I volunteered at The Huntington Library propagating roses back in the eighties and nineties I did. I learned from the folks at Sequoia Nursery watching them do all manner of wonderful things with heat and mist. Mr. Moore took a three pound coffee can and poked holes around the side about an inch up from the bottom. He placed it on a mist table which was between green houses and tall trees where it received a few hours of direct sun and much filtered light throughout the day. He took disbudded (all but the top one or two) long whips of Pink Clouds and grafted two to three pieces of various miniatures just under the top growth buds to created the beginnings of miniature tree roses. Once the grafts were tied in, he would lay them down on the gravel under the mist while he worked on the next one until he had completed the number of that variety he desired, then he would rubber band all of the same variety together with a tied-on label and insert them into the coffee can where the mist would keep all the growth moistened and the water would collect in the bottom inch of the can before leaking out the holes around the sides. In literally a few weeks, as few as two weeks in extremely hot weather, they would remove rooted, knitted bud mini trees which would then be potted individually in four inch pots and placed under mist to continue developing their root systems. As they matured, they would be moved into less and less mist in the green house until they were sufficiently hardened off and could be safely moved out into the open sun where they were kept watered by overhead sprinklers on the nursery tables. What I used what his trick of taking a long whip of a potted root stock in the green house, disbud the length you want to work with and bud as many buds of the rose you have along its length, leaving an inch or two open between them. He would tie the whip into a nearly horzontal position to push the sap upward, forcing the buds to break into growth as quickly as possible. Once they were growing, he would cut them apart and root them under mist, producing budded plants with no stock growth buds other than the budded variety. To produce the scion buds desired, he would bend a cane of the variety he wanted over as you would train a climber, for the same reason, to push it to grow "laterals". Once they started pushing, swelling, not producing leaf or cane growth yet, just swelling into larger "bumps", he would collect and bud them. Having mist and green houses with free water (they had six wells on the six acres which were used for irrigation only); a climate with a true "four seasons" where Daphne, lilac, crepe myrtle, citrus, grapes, most berries, a very wide range of stone fruit, all varieties of redwood, ceanothus, many varieties of cherry, pomegranate, figs, loquats, quince...just about any kind of fruit not severely damaged by heavy frost in spots protected by dense, tall trees grew there. Summer visits often included snacking on berries, cherries or other treats. Mr. Moore was an absolute freak for any kind of berry. Many people (myself included) would bring him all manner of odd, wonderful berries which he always accepted with delight. And, they grew like the invasive weeds most are there! There was enough winter chill, enough water, enough organic litter from all the plants for them to grow massively with enough high heat to make them sickeningly sweet. Usually the humidity wasn't terrible. Rust and black spot occurred, but most often on the open air retail plants which were too crowded in small pots on the tables. In really "bad" years, rust would occur on the in-ground plants, but most often it didn't. The green houses were frequently between 100 and 120 degrees F in summer, with 100% humidity. Under those conditions, there are NO diseases and NO insects! Mr. Moore would lead with me dragging behind him through that heat and humidity to see the latest discovery or seedling. That heat and humidity wore me down quickly, but he stretched like an old cat each time we'd enter one of the "saunas". In those conditions, you can bud or root virtually anything with near total success. Those conditions lasted most of the summer and slowed dramatically as fall began the cool down into winter/spring. It was common to encounter massive "rose trees" consisting of many different rose varieties where a seedling or a piece of Pink Clouds or Rum 10, his thornless selection of multiflora from his Australian agent, Roy Rumsey, formed the roots. The trunks might be three, four or even five different roses which had been budded to the earlier plant to see how they grew, what they looked like. Since they were all seedlings, there was little concern for virus infection. Occasionally a sucker from an older seedling would sprout and Mr. Moore would propagate it to try again. Often, when I would bring cuttings, they would be removed from their bags and laid on the gravel or perlite surface of the mist tables in the mist house where they would be forgotten and root themselves in the table. Burling was able to provide the Hearst Castle tree roses a full year early because of being able to root the whips in pots in the green house and begin budding almost immediately. So, yes, under the right conditions, in the right climate, you CAN bud and root simultaneously. It usually requires high heat and extremely high humidity, tremendously greater humidity than I can generate here in So Cal. Kim

I thought I recognized that greenhouse in the background. I had a bad day in that thing. Yep, I have no choice but to use a greenhouse with them in the winter. They would not make it long up here. This year we had 4 nights that got down to 20 degrees and many more below freezing. I am going to plant the Bangkok lemon right next to my gold nugget and prune heavily to keep them from getting too tangled. Kind of the two in a hole method, with the trunks about 2ft apart. When they get close to the height limit I'll just hack the top off. Might not make them the nicest looking trees, but I figured that since they fruit right fro the trunk I should still be able to get a decent crop from them. I'd be happy with 2-3 fruit a season from each. They will be under a greenhouse from about January 1st through the end of Feb. If I can stop buying plants at some point I am going to get some cash together for one of those 10 X 12 harbor freight GH, but until then it's just the portable ones.