Favorite fertilizer regimine? Weed control?
Lilyfinch z9a Murrieta Ca
8 years ago
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cecily
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Reseeding, fertilize, weed prevent for fall/winter?
Comments (5)It is getting to be too late, not too early. You can do it later for sure, but if you do it now, it gives you time to recover if you missed a spot or the seed doesn't come up for some reason. I don't stay up to date on Scott's products. The way their website works when I get on, it knows I live in the south and I only get to see the southern lawn products. Crabgrass is a summer annual plant. It germinates in the spring. I can't imagine a preemergent herbicide that would last until next year and be effective. The weeds that are germinating now are typically wildflowers which have a very short life in the spring. Usually you can mow them off and you'll never see them again. Generally we tell people if you want a fertilizer, get a fertilizer. If you want a herbicide, get a herbicide. Mixing the two together sounds great in the commercials, but the application of the mix is completely different from anything else you ever use on the lawn. Many people get it wrong and are disappointed. It's practically a two-man job to do it right. Your grass seed should be for shady areas. Otherwise you likely have the wrong mix of seeds. The best way to keep weeds out is to make the lawn as dense as possible NOW and to water and mow properly NEXT SEASON. Seeding now is a good idea for everywhere your lawn is thin or weeds have grown in. Use an appropriate shade or sun seed for the specific areas they'll be used. I would not use a winterizer fertilizer yet. Save that for Thanksgiving. If you use something with the new seed, use a starter fertilizer and/or any organic fertilizer. Do the seeding now and water 3x per day for just long enough to keep the seed moist. Do not drench the soil 3x per day. It's more than a misting but much less than a drenching. Keep up that watering schedule for 3 weeks and then start to back off. Mow when the grass is 5 inches high. Mow it back to 4 inches (your mower's highest setting). Tall grass has deeper roots to make it through the winter and summer. Winterize about Thanksgiving time. Actually watch for the grass to stop growing. Then winterize. Next season start off by watering deeply and infrequently. Deeply means one inch all at one time. Mother Nature will help you with this. If you get a full inch of rain, then don't water more. Infrequently means once a month when the temps are below 70 degrees, once every 3 weeks above 70, once every 2 weeks above 80, and once a week above 90. Mother Nature will help you with this, too. Basically the idea is to allow the soil to dry out completely at the surface before watering again. If you keep the soil surface moist, then all the crabgrass seed will try to germinate. Mow at any height you like but at least 3 inches. I would say 4 inches, but others swear by 3. It's not that big a deal as long as you don't mow it low. There are only three turf types that should be low and yours isn't one of them....See MoreWeeds, weeds, more weeds.
Comments (16)Wild grape and Chinese wisteria growing like MORE than just weeds. Sometimes I think Monmouth County is just one big Chinese Wisteria farm run amok. I hack at them every week or so pulling up underground vines as far back as I can get them up out of the ground but it's a losing battle. Maybe it's because this is my first year gardening so I'm actually noticing but there seems to be more pests of every kind this year...flying, crawling, burrowing, slithering and walking on 4 legs eating everything in their path above and below ground. I even had a Peahen who just began making a weekly appearance start eating my Alyssum which took forever to bloom from seedlings! My own fault because I felt sorry for her and thought she might be hungry. I threw a tiny bit of cracked corn on the ground for her to eat. The way her head whipped around when she heard that corn hit the driveway and how close she let me get to her tells me she belongs at a farm on the other side of a county road outside my father's neighborhood...not a starving wild foundling I need to help survive! She had her corn and my flowers. Didn't respond to yelling and clapping so I had to shoo her away until next time. This is a not-so-funny newbie weed example. My father found some Chinese Forget-Me-Not seeds in his car which were within package date. I sowed them in bare spot at top of driveway just for a little throwaway color. Green starts sprouting and I keep watering seedlings for a few weeks. As I'm cutting back baby vine foliage around seedlings one evening my father tells me they look like weeds. I say, couldn't be...denial. Finally I take a stem and compare it to the weeds I've been pulling out of the Bearded Iris for weeks. Yup...same weeds instead of Chinese-Forget-Me-Nots. It's combination Quack grass & "Nimblewill" far as I can tell. Yank some more and still a bare spot at top of driveway since 4 legged critters ate every single Cosmos seedling I planted there three times. Direct sowed some seeds but birds got them. I have tons of mulch on everything but I have the sinking feeling I'm not going to fully understand the meaning of rampant selfseeding and weed seeds breaking dormancy until NEXT year...LOL. Those cute little kidney shaped leaves I thought were some kind of wild ginger were correctly identified for me by someone on a forum as Garlic Mustard. In Spring I hand pulled them from one side of the house for 7 hours. They'd overwintered as cute little "ginger leaves" and grew into upright weeds with white flowers but I never made the connection. Have to pull and put in garbage because seeds still viable if just dumped in woods or composted. Now it's all over the place moving further and further along although Rutgers Extension weed ID site says it's "not yet a problem in cropping areas." The seed cycle is 5-7 years for eradication! How about the way all these aggressive weeds have destroyed the understory of woods and allowed other weeds to take their place instead of natives? The side of house where I pulled all upright Garlic Mustard is now covered in some other upright weed that's not Pokeweed but I can't identify it. Some other Jersey girl asked for identification on another forum but I don't think it's been identfied yet. Well, since I've been checking forums I've delayed by well over an hour watering all those darn containers that were my alternative to making any more new beds in cement clay and seedlings still needing attention. Besides, I think I've used up my "whoa is me" whining quotient for the day! :)...See MoreOrganic Fertilizer, when to fertilize
Comments (3)This is a hard question to answer simply because there are so many wonderful books available on organic gardening. If I had to choose just a few, here's my list. I consider the first three indispensable and the next three pretty darn close to indispensable. I have read at least 50 books devoted to organic gardening. Here's my Top Ten favorites. OK, it is actually my Top Twelve because I listed two of Louise Riotte's books as item #7 and two of Sara Stein's books as Item #6. 1. "Rodale's All-New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening" (appprox. 700 pages)--this is the ultimate how-to for organic gardeners. 2. "Organic Gardening (Your Seasonal Companion to Creating A Beautiful and Delicious Organic Garden)" by Maria Rodale This book teaches the basics--the hows and the whys. It includes tips for planning and design. It has spectacular photos. Written by the granddaughter of the founder of ORGANIC GARDENING magazine, this book also incorporates the whole philosophy of organic gardening and organic living. 3. "The Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control" by Barbara Ellis A huge book. Over 500 pages. Many, many photos. 4. "Lasagna Gardening" by Patricia Lanza. Simply the best book on building beds and improving soil the easiest way. 5. "The Rodale Guide to Composting" 6. "Noah's Garden: Restoring the Ecology of Our Backyards" by Sara Stein. I read this book not long after we moved to Oklahoma and it has had a HUGE influence on me and on how I do things. There is a follow-up book called "Planting Noah's Garden" that is also wonderful. 7. "Carrots Love Tomatoes" and "Roses Love Garlic" by Louise Riotte. Theoretically these are books about companion planting. In reality, they are full of organic gardening how-tos and whys. I love every book written by Louise Riotte. She lived in Ardmore, Oklahoma, by the way, so much of what she wrote is geared towards our soils and our climates. 8. "Trowel and Error" by Sharon Lovejoy. This is a little handbook of organic formulas, tips, ideas, remedies, etc. It is a beautifully illustratate paperback. Any other book by Sharon Lovejoy is wonderful and well worth your time. 9. "Texas Organic Gardening: by Howard Garrett. It was Mr. Garrett who first taught me about organic gardening the natural way when I lived in Fort Worth, via his newspaper columns, radio show, books and TV appearances. Anything written by him is good. He has a great website too. It is www.dirtdoctor.com. 10. "Lessons in Nature: 50 Years of Organic Gardening From An Organic Gardening Pioneer" by Malcolm Beck, It was Malcom Beck who first inspired Howard Garrett to go organic, I think. Mr. Beck was truly ahead of his time and is very much responsible for getting many people in Texas to convert to organics long before it was popular. Buying books can get expensive. I always go to Amazon.com and search long and hard for used copies of the books I want. You can save a lot of money this way. And, you don't have to buy them. If you live in a town with a decent library, you can check out the books and read them first. After reading a book, you can decide if it would be worth your while to have a copy at home available for constant referral. For what it is worth, organic gardening is more than just using natural methods and abstaining from quick chemical fixes. It is, first and foremost, living and gardening in such a way that you work WITH the natural world and its systems, and not against it. Organic gardening is all about trying to improve the world and to "first, do no harm". It is NOT about feeding the plants or killing insects off with 'natural' potions. It is about feeding and improving the soil so that the soil will feed the plants. It is about working with the good, beneficial insects because they will help you battle the bad insects. It is about living your life and gardening on your piece of earth in a way that is in harmony with the natural world. Organic gardening is an amazing experience. It will change the way you look at the world. Good luck! Dawn Oh, and about the peach tree. If your soil is healthy, it won't need supplemental fertilizer. I never fertilize my peach trees. I feed the soil and the soil feeds the trees....See MoreWeed control
Comments (2)Bob, You can smother and otherwise control the weeds and there are several options for doing so. 1. Lay down sheets of newspaper, roughly 8 to 12 pages thick (more if you like) and overlap them by a couple of inches so weeds can't spring up in the gaps between pages. Then, cover the newspaper with something that will hold it down...grass clippings, straw (less likely to have seeds than hay will), compost (stuff may sprout in it though), bark mulch/hardwood tree trimmings, shredded leaves, pine needles, etc. The easiest way to spread the news paper is to have 2 people (or more) and have one (or more) lay down the paper followed immediately by the second person wetting down the paper to keep it from blowing away before you can cover it up. 2. Even more effective than newspaper is cardboard. Lay it down, wet it down and cover it with something to hold it it place. 3. You can "solarize" your soil and keep down the growth of weeds at the same time by putting a large sheet of plastic over the proposed garden site. Be sure the ground and sprouting weeds are good and wet before you lay down the plastic because you want to kill the weeds and cause them and their roots to rot. Use rocks, landscape timbers, landscape fabric staples or something to hold the plastic down so it won't blow away. The heat of the sun and the plastic will combine to form a "greenhouse" effect. The heat will not only kill weeds and keep others from sprouting, it also will kill bacteria and viral diseases that live in the soil. The downside is that solarization will kill some of the beneficial biological life in the soil too, which is why you don't want to solarize every year. You can leave the plastic uncovered which causes more of a greenhouse effect, or you can cover it with an inch or so of mulch (not too much mulch or the ground will stay too cool). 4. You can use a pre-emergent weed killer, either organic or chemical, your choice depending on your gardening philosophy. That will keep additional weeds from sprouting but will not kill the ones that are already growing. If you are going to do this, the best time to apply is probably in mid-September or so. MANY cool-season weed seeds sprout in very latest summer to very earliest fall and stay very tiny until late winter when they suddenly have a growth spurt and get big overnight. So, by putting out a pre-emergent before they sprout, you stop them before they really get going. The downside to using a pre-emergent in the fall is that it sometimes can keep seeds from sprouting in the spring (although it ought to wear away by then). So, if you do put out a pre-emergent in the fall, you'll have to till the soil in late winter or early spring before planting and that WILL bring up some weed seeds that will sprout and compete any seeds you plant. 5. One of the most logical things you can do is till the soil and plant a winter cover crop that will grow and essentially crowd out any cool-season weeds or grasses that try to grow. Not only will a thickly-sown cover crop crowd out common weeds, it will prevent soil erosion. Several weeks before planting time, just till the cover crop into the soil where it will decompose and enrich the soil. 6. Some people like to rototill up their garden plot 2 or 3 times over the course of the winter. There are some logical reasons for doing this.....it exposes cool-season weed seeds to daylight and they sprout and THEN you pull them up while they are small or hoe them out. It also exposes insect pests that overwinter in the soil which, if the air temps. are cool enough, can cause them to die. This works best if you have soil that is fairly dry in the winter and that drains well and it doesn't work so well with heavy clay or very rocky soil or if you have heavy winter rains that keep the soil too wet to till repeatedly. The downside with this method is that soil erosion can occur if heavy rains fall just after you've tilled AND, if it is a very rainy winter, you may not be able to rototill it often enough. My favorite method, personally, of those I've suggested is cardboard or newspaper covered with medium-sized hardwood trimmings that have been chipped or shredded OR shredded leaves. The cardboard and newspaper do decompose eventually and help enrich the soil, and they also attract earthworms to the garden bed which is beneficial too. If you have access to either hardwood tree trimmings or lots of shredded or chopped leaves, you can pile them on the garden bed 6" to 8" deep even without the newspaper or cardboard and they should keep the weeds down. My second favorite choice would be a cool season cover crop....and it would be my first choice if I had a garden plot that was low in organic content. Good luck, Dawn...See Morehuckdog1
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8 years agodan_keil_cr Keil
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8 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
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8 years agolast modified: 8 years agodregae (IN, zone 6b)
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