Interesting idea, I just set up a drip irrigation system myself but what i dois take a handful of solid fertilizer("special" mix from local store) and just place a little mound under the drip so I get a direct feed. I guess the question is how many gallons per hour you are dripping and can you fit enough MG for one feeding or do you plan a low level constant feed.

I found a solution that has kept my feeders from dripping and attracting yellow jackets and other unwanted pests. This only works for Humzinger-style feeders (not the standard large flower, smaller feeders.) I bought pipe sealant in the hardware section of my grocery store; pipe sealant is non-toxic. I also bought a roll of plumber's tape--the really thin tape used to help pipes seal up. First I cleaned everything really well. Then popped out all of the flowers and slathered a bunch of I then slathered the pipe sealant around where the flowers go in--you want to use a really good amount--and pushed them back in. I then did the same where the top met the bottom "bowl". Next, I wrapped a generous amount of the plumber's tape around that same place to really seal it up. The pipe sealant comes in little tubes and is kind of like working with toothpaste and putty mixed together. (Note: It doesn't fully dry up. It's not supposed to.) The end result is somewhat ugly with the white tape and the white goop around the flowers, but it sufficiently not only stopped the yellow jackets from coming (they tried and tried, but finally stopped.) You will have to replace the tape and pipe sealant now and then around the base, as it expands and contracts with the day heating up and cooling off--and especially so if it's in direct sunlight like mine are. I have a lot of hummingbirds who come my way all summer and all winter (we have Anna's Hummingbirds here in Oregon, and they don't migrate), and they've been very happy about not having the yellow jackets scare them off in the warmer months.

Live Wire Oak, this refrigerator is still under warranty and many parts for GE Profile models have a 5 year warranty. I would never have even considered an appliance that didn't have a decent warranty. For a less than one year old refrigerator to have problems is not normal or acceptable. Does anyone really think so? GE's offer of a discount on another model, is not acceptable either. Firstly, there isn't another GE model that I would want. We needed a refrigerator that had lots of space. I took a measuring tape with me to showrooms and measured the shelf space of many different refrigerators. I was surprised that most 24 cu ft models today have even less shelf space than my old 23 year old, 20 cu ft Whirlpool which did not have enough capacity for our needs. (and it was old - but as I stated earlier, never necessitated a service call). And we needed one with the largest refrigerator space - We have a small freezer in the garage. Today's French door and bottom freezers models just don't fill that requirement. We also didn't want an icemaker or water dispenser which take up way too much space and have many problems. This GE Profile model is the only 24 cu ft top freezer on the market. I felt reassured by a ringing endorsement by Consumer Reports at the time we bought it, although I notice that in their most recent ratings, GE refrigerators has lost its high rating status. As for my doing the diagnostics, the GE tech was just here. Wasn't that what he was supposed to do? But as I stated previously, of course we checked the door seals. And, of course I don't know for sure what the problem is, but I realized that once again I can't always depend on those who are supposed to have the skill, knowledge, and experience, to do work the homeowner can't be expected to because the homeowner didn't have years of training and experience. After researching the issue I've read enough to come to believe that the build up of ice in the freezer and water in the refrigerator compartment should not be considered "operating as designed". I wonder if Live Wire Oak understands what is involved in testing and replacing the thermostat. It's just not reasonable to advise that I do this repair myself. I don't have the ability or electrical knowledge. An internet repair clinic advises to"Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete this repair". I believe I read that one homeowner who tried this ended up with severe burns. Okay, first step, (according to the instructions on the website), is to locate the defrost thermostat, and in freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit. I'm not sure how I can get under the floor of the unit. Being 5' tall and 96 lbs, I can barely move the beast. And even if I were Wonder Woman, I don't have the equipment to do this repair. For example, in order to test the thermostat, one would need to "set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting". Apparently, the thermostat is wired in series (whatever that means) with the defrost heater. I just wouldn't touch that - even I could get access to it. You might want to check out the post: French Door Refrigerators. mmhmmgood wrote on Sat, Aug 13, 2011, "The only one that might be worth avoiding is GE, consumer reports show a pretty poor brand reliability with GE's fridges. " What I am complaining about is that the service technician was here for 5 minutes and left abruptly, without checking anything other than the evaporator coils. He was not originally scheduled to come to our house that day; we were added at the last minute - the fault of GE service schedulers. He normally starts his calls at 8 but he was forced to start his day earlier because of us and was here at 7:45 and he was quite angry. It was very, very unfortunate for us. And I want to stress that our first refrigerator was replaced because every test the tech did - and he did a number - all done with his laptop connected to a central service location - showed every test as failing. It was under warranty and it was declared "unrepairable". If it's unrepairable, it doesn't make a lot of sense to continually try to repair it. It costs a company money to have to send service people over and over again to try to make repairs (costs in labor and parts) when it knows that the appliance is not repairable.

I had the same problem with my apron front soapstone sink when I first got the sink although my doors did not warp, thank goodness. I even posted a thread called "help my sink keeps splashing me" because not only was water dripping everywhere, but also I was soaking wet after doing dishes and had to change my clothes. It took me awhile to get used to turning my faucet strength down to minimize splashes. I also lay a folded towel horizontally across the top of the sink if I am doing a big clean up. I wipe off the front and back of the door if it gets wet too. Although not for you, fatlady...if anyone is still doing their remodel...There are also DRIP RAILS which are supposed to prevent this problem although I have never seen one in person. It is a bullnosed piece of countertop that is placed under the sink on top of the cabinet to catch the drips. I did not see a picture of this until after my remodel but I love the look. There is a picture of a dark granite drip rail under a white farm sink on the first picture in the Christopher Peacock slide show. Here is a link that might be useful: Christopher Peacock