I forgot to add that the new space will have to have engineered wood floors(since they are on a slab) but the existing floors are solid (Mirage prefinished) if that makes a difference. It's also possible that the new floors will differ in not having the same microbevel as existing floors. I don't know if I should avoid a microbevel in the kitchen or match the other floors. Thanks.

I am not quite sure how to comment to specific people, so thank you to everyone. Tozmo1: We actually decided to get rid of the trim and make an even larger functional bottom (6"), but, yes, 4" is what the top drawing depicts. We also tried a bunch of configurations. Sushipup1: We are definitely considering frameless for the purpose of space. I think this is what you are suggesting. MizzLizzie - I think I understand what you mean and that could be a good idea. Do you have a photo by any chance? I would love to see closed/open! B F: With the new layout we plan to start the drawer/cabinet a few inches from the corner so that it won't encounter the oven handles.

Do you think it would look better to have the whole upstairs hardwood running in the same direction, as opposed to switching how the hardwood runs in the master bedroom? My main concern is entering the master bedroom, the floors won't run left to right they will run front to back I.e. perpendicular to how the bed is situated but also perpendicular to how the light (south light) hits the room.

"Not a recommended procedure." By whom? The floor has bracing, the purpose of the blocking is not roll-over protection or hurricane protection or even seismic protection... it is to limit subfloor sagging between joists... PERIOD! "Weakened planks and second-floor bounces are best fixed with a new layer of plywood" Either the problem is solved or it isn't, either the solution is cost effective or it isn't. The best solution in one situation may not be the best solution in another. When the typical solutions don't work, you look for other ways to accomplish the same thing. The solution to add plywood is the best solution in most situations, but is suboptimal when the problem exists in only a small area. Suppose the living room is 300 square feet of a 3,000 square foot home. The best solution in that case may not be add 3,000 square feet of plywood nor would it be transition down... The best solution would be find a way to achieve the same results without adding height to part or all of the floor, e.g. from below. At times, that is not possible, but sometimes it is. This is something that my floor guy has done several times. It does work just fine.