Many major coatings (paint) manufacturers sell an oil preparation just
for wood countertop surfaces. For example, Watco Butcher Block Oil and Finish
from Rustoleum.

Specialty kitchen suppliers also sell cutting block or
butcher block oils. One we like is John Boos' Butcher Block Mystery Oil
— a formulation of mineral and linseed oils — so, actually, not much of
a mystery.

If you absolutely are not going to cut on the surface, then a "hard" coating will work. We use Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner, then a good oil-based penetrating stain (Minwax or Cabot are both relatively easy to work with), then at least three coats of Waterlox as a sealer. Always, always, always follow the directions on the can for each product for the best result.

The pre-stain conditioner helps ensure uniform stain acceptance and prevent streaks and blotches by evening out the absorption of oil based stains, especially in ring-porous wood like (oak, elm, mulberry) and woods of wildly varying density (maple, alder).

Be sure to seal the bottom of the countertop with the same number of sealer coats that you use on the top. If you don't, uneven absorption of water over time will cause the countertop to cup.

If you do nick or slice the surface, it can bet quickly repaired with light sanding and another coat of Waterlox.

Caveats: The countertop exposed to direct sunlight from a window or skylight will fade more quickly than the rest of the countertops. To prevent that problem, consider a sealer that has a high level of UV protection such as Epifanes, made in Holland as boat varnish. We use it on decks. The countertop edges around the sink will need many coats of sealer -- we use seven.

I'm curious, Starcraft--why not waterlox marine? IIRC, a few years back when waterlox occasionally posted on GW, their rep said that the real difference between their marine finish and regular was not water resistance but rather the amount of sunlight it could take.

@writersblock

Yes, we use the marine grade rather than the ordinary Waterlox. I should have been more specific. But, we still think Epifanes does a better job of UV protection in direct sunlight mostly because we are very pleased with its performance on deck railings which get a real beating from sunlight..

Thanks!

"Be sure to seal the bottom of the countertop with the same number of sealer coats that you use on the top. If you don't, uneven absorption of water over time will cause the countertop to cup."

Myth.

Starcraft, What brand of epoxy sealer is used before the OSMO? I am considering this finish for a counter with an under mount sink.

luettaw:

Do a bit of experimentation. An undermount sink will expose end grain which sucks up finish much more than flat grain which may turn the end grain more dark. You'll want to see this on a scrap first.

We just redid our oak floors with Waterlox and spoke extensively with their helpful technical support person before doing so. They said that on their website they no longer say you can use stain with their product because there are so many stain formulations on the market now, not all of which are compatible with Waterlox. Any basic oil-based stain can be used safely with their product (which has an oil base itself). Based on what their tech suggested we mixed the stain and Waterlox together at a 1:4 ratio for the first coat only, then used pure Waterlox for all successive coats. We've been really happy with the results. That said, we have butcher block counters and I think I'm going to use mineral oil and beeswax to seal them since even though I know I won't be using them as a cutting surface, I can't trust that others will understand not to. And, like you, all the information I've read has done nothing but make me more confused and nervous!

girouxgh -- Thank you for the tidbits about dealing with Waterlox and stain (oil-based) . . . I hadn't considered talking to them directly . . . what a concept! Ha!

Will your new countertops involve a sink? Mine will . . . but I am doing a drop in -- not an undermount.

Joseph Corlett, LLC -- I have noticed this is an ongoing discussion around the web . . . to seal the bottom side the same as the topside. I am curious, do you recommend sealing the bottom at all?

We're doing a drop in too! We're doing hitched block on the entire perimeter of our kitchen with a slide in range too. Clearly you have great taste! ;) Our plan is to do clear silicone under the lip of the sink, then around the edges of it too to hopefully get the best seal possible. The plan is to do it this week, so I'll keep posted if we make any headway!

I'm curious what the feedback is about sealing the bottoms too...

My DH and I DIY'd a large walnut island a while back and used Waterlox. I finished the underside with three coats for several reasons, but not for cupping. Our island is constructed of planks, has a 45" under mount sink and a dishwasher which adds much moisture, plus the 15" overhang. It made sense to finish the underside. I'm very pleased with the the Waterlox finish. I used the original formula, not marine and it has held up to water very well.

girouxgh I hope everything goes exactly as you have planned this week!

bbtrix My plans do not include a dishwasher (thankfully, as far as moisture/sealing of the butcher block goes) . . .

I have ordered the original formula/Waterlox as of yesterday. This weekend I pick up the countertops. So, I'm slowly gathering all my goodies! Because I do not anticipate excessive moisture below the top of the counters I have decided to seal the top and all edges along with overhangs only. I surely hope I don't regret it down the road!!!

Gotta share our recent install (I love it so!). Not DIY, so I can't attest to many details. I do know the builder applied 5 coats of Waterlox on top and bottom. We attached it to the cabinets using brackets (no glue), and he adamantly directed us to wait for the silicon to dry then CUT it away from the sink. You may find his website helpful.

Quartersawn oak with Waterlox

Take it from me: gel stain and Waterlox do NOT mix.

For 3 different large pieces of BB, I used Zar gel stain + Waterlox.

Result = tacky/stick bb that paper, etc stick to and just looks horrible.

Good thing: it's BB, so I can sand it all down and start all over again.

(maybe next year; I'm too tired this year).

Amanda's tacky/stick BB w/ Zar gel stain + Waterlox

I wished I had read this thread. Gel Stain + Waterlox = tacky/sticky BB countertop

ascorsonelli I love everything about your recent install!!! I am still undecided on how to go about using the Waterlox. I have purchased a small can already (of the original). My surface area is barely 24 sq/ft but I can't imagine sealing 5 coats on both sides! Ugh. I am torn. I picked up the countertops just today so I have more time to ponder thankfully.

huango Thank you for your warnings! I will most likely talk to Waterlox before I make anymore purchases beyond their original finish/sealer. I will keep you all posted.

I have never installed "penny" tile . . . anyone think something like this might work??? . . . adding a trim at the top (stopping at the bottom of the window) . . . and I thought maybe about running it to the exterior door and down the side of the far right cabinet to the floor . . . just a random thought I had . . . might sound ridiculous?!?

I think that looks really pretty! I like penny tile as a backsplash and have really liked it when I've seen pics.