While searching this topic, i found the following article. Sounds like my method in bags would be similar to the "white tunnel in the farm" Anaerobic Composting By Compost King 13 Comments Bokashi_Anaerobic CompostingAnaerobic composting or composting without the presence of oxygen has been practiced for centuries. Records indicate that the Chinese are the oldest known civilization to practice this form of composting to fertilize their rice paddies. In more technical terms, anaerobic composting is composting organic materials, using living anaerobic organisms such as bacteria in an environment that has no oxygen present. This is the same process you will find occurring in nature as peat bogs and marshes. Unless you happen to have access to a large field of water you are going to have to find another way to create your anaerobic compost pile. While most composting experts will talk about not letting your compost piles get too wet or they will rot, anaerobic composting requires approximately 70% moisture levels in order for it to work properly. The Standard Compost Pile You can turn your current compost pile into an anaerobic one quite simply and effectively by adding plenty of water. Yes I know we have spent hours telling you how important it is to maintain moderate to low moisture levels, but with this type of composting you need to remove the oxygen from your compost pile. The water will drive out the oxygen and keep it out if you keep the water level high enough. By covering the pile to help keep in the moisture, you will end up with a slimy mess, which indicates that it is working properly. You should however, be prepared for a very odoriferous compost pile. This is really more suitable to households with larger tracts of land where the aforementioned odoriferous pile can be placed away from the house or the neighbors. The Submerged Pile This method of creating anaerobic compost is very similar to that which is has been in use by the Chinese for centuries and involves keeping your compost under water. For this you will need a large tank, plastic pool or tank that is big enough to hold your compost and then be filled with water. As your compost pile decomposes the odors are trapped in the water. While slightly more involved than a standard anaerobic compost pile, your neighbors will certainly appreciate it. anaerobic composting in a fieldThe Big Bag Theory You have probably seen this method in use in the local farmers’ fields, this would be the long white bags that lay in the fields over the winter. This version is a little simpler and a lot smaller. You can use a large heavy duty plastic garbage bag. You first layer the bottom of the bag with soil or cured compost, then add your compost and add enough water to make everything moist. Seal the bag so that no air can get in and roll it to get things started and then leave it alone for 6-8 weeks. No Hole in My Bucket Off all the different forms of anaerobic composting, the bucket method is perhaps the easiest and least offensive. This is a long term project and will take up to a year to create the compost you are looking for. You simple cut the bottom from a five gallon bucket and plant it a few inches into the ground. You then fill it with your scraps and organic waste, place the lid on it and forget it for a year. Do not open until the year has passed or you will let in more oxygen and ruin the process. As you can see a fair amount of patience is required for this method. At the end of the year you will have perfectly usable humus. All of these forms of anaerobic composting work well, some will produce more compost than others, while at the same time creating a rather smelly situation.

kioni, years ago, I dated someone who had that style of composter, and what we decided was best for the turning was to lift it off of the pile (since it's conical and open on the bottom), put it back down next to the pile, and re-load it with a shovel or pitchfork. That meant that the composter moved back and forth, but it wasn't too bad. We also tried something similar that involved knocking over the pile after removing the composter, so that you could put it back in its original location. You're right that getting the stuff to finish can be hard, and it's nearly impossible if you keep adding new scraps. I'm convinced that having 2 (or more) bins is the only way to go, so that one can finish while you still have someplace to add the new stuff. We were not faithful in layering our greens and browns, except on the rare occasion that we had a larger batch of stuff to put in (pretty rare indeed). I also figure that if you're going to turn it with any regularity, the stuff will get mixed up then. When I rebuild my new bins (it will be in the 50s tomorrow and the next day...so maybe then?), I'll have a bunch of leaves, yard waste, shaken out sod from the new garden bed, and a Winter's worth of kitchen scraps (the composter was full and at a dead halt, so we stockpiled the kitchen scraps in lidded buckets)...plus the stuff from the top of last year's pile that didn't do anything after the cold set in. So, this time I'll do some layering to get things started. For our new Spring compost, I will initially have more than one barrel worth of stuff, too (the sod alone is taking up most of a barrel), though that will change rapidly as soon as things start to break down. Once the big settling happens, I'll move all of it into one barrel, and actually let it finish off, while I use my other barrel for new additions. Or so goes the theory. :-)

Annette.... Growing fig trees is probably one of the easiest, and most delicious things you could do. Decide whether in ground, or containerized. Decide on location. (Full-sun, and heat, is good) Figs grow/develop on new wood, so prune if you must to control growth. Read postings on this forum about when/where to prune, and pinch new growth. The winter will be your problem. If containerized, and heavy...buy a dolly @ Home Depot and roll the plant(s) around. Read postings on winter storage/dormancy. Buying a twig/small, rooted-cuttings is a waste of time. Get a bearing-age tree, and you'll have fruit this year. Check your local garden centers for good trees. Twigs die out if not grown perfectly, and in the long run, you'll get more bang for the buck by starting off with a larger plant. I grow my 6 foot tall, single-stem trees in large storage tubs (with drainage holes), and all branches are grown at the top of the long bare trunks. I roll the trees around on dollies. This saves the back, and I'm hernia free. If you can store the trees (containerized) in an unheated garage or dark, cool, storage shed you'll probably solve your winter problems. Buy a short-season fig variety. If at a bearing age, and growing vigorously, pinch back new growth to 6 leaves on each branch for earlier ripening of main-crop figs. You'll be chowin' down on figs by September, or earlier! Seriously, this forum is the only place to get good, solid, up-to-date, fig-growing information. If you are going to buy figs through the mail, stay away, no...run away! from Ty-Ty, and Willis Orchards. Why?...search this forum. Also, west-coast nurseries are known for selling fig trees with mosaic virus. I learned the hard way. I personally have grown only one short-season variety called "Atreano"...which makes a very large, golden-yellow fig that's really sweet... if, ripened correctly. Do a search for this excellent, smaller-growing fig variety. It's a good start. Deer might not be a problem, but birds could be! Hope this helps you decide what to do. Read everything about growing figs on this forum, then decide how you will want to grow the tree(s)...then, go shopping. It's fun, and you'll be hooked. We were all normal once. : ) : ) BronxFigs

That is funny. Don't you know he wonders about a lot of the things we do. We deposit our money in banks for security and they tie the pens to the counter. We build garages and park our cars so we can fill our garages with junk, etc.