My guess is that it's a sweatshop assembly line painting. "Starving Artists: The Process Factory workers stand, for hours at a time, in front of machines that support a long roll of blank canvas. With brushes and paint, each worker is responsible for painting one image or portion of a painting's entire composition. For instance, when producing a landscape painting, Artist #1 will paint a tree, Artist #2 will paint a bird, and so on. At intervals and without warning, the canvas is automatically repositioned by machine to expose the next blank area of canvas to the workers who will paint it. The workers repeat the painting process. During the process, Artist #1 paints that same tree over and over again for the next 14 hours straight. Well, just like Artist #1 whose job it is to paint that tree, there is another artist in the starving artist sweatshop who signs paintings. Despite their country of origin, the signed surnames on the majority of the paintings are not Eastern. Marketing dictates that westerners expect to buy paintings signed with western surnames like Smith, Worthington, or Jones, so the producers sign all of the paintings with a few of the most common western surnames. This piecemeal art process continues until hundreds of look-alike paintings are produced. Completed paintings are cut from the end of the canvas roll, stapled to a wooden stretcher, framed, and crated for shipment to a hotel lobby near you. Now that you know the inside scoop on the starving artists sales, don't you think that your $50 would be better spent on a good pencil sketch by a student artist at your local college or university? I certainly do." This one description of how it's done. Other places make copies of existing museum quality artworks. Eileen Here is a link that might be useful: Art factories.

wi-sailorgirl, not to dismiss your question, but things maybe not covered here, you can check Google for painting tips 101 or u-tube. Trust me there are lots of information out here. Some good and some well (uh not so informative). If doubts, you can also come back with a follow up question. Anyway, great choice on your selection (Aura). Just make sure you follow the directions for painting with Aura because it does begin to set up in a short period of time. You just can't keep rolling and re rolling. Need to roll it on and move on. Any little skippers you notice, leave along and you can get them covered in the 2nd coat. You didn't say whether you have smooth or textured walls, so I am just guessing smooth here. I prefer to use Purdy's white dove dralon paint rollers. I use a 3/8ths or 1/2" cover. I also will de-fuzz the roller sleeve before using. Get yourself a really good roller frame . You definitely don't want to use a cheap wobbly frame. I use Sherlock roller frame and also their very sturdy extension poles. When you get done painting all you have to do is tap the roller on the side of a garbage can or a 5 & the roller sleeve pops right off. Use an excellent brush for painting your trim. One that has a lot of fluidity and flow. If you are going to tape I would recommend using 3m- orange core delicate blue painter's tape listed as #2080. This is the only tape IMO. I would just make sure you have burnished the tapes edge down really secure. If you use any type of tool to press the tape down, you will need to be really careful about not poping a hole in the tape. Trust me it can happen. I myself use my index finger and lightly press the tape in place to get a seal and then I run my finger back across the tape really really good for the final secure. When you are finished painting, if the tape seems to be a little stubborn in releasing, take a box cutter or one of the craft knives to lightly score right where the tape edge is. This should release for you and don't remove at a fast pace. Remove the tape back onto itself. Oh and with Aura , it would be a good idea not to have blowing air directly onto the work surface and if you have an outside wall that gets heated up I would paint this wall first. I am very particular about the temperatures in the rooms I am working in. They can make or break a paint finish. Another thing, if you don't feel comfortable or secure about using the Aura and afraid it will start to set up on you, I would like to also suggest using an x-tender for Aura. I only use XIM x-tender. Just make sure you follow instrustions and stir, stir, stir to make sure it has incorporated into the paint. As far as washing your walls , sometimes that is overkill. In other words how long has it been, are there lots of spots or is the wall really dirty or just dusty, what finish is on the wall at the present time. If the walls are in good condition, just make sure you have dusted all over and if you had to make any repairs , dusting and removing all little flying debris. Washing walls and priming all the time is really ridiculous. Just have to thoroughly examine the walls to make the right determination. Yes, I would cut in the second time as well. hope some of this helps. Good luck. :)

Painter A definitely! BUT...make sure the siding/other woods are DRY b4 priming!! Concurring on the Oil Primer!! Many top-notch Exterior primers are the sloooooww dry variety. * ACE-Royal's Exterior Oil-Primer specifies basically "the next day" wait. * The C2 Exterior Oil-Primers are the same wait. >>> The best Latex paints are 100% Acrylic. Make SURE you know the EXACT BRAND/SERIES of paint going on your house. Check your contract to see if it's spelled out. >>> If I was paying to "3-coat" MY house, 1 coat would be a primer. The other two coats = 100% Acrylic Latex...the best I could afford. Faron

can you do something like this?