Fun to guess maybe, but since Papilio individuals fall within a size range for any species, it is pretty much impossible to say which species you saw from the information given. Could have been an individual anywhere between the low or high end of the size range of any species. So it's possible for adults in any of your species to be the exact same size. If the top end of size ranges are considered, size wise Papilio cresphontes is the largest Palilionidae in your area. But as Christie pointed out this is not what would be termed a black species. Your largest "black" species is Papilio glaucus, followed in turn by Battus philinor, Paipilio polyxenes and Papilio triolus. Pictures or if you could note characteristics a give a better description would probably solve the puzzle. Larry

portable humidifiers only have 1 or 2 gallons of water... an average 1400Sq ft home in the winter can use 30 or more gallons of water... a heat pump is going to require heated steam humidifiers to adequately maintain humidity...

Thanks for the responses! It turns out that Mike was close to the answer. My aging ears were playing tricks on me. A hand on a register confirmed that the blower does NOT start immediately when the thermostat calls for heat. A little cheating of the access panel interlock shows that when the furnace starts, the ignitor immediately begins to heat. This, with the draft fan, accounts for the initial 6+ amps. After some seconds (10-20?) the ignitor reaches ignition temperature, the gas valve opens, and poof, the burner ignites. Then the ignitor shuts off. Now only the draft fan and gas valve are drawing current, hence the drop to 1.6 amps. Several more seconds pass and then the heat exchanger temperature rises enough for the blower to start. Then the operating current again rises, to around 5.7 amps. I still don't know why the current gradually falls from there to around 5 amps as the furnace operates, but at least the first part of the cycle makes sense. As an aside, I wondered whether the AFUE rating of modern furnaces takes into account the electrical energy used to burn gas more efficiently, and how this would shake out in the efficiency game. If the gas valve and draft blower together draw 1.6 amps, that's about 192 watts, equivalent to about 655 BTU/hr if it were passed through a resistive heating element. That's not a huge percentage of the furnace's heat output, if my math is right - for a 40k BTU, maybe ~1.5%, if my math is right. So if a traditional draft hood furnace was, say, 60% efficient (I'm making that number up; how [in]efficient *were* those old furnaces?) obviously we're ahead with the modern furnace. The next question is, does a 96% AFUE unit use more electricity than an 80% AFUE? How much more efficient is it really, after considering the additional electrical energy input (if any)? There I have no data - anyone?

It is interesting the low and high pressure switches trip in cooling mode, but not in heat mode. Did you discuss that with the service techs? The Bryant 286ANA heat pump has low and high pressure switches. Here is what I found in the Bryant troubleshooting guide: In the event of a high--pressure switch trip or high--pressure lockout,check the refrigerant charge, outdoor fan operation, and outdoor coil (in cooling) for airflow restrictions, or indoor airflow in heating. In the event of a low--pressure switch trip or low--pressure lockout, check the refrigerant charge and indoor airflow (cooling) and outdoor fan operation and outdoor coil in heating. The fact you are getting both low and high pressure failures seem unusual. Perhaps the metering device is creating unusual pressure situations. It could also be a control board malfunction under high temperatures. Hopefully one the the pros who regularly post on this forum will see this and offer their opinion on what could be causing this error condition.