I find Daniel's nutrient calculator to be a great learning tool even when not making my own nutrient formulas completely from scratch. Sure, it may look scary to the beginner, but some beginners may not have a lot of math or chemistry savvy and would be scared away otherwise. The original poster seems more concerned with cost practicality more than anything and I can fully understand that. A while back I was entering every commercial product on my shelf into my Hydrobuddy V.1.01. As most of you may know, this requires entering Guaranteed analysis and converting $ per X into $ per Kg. I was shocked to find out that Technaflora Root 66 is $79.49 per Kg.(somewhere around $300 per gallon). It doesn't take Rocket science to figure out that that's probably more expensive than the stuff NASA uses to launch the space shuttle! What's it made of? Ascophyllium Kelp, Iron EDTA, and Boric acid. Guaranteed Analysis; 1% Ammoniacal Nitrogen, 1% Phosphorus, 1% Potassium, 0.05% Iron, 0.05% Boron and 96.9% of the most expensive water money can buy! I'm sure I have considered making more ridiculous purchases in my life, however I can't remember when. Furthermore, I never use the stuff. It simply sits on my shelf collecting dust. A 250 Ml. bottle of it was included in a $30.00 starter kit I purchased about two years ago. Who actually buys this stuff? It doesn't take long for the beginner to realize that these products are being marketed for persons growing a much more profitable species of plant. No one in there right mind would ever spend so much to grow produce for the family using such ludicrously over priced products. The commercial nutrient manufacturers have simply zeroed in on a segment of the population making such huge profits that the growers cost of operation is not of much importance. It seems these growers have plenty of extra cash to spread around. It's simply a legal method of capitalizing those who choose to profit illegally, but at least they're collecting taxes. But for the beginning produce grower all is not gloom. There are some affordable products on the market for those who are not ready to start making there own. General Hydroponics Maxigro, Maxibloom and Floramato can be acquired through many hydro shops. Also look into Eco Enterprises, Plant Marvel Industries and those listed by the posters above. You are looking for water soluble (dry) nutrients. Some of these products may require the addition of Magnesium, Sulfer and Calcium. That may save you even more money if you can obtain a source of water soluble Calcium. Magnesium Sulfate is dirt cheap in the form of Epsom salt. These can often be measured by volume with adequate accuracy although you may want to measure by weight with a .01 digital scale or purchase an EC/PPM/TDS meter although this isn't totally necessary but that's up to you. It's far more important to have a method of measuring Ph. Indicator solution works for me. Good Luck; ~Ken~

Hey Joe! First of all, I personally think (and as far as "we" know) plants' purpose is much more than sole reproduction. Plants aren't only an important part of the food chain, but have complex symbiotic connections and relationships inside their own kingdom as in others. They play an important role in keeping earth atmosphere clean and stable, as we know. Furthermore they could be building material for bird nests, or serve rodents or mammals for multiple other purposes (castors), etc, etc. But most importantly, they are the recycled building blocks for soil, humus, folic acids and yes, too many to mention. I don't need to point out what they provide for one particular species called Homo Sapiens, or do I? We wouldn't leave the tremendous purposes that plants have for us out of the equation, or would we? I believe that my statement as in "In nature and in soil culture, it doesn't work like that" is totally accurate when put in the original context I used it - and not treated in a different-one. In nature nutrient supply is either quite stable, varies widely and sometimes is even random, and yet plants are able to adopt, survive and reproduce under various (although in sufficient) conditions. Unlike hydroponic culture which is a much more stable and controlled (sometimes even intentionally manipulated) environment indeed. You gave the example of rainy (or monsoon) season. Well that's actually a good example to demonstrate that it is in fact the other way round. In Northern Thailand and in many other tropical or subtropical regions, the monsoon season is quite extended, as it generally last from May until November, that's about 7 month of frequent rainfalls, high humidity that goes along with high bacterial activity and a rather stable PH in soil (depending on area, forest or open field etc., of course). And yet many "blooming-fruiting" plants can cover 2 complete reproduction cycles in this time laps, with quite stable climatic and in fact similar nutritional conditions. In a Rain-forest, you have got extremely stable and constant climatic conditions and virtually no changes in "nutrient availability" due to climatic changes, as well as soil PH is concerned. And yet you have the greatest biodiversity in both animal and plant kingdom there is on earth. On top of that, around the equator you have very constant (actually unchanged) light cycles. How would the reproduction cycle be triggered at such location then, if not simply by a "time clock" as I suggested. In some "moderate-oceanic" climate or any other much more seasonal climate where "annum species" are much more common, with some plants, reproduction cycles get indeed triggered by light cycle and to some extend certainly also through nutrient availability. But as I understood it, this is more like a "survival instinct" or a last resort to ensure reproduction in a rush with drought or nearing winter, a survival plan B if you prefer. Thus one shouldn't fall for a hasty generalization and think this is COMMON with all plants and under all climates. Last but not least, the culture plants in question, tomatoes and various pepper species (those were actually discussed, right?) are in fact tropical pants by origin - but let's be objective here: heavily cultivated and domesticated since then. Thus I assume that these plants are not only genetically, but due to domestication, selection and culture in fact adapted to controlled and rather stable conditions and this is one more clue why their uptake habits may not be connected with drastic nutrient changes that are directly linked to climatic changes. But what is the conclusion?! I mean what is of actual Interest for hydroponics and what is in fact the best nutrient strategy for tomatoes or peppers? I guess that practice and experience, experimentation, scientific records and commercially used nutritional plans are required. And that extended debates are in fact just suited as "office reading matter" or for general entertainment purposes ;-) Honestly, I like to narrate indeed, but I don't conclude never ever any of my nutrient strategies from any slightly controversial "forum debate" LOL

Will you be growing these under lights for a while? If you have them indoors, you might want a different mix to absolutely ensure it's bug free. I used the cactus mix one year, and it is great for outdoors. This year, I've moved my seedlings in to coco coir/perlite, they are very happy and I haven't had a single fungus gnat or critter on them. I'm not a fertilizer expert, but I think the Vigoro bone meal might be better, it's slow release but the MG numbers have a lot of N. If you are growing organic, you might want to get some seaweed based fert, Espoma or Dr. Earth to supplement the fist fert to give them something extra later in the season. Personally, I'm blown away by the coco/perlite combo with some GH flora series chemical fertilizers. I'm sure they could be transplanted to soil later on. You could also use a peat/perlite/vermiculite mix which is light and sterile and with a little bit of fertilization, they can grow indoors until transplant time. A lot of this depends on your climate, and how much attention you can give them during the day. If you are in a mild climate and can move the plants around during the day, you can bring them outside much earlier and might be fine going right into the cactus mix. Good Luck, you've got a great mix of peppers lined up. I'd recommend adding Thai chilies to that list next year. Very hot, vigorous and bear fruit for a long time.

Mediums Test: The purpose this test is to conclude which mediums work best in the Aqua Camel and how plants perform when nutrients are added to the reservoir. A local hydroponic store was kind enough to give some space for the tests since I had ran out of room in my home testing area. The following mediums were tested: · Happy Frog potting soil · Ocean Forest soil · Roots Organic coco based soil · Botanicare Ready-Grow coco based soil, top fed weekly · Botanicare Ready-Grow coco based soil with nutrients in the reservoir · Royal Gold Tupur · Hydroton (inert clay balls) with nutrients in reservoir · The nutrients were General Hydroponics Flora series, Gro and Micro at regular strength along with GH Calimagic. The tests included the following observations and measurements:· Ambient temperature and humidity· Medium surface temperature· Root zone temperature· Height· Leaf surface area (qualitative)· Moisture readings 3” from surface and in root zone· Overall health of plant and roots at the end of the experiment. Testing environment: Testing area was in grow shop’s plant area under one vegetative spectrum LED and a 400 watt MH HID light. No ventilation or fans. Very controlled environment. Temperatures fluctuated from 75-83 degree Fahrenheit with an average temperature of 78 degrees. Humidity averaged 37.5%. Measurements and results: This test was very conclusive. The following measurements and observations were noted from the tests: · Happy Frog and Ocean Forest were the best performing soils. Moisture readings from the root zone settled in from 3-4, perfect levels.="msolistparagraphcxspfirst"> · Hydroponically grown plant performed excellent also.="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspfirst"> · No issues of root rot or other in the Happy Frog, Ocean Forest, hydroponic or Royal Gold Tupur plants.="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspfirst"> · The coco coir medium is not recommended. It wicks too much and some of the roots were showing signs of root rot.="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspfirst"> · The plants with nutrients performed better than plants without and there was no residues from the nutrient solutions. Soluable, non-organic nutrients are recommended.="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspfirst"> · Vertical growth was from 2 inches on the coco plants to 6-7 inches in the other mediums.="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspfirst"> · Leaf surface area was extremely impressive. Very rapid, robust growth. See pictures below.="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspfirst"> · Water was added to one reservoir, the others did not receive any water besides what was delivered from the Aqua Camel’s reservoir.="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspfirst"> · None of the plants showed any nutrient deficiencies.="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspfirst"> · There were no signs of insects or molds in inspection of soil after pulling plants.="msolistparagraphcxsplast">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspfirst"> Conclusions: The Aqua Camel works best with potting soils such as Happy Frog or Ocean Forest. Also, it works great hydroponically and with soluable, non-organic nutrients in the reservoir. All but one of the reservoirs needed additional water by the end of the tests. Coco coir is not a recommended medium for the Aqua Camel. It seems the wicking effect of the coco pulls too much water into the growing area, thus root zone. The growth of the plants, especially in the Happy Frog, Ocean Forest and hydroton was nothing short of exceptional and robust. Below are side by side shots of before at the end of testing. The roots of the Happy Frog, Ocean Forest and hydroponically grown plants were vibrant, white and had no signs of ailments. Personal note: I have been growing for 15 years and have to say this was the easiest growing method I’ve used thus far. The results were consistent and non-problematic. I visited the plants every five days, took measurements and was on my way. I had more time to inspect the plants, do a bit of manicuring and didn’t have to worry when I left town during the experiments. This is the real deal, kudos to the inventor. ="msolistparagraphcxsplast">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspmiddle">="msolistparagraphcxspfirst"> For play by play visit my Tumblr and see results below. http://adawgsmultiverse.tumblr.com/