Do you need a hood for an induction cooktop in an island?
uscpsycho
8 years ago
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Annie Deighnaugh
8 years agoRelated Discussions
36' induction cooktop: center under island hood?
Comments (6)The effluent from cooking rises and expands from the pan at an angle that can vary, but is in the 20-degree range. Collecting effluent from the controls is not necessary. Hence the hood location should emphasize dealing with the hob layout. What you want the hood centered over are the hobs, not necessarily the entire cook-top, unless it is important visually. If the controls are on the surface to one side, then the hobs are likely equally spaced front and back and thus the hood should be centered front-to-back on the cook-top. Otherwise, for the many designs where the controls are at the front, the hood center should be a bit farther back to better encompass the effluent rising symmetrically from the pans on the hobs. (If your hood is very large front to back so that it overhangs the entire cook-top by several inches, this won't matter as much.) Further refinement in layout might consider whether frying is done primarily at the back or the front, etc. For induction cook-tops, issues such as collecting gas combustion products are not relevant. kas...See MoreDo I really need a 600 cfm range hood for an induction cooktop?
Comments (37)leel.....glad to get your feedback on the induction. Thanks! As for me, I certainly wouldn't mind having to buy a new pan or 2 for the new oven. :-) gsciencechick....thanks for the pots and pans suggestions and the confirmation about induction. I'm ready to be done with gas (although I love the way it cooks) because it's just so dirty to keep clean. muskokascp.....I HEAR you!!! Whatever happened to the days when we just went to the store and asked the opinion of the saleman or perhaps picked out a unit because of style or color? These days we almost have too much info, and it can become crippling, honestly. At some point I just need to make a decision. davidro1.....I love your 'final answer' comment. I WISH!!!! Although I certainly know a lot more than I knew before, I still have questions. But today at the appliance store helped clear up some things. (Meaning that they don't know anything either and I can basically do whatever I want). The inspector on our job (both HVAC and electrical) don't know anything about MUA and can't advise us what we should get. So I just told them I'd get something that wasn't too powerful, and they seemed fine with that. They told us to adhere to the recommendations in the manual that comes with the hood. I swear!!! It's not rocket science.....why is it that nobody knows about this technology?...See MoreDo I really need a island range hood for a induction cooktop?
Comments (57)OK, youall have succeeded in drawing me into another argument. Let's start with the purpose of the overhead vent. The vent is intended to capture and contain effluent contained in the rising and expanding cooking plumes. It has an overlap capture requirement that depends on height, and a flow rate containment requirement that derives from plume velocities and secondary factors. It is not for capture or blockage of grease splatter, as that could require enormous air velocities to achieve. Down-draft "venting" and pop-up side-draft "venting" cannot achieve the needed capture and containment provided by an overhead hood of proper specification for these reasons: Air flow velocity drops rapidly as a function of the smallest dimension of a slot air intake (see the 2003 ASHRAE HANDBOOK, HVAC Applications, Fig. 6). The air velocity in all cases is too low to significantly change hot cooking plume momenta except those plume portions close to the pop-up, so the overhead hood depends on the natural rise of the plumes. Deviation of the upward momentum to the side, or by 180 degrees to head downward, can only work if the plume has low momentum, as in steam from boiling water. Hot oil/grease/moisture plumes from wok cooking and searing will be poorly deviated sideways or in reverse. Fume hoods can have horizontal hood configurations, but the top and sides are blocked from allowing fumes to leak out. The turbulence issue is complicated. Up-rising plumes can be disturbed by side drafts, poor insertion of make-up air into the kitchen, and cook motion. Side-drafts will be pulling air across pan and pot clutter, so some added turbulence is possible, but I don't think it will be a significant addition except close to the pop-up due to the velocity fall-off introduced above. On the other hand, a pop-up can block splatter trajectories from the burner up the the angle between pan and the top of the pop-up and as far as the pop-up sides shadow the area beyond. For this function, no air flow is needed and much of the pop-up system hardware can be dispensed with. If a blank face is used (no vent holes/slots), cleaning may be greatly simplified. Underfloor ducting, blower, external cap can all be deleted. Some cabinet space for the elevation mechanism has to be sacrificed. While a pop-up splatter blocker is a good idea if the degree of blockage is deemed sufficient for the expense, the subject raises the question of why children are sitting in range of hot grease splatter. At a minimum they would need eye protection. There are requirements (that I don't have at hand) for desirable rises and/or runs of seating countertops connected to cooking surfaces. I recommend proper desks in quiet areas for studying. The student should be fully absorbed into the material to be studied without distraction (or at least as little distraction as a post pubertal youth can manage)....See MoreDo I **need** an induction cooktop?
Comments (13)I am not sure that anyone "needs" an induction cooktop, however I got a Viking induction cooktop 2 1/2 years ago, and have been very happy with it. It can boil a gallon of cool water for pasta in 7 minutes, keep sauces warm without sticking/breaking, and it is very responsive to temp changes. I also like the fact that it doesn't throw off extra heat. We did had one problem when we had a power surge after a power outage. Two of the control components burned out to the tune of $1600.00(No joke). Fortunately, this is the one item in our house that we had a warranty on. BUY THE WARRANTY and a whole house surge protector. 2 months ago we decided to move from the PacNW to TX, and my husband commented how nice the kitchen looked in the house we are buying. When there was a lag in my response, he knew that the one thing i am going to do is tear out the 7 year old gas cooktop, and put in an induction cooktop. I figure, I need the extra heat off a gas cooktop in TX like another hole in the head....See Moresilken1
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