Hi Everyone - I notice there hasn't been any posts here for a year so hope Al, Josh, or any of the rest of you tremendously educated and experienced 5-1-1ers are still monitoring it. Even after reading all the above posts twice, I'm still somewhat confused, I guess because of the different "size" examples. I am currently sifting pine mulch (not composted) through a bug screen to remove probably 85-90% of the "dust." I'm then screening the results of that through a 1/2" screen and removing any "threads" or other large yet skinny sticks. Does this sound right, or should I be leaving in more of the dust for the 5-1-1? Thanks as always! Kathy

The plant was wounded in that area (maybe by the re-rod) or something else caused an area of cambium to die. A number of adventitious roots were stimulated to form and grow from undifferentiated meristematic or callus tissue at/ surrounding the wound site. Root over rock schefflera composition: You can cut the plant back as hard as you like, but it would be much better if you waited on the plant to put some reserve energy in the bank before you cut it back, like maybe until Father's Day or so. Getting the plant outdoors for a few weeks before you cut it back will also significantly add to the enthusiasm of the plant's response. My plan would be: Repot it in mid-Jun (repotting is a process that includes root pruning and a complete change of soil. It ensures much greater opportunity for the plant to realize its genetic potential where potting up ensures limitations), making sure you are repotting into a soil you can water properly (to beyond the point of saturation - so you're flushing accumulating dissolved solids [salts] from the soil when you water) without your having to worry about the soil remaining soggy so long it limits root function and impacts root health). Cut it back as hard as you'd like, AFTER the plant resumes normal growth (probably around the 4th of July. AL

Yes science is science, but nobody has yet to explain any science of how anything about my original statements in this thread were incorrect (that's the problem). The reason, their simply not!!! You can twist my statements into anything, but I will always go back to my original statements. If my original statements were comprehended (without trying to turn them into something their not), I would be happy to learn how (if they were) wrong. But the problem is the statements simply are not being addressed as they were stated. Therefore saying something is wrong without even understanding what you are calling wrong, dosen't make any sense. That's why I needed to state them over and over so many times, to clarify the exact meaning of the statements first (because they just weren't understood correctly). Then I asked specific questions, that if answered would explain how my statements were incorrect. Those questions were never answered in any way, shape, or form (correctly/sufficiently or not) with all this so called science that there's supposed to be (that way I could learn if I was wrong). So all that has happened is climes that I'm wrong about everything, talk about all this science being science. Yet absolutely no science showing just how my statements were incorrect. Just claims of it being so, and trying to bully me into having a different opinion because that's what somebody else's opinion is. I'm all for an intelligent conversation, but to do that you simply need to understand my statement/questions correctly in the first place. Otherwise nothing said makes any sense, then how could it be an intelligent conversation? All I can do is my part and try to explain myself as best I can, even if that means trying over and over. But the other person simply needs to meet me half way and try to comprehend what I'm saying in order to be able to intelligently continue the conversation (if they actually want a intelligent conversation). Especially if their saying my statements are wrong, they simply need to understand them first. Otherwise intelligently explaining how/why their wrong is imposable.

If I was willing to live with a 9" tread at the 12" walk-line I would make the stair width 44 1/2 inches and be done with it. To maintain the 48" wide stair you would have to reduce the number of stair treads or allow the tread at the 12" walk-line to be less than 9". It appears that the 1 & 2 family dwelling code in Cleveland is the 2006 IRC but it is not clear to me if it has been modified by amendments. In any case here it is: R311.5.3.2 Tread depth. "The minimum tread depth shall be 10 inches. The tread depth shall be measured horizontally between the vertical planes of the foremost projection of adjacent treads and at a right angle to the tread's leading edge. The greatest tread depth within any flight of stairs shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch. Winder treads shall have a minimum tread depth of 10 inches measured as above at a point 12 inches from the side where the treads are narrower. Winder treads shall have a minimum tread depth of 6 inches at any point. Within any flight of stairs, the largest winder tread depth at the 12 inch walk line shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch." Even if this building code has been modified locally, because it is has been the national standard for so many years, I would insist that the designers adhere to it. Ask them what code they are using and why it might be more appropriate than the IRC. I've designed enough buildings to know that being reputable doesn't mean you can't make a seemingly amateurish mistake.