"We weren't sure how to deal with swale that the builder created around the house, so we just had him put gravel in it, thinking that maybe it could function as a path." It's too bad that you didn't come here when the issue of dealing with the swale first presented itself. I've got to say that putting gravel in it will rank as one of the worst "solutions" that has shown up on this forum. It doesn't solve problems. It creates them. I say "worst" because it is without genuine purpose. Not only was it expensive to create, it will be costly to fix. If a swale is necessary (as surely it would be here) then there is no reason to start filling it up with material so that its water carrying capacity is reduced. As an analogy, think about how wherever there is curb and gutter along side a road, a swale-like structure is created. The road is crowned so this directs water to flow toward its sides. The curb at the sides contains the water and holds it on the roadway. Therefore, a channel (like a swale) is created along each side of the road. We've all seen what happens in heavy rains. Water can accumulate so quickly and in such volume that in some places, the water will overflow the curb and extend toward the center of the road. In a significant storm, water can span the entire road, blocking it. Now, Imagine filling up the volume of this space (which is created between the crowning of the road and the curb) with gravel. What will happen to the water flow now? It will be immeasurably slowed! The purpose of a swale (like curb and gutter) is to move excess water away QUICKLY ... before it has a chance to build up. The gravel in the swale will negate that possibility. If the swale was ugly (like a ditch) then the problem was that is was poorly sized and shaped. A low, wide swale can carry as much water as a steep, narrow one. Make it low enough and wide enough and the fact that it is a swale may be nearly impossible to perceive. It could have looked like a normal part of the lawn and be perfectly easy to walk on. (For some reason builders like to build ditches, though.) Grass alone would have been fine for a "path" that was rarely used and not really needed. Aside from the fact that the water holding capacity of the swale has been reduced (we don't know if or when repercussions will be felt) this gravel creation would likely create problems whenever anything is planted in its vicinity. The most likely plant to have wanted here is grass, but it cannot be installed because doing so would further raise the grade and nullify what is left of the swale. Should a tree be wanted ... well, dig one hole in gravel and it will cure you of wanting to dig any others. The solution for this is to remove the gravel and reshape the swale to something that is more desirable. (For what to do with all the gravel, maybe you need to build a driveway somewhere on the property...?? ) As far as what to plant on the slope ... if you want a woodsy appearance, replicating that "look" requires planting trees close together (just like what is nearby.) A large cluster of flowering tree (such as redbud) could add a lot of drama at bloom time. Consider that what is planted along the ground as groundcover will be important in terms of maintenance. It would be easier to keep weeds out if you keep it as mulch-only for a couple of years and then add groundcover once the trees are up, running and producing some shade.

You can begin using Milorganite your next fert application, when you overseed in this case. For overseeding, you just might want to suppliment phosphorus with a little steamed bone meal. Between now and mid-September. But, you want to overseed the whole lawn and not just the infected areas. I, for one, prefer Milorganite except for the last app of the year. For that winterizing application, Scott's (or other) Winterizer, which contains high content of potassium. Two things to remember about grass plants and postassium are: 1) no more can be absorbed than is necessary and 2) potassium is easily leached. That means you may or may not trust that one application to be enough and you really never know without a soil test. Natural supplements of potassium are sulphate of potash and greensand. Yes, it is wise to keep the dogs off as you are accustomed to doing. The reason is Milorganite, while organic, does contain arguable levels of heavy metals. Whether they are harmful levels is also debatable and has been the subject of many debates here on the forum. I never knew which side won LOL. There is lots of information available if you want to google the subject and compare the data with what is considered acceptable (google that too). Then, stay tuned to this thread. Since you've broached the subject, I've no doubt we are in for an interesting ride. Should be a good refresher course for me :) Just in case you feel a little intimidated where feeds/grains (alfalfa, soybean meal, feather meal, etc.) are concerned, you might be able to find some here.

Do you want a dog playground, with tunnels (culvert pipe) and climbing structures (old tires) as well as nontoxic shrubs for shade and the obligatory fenceline path (if your dogs like to patrol the boundaries)? Or do you want a pleasant outdoor room for yourself that is relatively low-maintenance and indestructible? How big are the dogs, and how old are they? Do they like to run outside, or dig, or fetch? Are they water dogs? Are they mostly indoor or outdoor dogs? Will they be left alone outdoors for hours at a time (free to get into trouble if there's nothing to engage their attention), or will they be in the yard only when you're home? If you have a doggie daycare in your area, you can ask for a tour and take note of what kinds of play structures they have. If your dogs like to chew sticks and you're looking for nontoxic shrubs, the number-one shrub to avoid is oleander. Also stay away from thorns, prickly leaves (can hurt paw pads), and grasses with large awns that can get caught in fur or inhaled. If they put everything in their mouth, avoid toxic berries. Wood chips are great for paths -- better than gravel for dogpaths, and less likely to get caught between toes, unless your dogs are older and have trouble walking, in which case hardscape is easier. You'll also want a designated doggie bathroom area. Are your dogs trained to go in a specific area, or on a specific substrate? For some years we had ivy-trained dogs, which was great, especially for walks around the neighborhood. (The new dog likes to go on lawns, alas.) If I had large dogs in my yard, or dogs who eat or roll in poop (I've known labs and a beagle...), I'd get one of the composting bins made especially for dog waste -- compact, and requires much less handling of poop than plastic bags. Other dogcentric features include dog-height fence holes so the dogs can keep tabs on neighborhood activity; lots of trees to attract squirrels; a patch of groundcover for rolling on their backs; dog-height paths and tunnels through shrubbery... If you're building a patio area (shaded seating) for yourself, then think about where the dogs will lie down when you're outside -- most dogs like to do some exploring, then come sit next to their pack leader. Make the patio area large enough to accommodate everyone.

Two years later..... I ended up putting a 25' x 25' section of Zenith Zoysia instead of the Bermuda. Since we are in a transition zone and Bermuda is not very common here in residential yards, I couldn't make the leap. I grew it from seed and now in it's second year, it is very thick and looks great. It is very slow to spread however, so I plan on plugging out of the section next year to some bare areas in the yard and also do an overseeing in another large area to get another large pocket going. Part of me wishes I would of gone with the bermuda, mostly because it would take over much faster than the zoysia, but I am sure I would have upset my neighbors in the process.