There be world different in primocanes in 2011 they be straight and tall 2010 they get 2 foot start to been over after 2010 season lower wires not need there after. Surflan and simazine mix good preemmergent after soil setial by rain I use atazine same as simazine surflan high cost just take care small weed seed. you only need V trellis one wire on each side going to have been that back to pick in 2011 floricanes you have longer cane than most people on this forum because long growing season. Two tablespoon 10-10-10 on 2 side plant first every month first one may 1st last one september 1st total 5 applications 1 foot off from plant growth stop about Oct 20 because cool temperatures harding off come very soon after 20th oct. winter kill almost impossible in zone8 so no need exspect that kind damage. When have mountains south your location its different story. But as arkanasa unvercity says all new planting need suppilment iron liquid iron cheat you need quart sprayed in straight stream each side plant this above any soil test later years 3 years down road its go by direction of soil test. Soil applyed nitrogen units for zone 8 is 125 units to max out production because of 34 percent nitrogen I used 68 units twice on grown plants first 68 units at 5 percent bloosom and then 14 day before end harvest. July first for last 68 units. In september and october you can have as much growth as all rest seasons plants double in september october in zone 8. Here is a link that might be useful: sweet berry farms a link you may like

It's been a very long time since I've read a "body bag" on a rose, but they used to have "mounding" instructions printed directly on them. In "the good, old days" nurseries used to give cardboard "rose sleeves" away with the bare roots to place around them when planted, for you to fill with dirt as the instructions above state. You watered directly into the top of the cone or sleeve to keep that soil and that under the rose damp. Maintaining the whole plant in a cool, damp, dark state encourages it to absorb water, prevents it from drying out until it forms sufficient new roots to take up enough water to grow, encourages it to form those roots instead of being stimulated to develop leaves and new canes. As many of us have seen from bare roots as well as cuttings, too much light and heat stimulates them to develop foliage, try to grow new canes and even flower using the resources stored in the wood before any roots are formed. I've had both push flowers and leaves then totally collapse because there was no root system under the plant to support it. It's the same issue seen with wrapping cuttings. If it's too warm, they won't root, but will try to push new growth from the growth buds, resulting in failure. As new growth develops, you slowly remove the soil in the sleeve to expose increasingly greater amounts of the plant until it is gradually hardened off, used to the normal garden conditions. This can be wonderfully accomplished during a longer period of rainy weather, just as transplanting and setting out newly rooted plants can be. The cooler, more over cast, more humid conditions are perfect for all of these projects. Trevor Griffiths wrote in one of his great books, a customer brought him a dried out, "dead" bare root he'd purchased from him demanding a refund. Mr. Griffiths buried the plant in damp soil, then planted it in a bag of soil where it flourished, grew and flowered as expected. He wrote that was the plant he frequently took to lectures and presentations to rose groups to illustrate how difficult it is to kill a rose as long as you know what you're doing. I purchased heavy gauge plastic rose sleeves from Gurney Seed back in the early to mid 80s which I used for over fifteen years before they finally wore out. I then began making them from cardboard boxes, even many sheets of newspaper, both of which worked perfectly. Taking fifteen or more full sheets of newspaper laid out flat, then folding them in half length wise to make a thick layer, I could take them to the can I'd planted, insert them into the rim of the can and determine how large it needed to be to prevent the water and soil from washing from underneath them and hold the soil in place. I'd then staple them closed to form the sleeve. I planted the rose in the can, but didn't finish filling it to leave a large area of the interior can sides to securely hold the sleeves in place. Once inserted over the plant, I finished filling the sleeves with soil, watering them to settle it in until the sleeve was mostly filled, leaving enough room to water them well without spilling over the sides. Many sheets of newspaper in a thick layer, rolled in a cylinder like that and supported by several inches of the can sides will hold water and soil in place well until new growth is seen. I only left the top few inches of the canes protruding from the soil so the majority of the plant was kept buried in the damp potting soil. As new growth pushed, I removed an inch or two of soil a week until there was enough taken out to permit the sleeve to be removed and the remaining soil to stay in the pot, filling it to the planting depth I wanted in the first place. By then, the cardboard or paper was pretty much ready for removal and could then be disposed of either in recycling or the compost pile. You can save many dried out bare roots simply by "heeling them in", burying them in damp soil, for a few weeks to plump them back up. This shouldn't be done in heavy, dense clay as you do need air circulation around the plant to prevent it from rotting or developing canker. A trench dug deep enough to bury the entire plants, leaving a few inches of soil to cover them fully, should be sufficient. The soil should be of a type you would want for planting, which drains well, yet is moisture retentive. Any good potting soil would be perfect. If you lay lengths of rope perpendicularly across the trenches at the top, middle and bottoms of where the plants are to be buried, then lay the plants down across the ropes, keeping them under the plants, you can tie the ends loosely and fill the trench, leaving the ends out of the rope out of the ground so you know exactly where the plants are. The protruding ends of the ropes help keep the plants together in a bundle, assisting you in finding and removing them. A couple of weeks in that cool, damp, dark environment will frequently rehydrate up to pretty severely dehydrated bare roots. I wouldn't suggest it as the usual procedure, but for extreme cases, it can work wonders. The trenching and ropes have been used for many years to overwinter tender types in harsher climates as well as to hold early arrivals which have been received before it was safe to plant them. Now, suddenly, to many of us, it's new information. There really is nothing new under the sun, except the plumbing Kim

If you can work the soil you can plant. To test it first try to dig in it. If it's very resistant to the shovel it's probably still too frozen. If the shovel goes down easily but comes back up sticky with mud it's too wet. Take a handful of soil and squeeze it. If it holds in a clump it's too wet. If it readily breaks back up it's "friable" and ready to plant. I can plant here in MI usually in early April but you may be able to do so a little sooner in TN. So you may well be able to do so now.

What I do is soak overnight in plain water. Then as I am finishing digging the hole and preparing my amendmnts, I soak with SuperThrive for 15-20 minutes, at the rate of 1.5 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water, which is recommended specifically for this purpose. Both of these soaks are up to the top of roots or bottom of cane material. One year I soaked overnight, then planted. The next year I soaked roughly 48 hours in a dark garage because the day after delivery was hot and sunny, so I wanted to delay planting to the following day which was cool and cloudy. This year I soaked roughly 48 hours (again in dark garage) because I had appointments the day after delivery. If I remember correctly, the first time I ordered bare-root, I posted questions similar to yours, and someone posted that he or she had soaked in water for almost a week due to scheduling issues. Do you use a soil mound to "sweat" the canes for a week or so after planting? Mine are in their soil mounds and starting to put out little leaves right now. [I have never bought bare-root grafted, so can't directly answer your question as to how own-root versus grafted compare or contrast.]