First, look at my tools in the picture. I start very far outside with the cultivating fork and work inside with it just to remove the soil to the point where serious root begins. The idea is to find the largest roots without damaging them too much. A hoe can also be useful for this part. After removing soil to first roots up to the trunk I go back outside as far as 3' from the trunk and begin aggressively chopping soil with the cultivating fork. Then I use the conventional shovel making cuts more or less horizontal to the flow of the roots so I can loosen the soil without doing too much damage to the roots. I gradually find the largest roots this way and free them up gradually using the fork and the shovel. I also begin using the solid metal King of Spades spade also going horizontally at first to minimize damage. The idea is to pull away soil without tearing too much root. So yes, I start on the outside and work my way in. The soil is always quite moist here in fall and spring so I don't have to water at any point. I never water transplanted plants in in my nursery or when making installations with dormant plants. I have no fear of air pockets, whatever the lit has to say. I've seen fresh root grow right through open space in the soil. As long as the humidity is about 100% why shouldn't it? The smaller trees that I move after growing for a couple of years are always very crowded as I have them in a fenced area tightly spaced (too tightly, actually). It still is not hard to move them without damaging a lot of root although it can be claustrophobic. I've rarely moved older trees that are growing closely together but you can only do the best you can and the method would be the same. I tip the tree as it begins to loosen- but gentle enough not to tear unfreed root, getting closer and closer to the trunk. Most of the final work is with the spade but loose soil is removed with the regular shovel and fork as I go. I should have my wife come out and take pictures the next time me or my helper moves a big tree to give you better images of the process.

loose well drained mix is a must. 5 parts of screened pine bark fines (usually found in landscaper mix or conditioner soil mix bags). 1 part peat moss (Pro Mix from home depot is a good one) Controlled release fertilizer like Dynamite is a must. Add dolomitic lime if needed. If your tap water contains a lot of calcium, use less dolomitic lime or none at all. I don't understand your question about size. Do you mean you have trees that is 1-2" caliper trunk or wanting to grow them to that size?

Hi Kassieb, Wow.. Haven't seen this thread for a long time!! Congratulations on your treasures that you picked up in Hawaii! I am Sure you had a wonderful time. Just love the islands.... I would always put slits In the bottom of your container that you root in.. I like the clear solo cups or cups from Starbucks.. I used to use bottles.. But I like clear cups better.. ( a friend started me when he sent a cutting rooted in a red solo cup). ;-). I take a pair of scissors and make four slits on the bottom edge of the cup.. Water once and then let them sit on heat and let them work their magic.. It can take up to 8 weeks or so to root, so make sure you are patient when rooting. Have fun!!! Hi Ed!! Those were some beautiful cuttings.. Many thanks to friends!!! BBB is Brads Buds and Blooms.. They are In Florida Laura

Don gota go with fruitnut. We have planted lots and lots of bare root trees from Idaho, California and now Arizona. None- from a rep. dealer, mostly HD, Lowes, Wally world and 5 N dime. We have even planted them with lots of leaves still in their bags at the end of the season(April)because they where cheap. All soils in each place have been different acid in ID, great in Cali, crap in AZ. It really comes down to how they are planted and taken care of. It could be a water issue or soil issue. If your soil is really rotten like ours try a little root stimulater it may help.