I was going to mention the nitrate issue, as you are both correct in suggesting that nitrates are not the best for a fertilizer source. The reason I didn't mention it is because although FP is probably not the best source of fertilizer for blueberries, I've read posts from people that have used FP on blueberries with decent results. A picture would help. I have a couple of blueberry plants in containers. I's odd that just the new growth would die IMO. Maybe try posting the ? in the fruit forum also.

Nick Staddon (plantsman for Monrovia) said they grow those 'Bountiful Blue' right out in full sun in Azusa and/or Visalia, hardly fog-shrouded, cool locations. They can take heat. They are hybrids of blueberries native to the South (as in the Deep South), so heat is not a problem. Dry heat is the problem. You would have to keep them watered so some afternoon shade for a potted plant would not be a bad idea, but the fruit is sweeter with some heat. Cut back lightly in August and fertilize at the end of August, they push out their new foliage and growth in September and prepare for bloom which can come as early as January depending on how warm your winter is. That's what Staddon said, anyway. He gave a talk and talked about 'Bountiful Blue'. You don't need a cross-pollinator, there will be plenty of fruit.

I wouldn't do either. I would talk to serious blueberry growers and see what they say, look for specialized information like Extension Service publications to see if there is anything about blueberries not sizing up. Otherwise all I can suggest is that maybe they aren't getting enough soil moisture during the summer. And it's not a pollination issue, right? You do have several different blueberry cultivars planted near one another so there is adequate cross pollination?

Thanks, Daylily! tlbean, I sometimes have an inkling of an idea, but often don't know what the plants in the drawing are or should be. In selecting plants, much depends on what grows and performs well in a given area. Let's speculate on some possibilities for here. The hedge below the window could be low-growing azaleas, dwarf yaupon holly, or any shrub that looks good and could be kept at a 3' height without too much trouble, including boxwood. The groundcover surrounding it could be a Liriope, lily of the valley, heuchera, Pachysandra, etc. The tree could be crape myrtle, Japanese maple, beauty bush, burning bush, etc. The surround below the tree could be daylilies, ferns, hostas, cast iron plant, etc. One could look around their town and see what plants people are keeping at these heights and that has appeal. Or search Google Images for the general type and see what appeals in the photos that are returned. Research the plants that one finds interesting to see if they have possibilities. Vett them with people who have knowledge of the local climate. Each plant has it's own personality which should be taken into account during the selection process. If you were to use my drawing as foundation for selecting plants, you have great latitude in tweaking what it looks like, depending on the plants you choose. For annuals, pick something that can tolerate the conditions (light, moisture, soil, etc.) It will boil down to what will tolerate the conditions and happens to be available and looks good when you go to buy.