It looks pretty good. @ poncirusguy, OP is in northern CA, no citrus greening here yet. Yeffi, you say you "recently fertilized, added azamite, epsom salts, and iron/zinc", does that mean you added a complete fertilizer, AND added azamite, epsom salts and iron/zinc, or are you saying the added azamite, epsom salts and iron/zinc IS the fertilizer you added? I ask because, the only problem I see is the new leaves are a bit all-over lighter green, which can be a symptom of Nitrogen deficiency. Young leaves are often lighter green than the mature leaves, but if they don't green up by the time they are full sized leaves then it may be a nitrogen deficiency. The products you listed are all micro-nutrients and minerals; they don't contain any nitrogen, so they wouldn't help your problem. I'm not a fan of epsom salts(Magnesium sulfate) anyway as both magnesium and sulfur are included in most good Citrus Fertilizers, and a complete fertilizer has the micros and macro nutrients in balance so one does not adversely affect another. I think the horse manure had the nitrogen your citrus needed at first, but it does get used up and so after about 6-8 weeks the nitrogen was gone. Plus with that much watering you will need to feed more often. If your soil drains well enough, and as the tree looks healthy, it probably does, that amount of water in the heat of summer is fine, but you do need to feed more often when you water more often. I would get a good complete citrus fertilizer, (not fertilizer stakes though) and use it according to the label. Ideally you should be fertilizing at least every 8 to 10 weeks or even more if the label recommends to. Overall though, except for being a little nitrogen hungry, it's looking very nice!

I too just bought and planted a limelight. Actually it was just yesterday and I already notice the leaves turning yellow. I am hoping it is just the inital shock of transplanting. Here is something I read that gave me some insight...On the topic of browning/yellowing leaves on a hydrangea... You're probably watering too little. Hydrangeas like a lot of water (the prefix hydro is Greek for water). Sometimes the tips or sides of a hydrangea's leaves will appear brown. This usually happens after it has suffered a dry spell or when it goes through a period where, for whatever reason, the roots were not absorbing moisture well and then the plant suddenly gets a good watering. When cells in the leave's tips suddenly take on water, they literally swell up and burst. What you're seeing with the brown tips is actually dead plant tissue where the cells burst. This kind of browning can also happen to plants when they are initially transplanted and are suddenly given a heavy dose of water. Hope this is as helpful to you as it was to me!

Jennifer —-(Spraying with Neem Oil and or and other mixtures to eradicate the insects organically could still harm those beneficial insects. Some people will just let those pest stay on the tree because they dont want to harm them. Its a difficlt choice to make for some and you need to understand that some bad infestations that might get out of hand and could cause your trees to become weak and allow other diseses to slowly kill your tree. i always try and let Mother Nature work on the right balance of the pest verses the beneficial insets to keep everything in check. But sometimes i will have to step in and use more than organic to combact the problem. its up to you to decide what is best for your tree. Laura Even those that eat leaves ___ Katydids 🌺

i would keep it tented for at least a month - to allow some new roots to develop. may be even 6 wks. after that you can start venting it (opening the bag or removing it ) starting at 1hr and increasing ev day by 30 min more for about a week (it should stay out of the sun ). at that point it should be able to stay open. it's a long time to keep citrus out of the sun, so try to position it in such a way that it's close to the window, but not IN the sun, may be a few late/early sun rays barely there is ok even in a tent. Then you can start on moving it into partial sun , like diffused behind the sheer or half-closed venetian blinds (or verticals). either horizontal or vertical blinds are great for creating soft moving sunlight even in southern windows. so another week :). then direct sun...and so on. then summer will come and it would love to be outdoors - but for a week or so it will need to be completely out of the sun (like northern exposure), so the leaves don't burn. they burn quite easily, especially after tenting (they become very soft and delicate). eventually slowly they will toughen up. the only citrus that can stay indoors and take partial sun (4-6) hours is Calamondin (Calamansi). all the rest of citrus needs full sun (indoors or out), and even Calamondin will not do well if kept completely indoors.