So great to hear your plants are doing better now. Amazing what the lack of nutrients does to a plant, huh? Thankfully, plumies are very forgiving, in general; and bounce back quickly.

Being in a cold climate (42F last night), I can only tell you about pot culture. I'd love for them to go in the ground though. There, with my soil mix, I fertilize with each and every watering with a 10-20% run-off, except when mother nature helps by letting it rain. I don't do organics in pots, as I've mentioned earlier, as it takes forever to break down the organic matter into inorganic ions that roots can take up. If you use a soil mix with buffering capabilities (peat and soil based), you might get away with less frequent fertilizing. I run my last round of fertilizer heavy on potassium about two weeks before I bring my plants in to overwinter. Then only "flush" the pots with water, some amino acids, enzymes that break down dead organic matter and unused nutrients; and some humic acid. After that, they get nothing till they show signs of new growth in the spring. Only young plants, freshly rooted cuttings get extra attention during the winter and might get a sip of water and some of the "flush mix" every once in a while, as required.

In the ground, this can be a different story and you might be able to fertilize organic there, if you wish to do so. However, if you see some kind of deficiency that needs to be corrected, drop the organics and add some "real" fertilizer that doesn't need to be broken down first.

Looks like you are getting a lot of feedback. I wonder if something else could possibly be going on as well. Sometimes a buildup of salts in soil can affect the leaves like this. Another thing that can affect leaves is an overspray of an herbicide. Sometimes you have to rule out a lot of different things. I hope it was merely a fertilization issue, as that is pretty easy to rectify.

Also, just wanted to mention that 'water droplets on the leaves acting as little magnifying glasses that burn the leaves' is an old garden myth. That said, I would not spray any strong insecticides, oils, or strong fertilizer solutions on leaves during hot sun though.

Thanks for chiming in, Dave. I too have read about the research. In fact, there are several studies done and some suggest that hairy and overly waxy leaves, which hold the water droplet higher above the surface, can in fact lead to burn on leaves or even forest fires. Those studies talk about plain water though, maybe even RO water. However, I'm seeing some degree of burn on plumeria leaves sprayed with added fertilizer in the hot sun (90+ ) compared to morning and evening applications. So I am to believe that the added surfactants and the higher concentration of salts in conjunction with the sunlight might cause it.

Hi David R....could you list the ingredients (where can i get humic acid?) and how to mix per gallon of water of your "flush mix"? I'd like to try it.

Edie, sorry, I missed your post...

2ml/qt. Advanced Nutrients Big Bud 0-1-3 -- supplies a bit of extra potassium which can't hurt this time of year but isn't overly heavy on salts (K ups drought tolerance, reduces stress and water loss, important quality nutrient), plus amino acids.
2ml/qt. Advanced Nutrients Sensizym -- blend of different enzymes that break down dead matter in the soil and keep the root ball clean and rot-free - 3 years now in 80+ pots with a coco-bark-mineral mix
1 ml/qt. humic acid - I use a local product from Green Buzz Liquids but there are plenty of options available, ready to use, as well as powders to mix your own (e.g. from kelp4less, which I keep hearing good things about)

I take it there are other options from many manufacturers in the market, so use with caution, at own risk. I just happen to have these easily available to me.

I am having the same issue as MacGregor except now we are in November. My plumerias are still growing and blooming and usually have already gone dormant by now. I will do the magnesium and sulfur as you suggested. I'm also seeing mites of some sort on the undwrite of some leaves. What's the best solution for this problem.

I forgot to add that I'm not a huge fan of using neem oil. I have three dogs and would like to use something that won't make them sick if they ingest it from licking or chewing on fallen leaves etc.

My plumeria‘s are turning yellow with black spots and it did not bloom this year. It is in a clay potted por and I live in florida. Most of the leaves have fallen. What do you recommend I do?

Nothing. It's the end of season and the leaves will fall off soon.

Nancy...

it is that time of the year that the days are shorter and the moisture hangs onto the leaves causing black spot. Yellowing leaves at this time of the year is normal since the trees are slowing down in growth and the trees will naturally go into a semi dormant period.

We are all seeing this on our trees so don’t feel bad. This is natural and some will fall off completely as mine do so they can come inside for the next six months.

If you want to continue with artificial ways of growing, you can. I always allow my trees to go into a semi dormant period and rest. I will keep my seedlings ( less than a Year old) growing on Seedling heats mats and under T-5 lights. All the rest will sit in the upstairs area or in the greenhouse with the heat staying around 50 degrees.

I am not sure of your practices down in Florida and maybe others in your area can chime in . I’m sure your tree will shed the leaves from the bottom up and always remember to reduce watering . I don’t like to keep my trees totally dry during the six months since they are living trees with living roots, so if you think about trees in the wild where they do have limited water and limited sunlight, they still have an occasional rainfall and that is how the rain forces nutrients down to the root system to make sure they have enough to sustain them until the natural spring showers arrive and the day light is extended. This is their natural rhythm and we who live in colder climates have to act like Mother Nature to make sure they survive.

Relax and let Nature take its course!!

Next season I would repot into a plastic pot so the roots don’t cling to the clay container . You can always use a long thin saw to cut around the perimeter of the container when repotting. I am sure it will like the change and use a good mixture of soil that works well in your area!! ( good drainage )

Patience is needed for Plumeria to bloom. Sometimes we wait years to see a bloom so just relax and enjoy. I also like Excalibur’s time released granular fertilizer from Florida Colors. You can feed once or twice a season and be done. I also will use Foliage pro occasionally, but with over 200 trees, it’s easier to feed using the six month formula at the beginning of Spring and then apply the other when I have time .

Hope this answers your question!!

Laura

mine is an indoor potted plant 5yrs old. the leaves are falling off, and seem to be more than the usual shedding. I only water via wine bottle and clay spike. just added some more soil and fertilizer spikes. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. any other suggestions

Too hard to say for sure. What does to branch tip look like and where are you located? From the image above it does not look like it is waking up yet. It could just be late season dropping of leaves in preparation for the spring awakening.

I have one plant with very light green leave, is the normal?

Hard to say without a picture. Can you post a few pictures and elaborate on its care? potted? in the ground? etc.

Am I using wrong fertilizer for potted plumeria tree. No blooms this summer. Live in coastal N.C.

This is fertilizer used this spring/ summer. Read the middle # needs to be higher for blooming. 🤷‍♀️

Well, the N is low and the P is quite high. Are you following the directions in the product label? If so, the problem may be something else. Is it potted or in the ground (not sure how warm/cold your coastal winter weather is)? Is it getting more than 6 hours of sun? Is it a young plant? Any watering problems?

Yes, following directions on label. Plant is going on 4 yrs old and potted, bringing inside each winter. It definitely gets more than 6 hrs sun and I think watering schedule is ok. However, we have had heavy rains recently for couple days in a row. I water until I see water running out of container as that’s what I was told to do by a plant nursery for potted plants. I water the plumeria in hot summer every 3-4 days. Maybe I’ve underwater 🤷‍♀️ I’m afraid of overwatering.

Afraid of overwatering: when you are going to water, first insert a finger into the soil in several spots to see if the soil is dry, moist or wet and then water accordingly.

Not sure if the issue with my Plumeria is the same as the original post, so I'm adding photos and asking! I live in Houston and ended up repotting this Plumeria about a month ago. It had been doing fantastic all year and in the last day or two I noticed the leaves browning, yellowing, and curling. I gets about 6 hours of mixed direct/indirect sun. I've slowed down the watering since it's no longer blazing hot outside. I'm a complete amateur and am not really sure the best way to long term care for this beauty. Does it nees fertilizing? Is it fungus? There are some spores that I wiped off on th underside of one leaf. Any help is much appreciated!

The plumeria and its leaves should be starting to think about going to bed "soon". Not sure if that is what you are seeing.

Luis is correct Especially If you didn’t disturb any roots when repotting , it’s just preparing for the semi dormant period. Many people get worried this time of the year Seeing leaves yellowing and falling off. . Even trees in Hawaii will also see leaf drop due to the limited sunlight; reduced water except for the evergreens ( Singapore etc)

Reduce watering and bring inside when the night time temps get down to 45 degrees. That’s my bottom low. Some will take the chance going lower to see what they will tolerate, but why should I risk the chance?? I have to many that I love and I just have that temp in my mind. I’ll watch and start my March of all of mine before that nighttime low temp!! I have most

inside and the rest are getting ready!! !

Laura

Thanks Luis and Laura! I thought I'd uploaded a photo but it doesn't seem like it worked. Just edited my post to show the status of the leaves. I've moved the plant to a slightly dryer location with a wee bit more sun in case it was too damp.

The roots were growing out of the bottom of the last pot (it was gifted to me start of the pandemic in a pretty small pot and I wasn't able to switch pots till recently) so I did end up having to cut into the roots a bit, but I tried not to go into the root ball.

Appreciate your help!

Hi all, I also have some issues with my Plumerias. They got a new neighbor plant which I think gave them mildew so I used neem oil and mildew seems to be gone but first I have no new growth which is very weird since it’s inside and get some hours of additional light and some leaves turn yellow with spots. also if someone knows what’s the best treatment for mildew on plumerias, would be great to try.

I normally use a weekly milk-water spray that has 40-60% milk and the rest is water. But if the problem is that the plumerias are getting ready to go to sleep, I would just let them be.

Looks like spider mite infestation damage on the Large green leaf... probably had A case of them. I’d spray in case you still have them with isopropyl alcohol ( 70 percent ) at a 50/50 ratio with water And use in a sprayer. If that isn’t working after a week, then I’d go to 3:1 ratio on the Isopropyl in a sprayer. Spray over and under leaves.

🌺 Agree with Luis, the yellowing Is normal For cooler temps and trees going into their rest period . Remember to reduce watering and don’t keep them to wet. The leaves will naturally yellow and fall off .

Laura

Hi Laura, thanks a lot. May be it’s actually the mite, but now it seems to be gone after a couple of applications of neem oil. Any idea that the soil might be too moist? I have those Ikea Self-watering pots and when they were outdoors they were watered as other plants in the garden (rain irrigation once in 2 days) and now I place water into the bottom water compartment.

Hi Tatiana!!!! You are most welcome. This time of the year you need to reduce watering so your soil isn’t on the wet side and you especially do not want to place water in a saucer for the container to sit in because it will cause root rot . Always allow good drainage for your tree. The first thing I always tell my friends growing ( they think the water saucer is a good thing and self waters your tree) this is always the first thing I will try and tell growers. The water will sit inside the container along with the water ( which will

have perched water table) that’s water that will

collect

inside the container causing those roots to sit and drown and start to rot. This could cause you tree to have major issues causing the your tree to rot and die . I would advise to let your tree to be watered on a wet/ dry cycle system . If you live in a warm place like southern Florida, you can still water, but not as often as in the main growing period. To check on the amount of moisture in your mix can be by weight of your container or using a wooden ( kabab skewer) or something like a wooden chop stick. Stick it into your container half way down and let it stay for a minute . Pull it out and if it is wet or moist, don’t water. If it’s dry, then give it a little water.

This time of the year these tropicals are working and you have to help them as if they are in their natural surrounding. Down in South America ( Hawaii) the trees will go into their semi dormant cycle except for Evergreens like Singapores that will keep their leaves.

The lack of light and reduced temps along with reduced rain showers in their natural areas will make them rest until

the summer solstice arrives increasing more light and higher temps as well The natural rain showers. This make the trees wake up and know they can survive and this produce leaves and produce food for themselves through photosynthesis. They will naturally take up nutrients through their roots because of the rain making the soil

that has decomposed during the winter to give them their natural minerals etc.

We try and mimic What they go through but we also can manipulate them into growing longer through artificial lights and heat mats.

I do this with seedlings under one year old.

I hope this will help you!! , please don’t let your container sit in it’s own water. If it’s really dry, water it from the top and then discard the effluent collected. Dump it out and place you container back in Or on the dry

saucer only to protect your carpet Etc

If your tree is outside and you live in a warm area, I would still reduce. We try and give our trees water because we think they need it, but these trees are very resilient. Remember less is more!!

You will See more growth when you understand how to water and you will witness it as well.

Have fun growing!!

if you have any question, just ask!! 👍

Laura

Laura, thank you so so much. I will observe them and see how it goes. So self-watering pots are not an option as well? The water is collected underneath the soil it’s not like a saucer, which may (if roots are deep to the ground) have water higher than the roots

Laura has got the science perfectly explained so I'll offer a technical approach to watering if you are using self watering pots for convenience. In my opinion self watering pots are not a good idea for most plumerias in most geographic locations. Personally I would not use them year round and I am at about 30 degrees north latitude in Texas (roughly equivalent to Cairo, Kuwait City and a bunch of other blazing hot places). A better option is to set up a drip irrigation system which you can control based upon your current weather conditions. When you set up a drip system you can control the gallons per hour based upon on the drip emitter size, length of time, number of waterings per day, etc. All of that can be manually controlled using a simple garden hose, timer and drip irrigation kit or a permanent web enabled system.

Hello! I'm new to this thread but found it because I'm having some issues with my plumeria. The leaves are suddenly turning yellow and looking like they're going to fall off. I recently sprayed them with Neem Oil and worried that I may have damaged them.

I live in California and the plant is potted in a greenhouse. the plant is positioned by the door so I'm wondering if it's too cold at night and signaling dormancy? The temps get down to the high 50s low 60s at night.

Thanks for any help you can give.

Jesse

P.S. I tried posting a photo but it doesn't seem to be showing up. I'll wait and see if it's just a poor connection issue, otherwise will repost.

No, waited an hour and no picture. Try again or try posting your own thread?

Some websites have problems processing pictures whose file sizes are "too large" (in kilobytes or megabytes) so you may also want to try saving the picture with a smaller file size to see if that helps. Of course, smaller file size = grainier picture but oh well. Just a though anyway.

I have two plumerias in my greenhouse. The top photo shows the plant with the yellowing leaves and the bottom two photos show the other plant with the leaves losing color. I seem to be having a lot of issues with my plumies!

Anyone know the cause?

Thank you!

Looks like Spider mite damage on the bottom leaves ( last two pictures) you need to treat the tree to mange the infestation . Then treat again in a week to ten days to kill the eggs.

The top leaves look like normal yellowing due to lack of water and or sometimes having lots of rain . i would let them naturally drop or cut them off leaving once inch of stem.

Good Luck!!

Laura

Thank you Laura! What do you recommend treating the spider mite infestation with? I tried using Neem Oil a couple of times already but it doesn't seem to be helping.

You are most welcome! if you spray neem oil solution mixed with warm water and some isop alcol with a few drops of murphys oil soap and mix in a spray mister Use on a cloudy day ( if you like organic ways of treatment) make sure you soray top and undersides of leaves

if you dont mind a chemaicl soray. Bayer 3 in one is good . its a fungiside, mitiside and insectiside. works grea for a huge infestation I also will use a fogger for my greehouse if i know i need to take care of a problem

Hope this helps if you need a good recipe for organic mix as mentioned above, let me know!!

🌺always treat on a cloudy day or in the evening.

Take Care,

Laura

Thank you so much, Laura! I would love the organic recipe. I have pet Mantis insects in my greenhouse that love to park themselves on the Plumeria so I definitely can't use an insecticide!

Here you go Jesse This recipe is from a friend of mine and it works well🌺

Laura🌺

Please help me to figure this out, my plumeria was doing great this two years and now during this summer time first leaves turned yellow now they got like burned. I think my watering is fine I’m not watering it a lot, I’m checking the soil before watering since I notice that the leaves are curly I thought they might be an insect so I sprayed insect killer spray.But it got worse even worse.

This is great Laura! My mantis thank you :-)

Thanks for your post. I am also in San Diego and this is the first year I have put my plumerias in the ground. They are on a clay hillside and have done well this year until recently. I originally thought I had a rust problem but there is nothing growing on the leaves so I think it's nutrient issues. There are 4 trees total and the 2 on right and 2 on left and the 2 on right are both having the same issues. The photo is the worst one. I'm going to follow the suggestions above for foliar fertilizer. If I am off base here please let me know.

Jennifer —- Check your Plumeria for Leafhoppers The can do this type of damage to your leaves . There are little jumping bugs with wings ( sometimes differdifferent colors) southern Cal has had a bad infestation the last two years ..

Laura

Laura THANKS! I took a look at all my plants and here are some of the critters I found. The little tiny white ones fly but are not white flies and the tiny green ones jump around. Looks like I need to find something that won't hurt my 2 Mantis bugs.

You are most welcome… You do have a infestation with many different insects. i can see many insects including aphids and leaf hoppers ( adults and those leaf hoppers in the nymph stage).

Many friends in California have had huge issues with leafhoppers etc . You do need to get them under control especially since you all don’t get a hard freeze to get rid of these critters. Some have used organic soaps and or Neem oil spray, but remember to treat and spray again as the eggs hatch in cycles. Treat on a cloudy day…

Good Luck !!

Laura🌺

Will the above mentioned Foliar feeding process hurt my praying Mantis critters?

Jennifer —-(Spraying with Neem Oil and or and other mixtures to eradicate the insects organically could still harm those beneficial insects. Some people will just let those pest stay on the tree because they dont want to harm them. Its a difficlt choice to make for some and you need to understand that some bad infestations that might get out of hand and could cause your trees to become weak and allow other diseses to slowly kill your tree.

i always try and let Mother Nature work on the right balance of the pest verses the beneficial insets to keep everything in check. But sometimes i will have to step in and use more than organic to combact the problem.

its up to you to decide what is best for your tree.

Laura

Even those that eat leaves ___ Katydids 🌺

Have a good Night!!

Laura 🌺