I'm experiencing the same problem! Really weird leaf deformations, including the top pair being fused together forming a cup. Some are very elongated and flared at the ends . . . will take some pics. This happened several years ago when I tried growing zinnias. So sad, cause I really want ZINNIA's! I'm thinking its a fertilizer related problem. I started most of mine in peat pots then transfered them to containers that were filled with Miracle Grow potting soil that included a small amount of time released fertilizer. The amount seemed so minimal that I added some Vigoro time release fertilizer per the instructions. Oddly, the cosmos that I planted the same way seems to be perfectly normal. I read somewhere online that a problem with Calcium uptake can result in foliar deformities. Anyone hear have any suggestions?? I SO do not want to lose my zinnias.

Sounds like the little spiders that cause the leaves to contract underneath from some of my beginning research as I try to save my hibiscus. One of my hibiscus had that, and the insecticide soap (Safers) in Ontario did nothing. I have bought ladybugs, and am releasing them at night under the plants. My hibiscus concerns will be posed on a different posting.

Hi Mark. Just leave it alone. I'm always amazed at young hosta plants and the fact they don't look the way they should. Why? They are young. The roots can only support so much plant...ya know? The stalks and foliage out of the ground are a result of the root system. With that said...if it was new last year...unless you dug it off a mature specimen out of the ground...the plant/pot you bought from a nursery was likely fertilized to make the leaves bigger, lusher, and taller than they would have been left to it's own accord. People want to walk out of the store thinking they bought a really big plant for the money. Give it a couple years. And, with THAT said, I can also vouch for the messed up weather this year. I'm seeing deformed leaves, melted out leaves, drawstring effect...just misc oddities here & there. I chalk it up to the extreme weather fluctuations we had this year. Nothing you can do about it other than take notes on what's interesting and odd, enjoy them for what they are, don't expect perfection, and work on new beds for next years' purchases. Also, with all the above said, if it's not variegated this year, there's a chance it's a dud. My GA lost all it's variegation after the first year. It's on it's 3rd year now, and if you get really, REALLY close up knowing what you're looking for, you can kinda make out the variegation. It's all blueish green and growing nicely. I've made peace with the situation...generally. Gayle

Calliope, that is true,however I would expect to see more wilting, stunting, or dieback if that was the case. While there are diseases that may manifest itself that way (Black root rot is one), think of balled-and-burlapped trees surviving a loss of more than 85% of their root systems. As for cedar-quince rust, good luck. It can be absolute hell trying to keep it off hawthorns, serviceberries, pears in a bad year, fruiting and flowering quince (Cydonia and Chaenomeles), and apples. Sanitation is a huge part of the control. The spores are everywhere, so check your clothes, hair, etc. as well as cleaning tools properly. This fall/winter prune out all galls that may have formed and pick off all infected fruit (they will be dark and shrunken (a few may be swollen) at that time of year). In the spring, when buds start expanding, start treating with Daconil or Mancozeb to protect the new growth and retreat every two weeks, every week if rainy. Every third or fourth spray, use a systemic such as Infuse or Immunox. Repeat the process over. Any leaves that develop spots should be removed and galls pruned out. I would pick out infected fruit. Just a thought on this though, but it may help to wet down the leaves/fruit before messing with the plant as that seems to control the spread of the spores ( I wouldn't worry about infection as the plant will have been sprayed). When dry and if disturbed, the "horns" will release the lightweight spores and they will drift easily. I had heard about removing cedar trees within a certain distance from the infected plant, however that doesn't work with CQR since it can occur on a host plant year after year. Let me know what your Extension service recommends.