Need Comments on Electric downdraft cooktops
weldon31
8 years ago
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Comments (11)
diggity14
8 years agocpartist
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Island cooktop and downdraft dilemma
Comments (12)I badly wanted to go with induction, but our island doesn't have sufficient wiring...only 20 amps. To get the required 30 to 50 (depending on number of 'burners') would have cost at least $2000, if it could be done at all. The wiring doesn't always run through conduits, or at least that can't be determined so far, so new external conduits are required for the length of the house, then sheetrock removal once the wiring re-enters the house. Still investigating though. Where is the electrical panel located on, or within your residence? Have you had an electrician examine your situation with your telling the electrician what you have in mind? Since you have a poured slab some of better layouts do accommodate with extra stub-outs for electrical runs; you make have an extra run hidden underneath the floor of the cabinet base. An electrician has the tools to locate your electrical run throughout the slab, and walls, without demolition. If you had your heart set on something, you should try to achieve it versus having to live with second best as you will be living it for several years after the decision has been made. Regarding your downdraft fan, and from personal experience, here is what I look for: 1) Ventilator height; the taller, the better. 2) Variable CFM capability; there is nothing like evacuating smoke as high-speed when you accidentally burn food, and smoke alarms are wailing. 2) An external fan as pulling air out is better than pushing it, plus the noise reduction is well worth it....See MoreDowndraft Cooktop Install - Do I need more than standard depth ba
Comments (14)Hi FoodJaunts, No, my cooktop is not the matching GE, it is a KitchenAid that I got from a scratch and dent dealer new, in a badly beat up box, but the cooktop did not have a scratch on it. It's MSRP was $2800 and we got it for $1200. Like you were planning, our blower motor is in the basement, so there is no need for a bigger base cabinet. So you are not flipping this house, you are buying it to live in, from a flipper, and because he has not yet done the work, he is willing to install the appliances of your choice if you pay the difference, right? If flickering gas was the only problem with downdrafts, I would say that getting an induction cooktop with a wok burner would be a good idea (they do make burners shaped like a bowl to accommodate a real round-bottomed wok). HOWEVER, my set-up does not pull grease and steam from the front burners. It gets most of the steam from something cooking on the back burner, however. I would not expect my set-up to work for stir frying. DH agrees, saying, "not unless it was a really short wok and really close to the downdraft!" Anyway, here is an inexpensive portable countertop induction wok burner: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UI882A/ref=asc_df_B004UI882A2252470?smid=A294BYNQDK07T&tag=nextagusmp0355811-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B004UI882A and a discussion about that burner and about cooking with woks using gas, electric, and induction that I found very interesting. http://www.cheftalk.com/t/68139/adcraft-wok-induction-burner I also found this expensive built-in separate wok burner: http://www.katom.com/084-MWDG1800.html?CID=Nextag&utm_source=Nextag&utm_medium=CSE&utm_campaign=CSE&zmam=29342707&zmas=1&zmac=3&zmap=084-MWDG1800 But look what Dacor is now making - a 15" high downdraft pop-up with up to 1000 CFM external remote blower. They show it on a serious gas range and talk about "capturing smoke and steam from all of the burners:" http://www.us-appliance.com/erv3615.html And Miele has one that rises 14": http://www.us-appliance.com/da64901000.html You can always look into getting the 48" downdraft with your gas cooktop, then put the induction wok burner beside the cooktop, right under the downdraft. The chef in the discussion likes the induction with the round wok bottom better than residential gas burners and a wok. So things are looking better in the downdraft department. I wish you the best of luck in your endeavor to find the right system to work for your family. Here is a link that might be useful: Built-in induction wok cooker...See MoreHow do you like your Jenn-Air downdraft range or cooktop?
Comments (29)Arezab, I would love to hear your opinion of your new range once you've had a chance to use it. I have been very pleased with my electric Jenn Air downdraft range (original to house, so appx 20 years old), and planned to replace it with a dual fuel model. (Gas lines already exist.) Downdraft on my electric cooktop has done a terrific job - no complaints at all. However, I am concerned about the impact of the downdraft on the gas burners - simple physics indicate at least some impact on flame, whereas that was a non-issue with the electric burners. I am also curious to know if you feel the quality is still as good. Many have reported since Whirlpool purchased the Jenn Air brand, it is just not the same product. Good luck with your remodel. Hope to hear your opinions, once your new range is up and running!...See MoreReplacing old 46.5" Jenn-Air cooktop with downdraft
Comments (6)>>>"If we do end up replacing the countertop, will we have problems installing a 36 inch cooktop in a 48 inch cabinet? #1 on my list for induction is the 36" Wolf"<<< Not a problem with a 48" base cabinet. Actually, your choice of a Wolf cooktop avoids problems even if you later decide to replace that 48" base cabinet with a 36" one. IIRC, Wolf thoughtfully designed their cooktops to need cut-outs a bit less than 34½" inches. (That is for the subsurface box containing the burner components, control electronics and mechanicals like fans.) Other brands are a much tighter fit if they aren't too wide altogether for a standard 36" base cabinet. Remember that the 36" measurement is the outside dimension; the interior space is diminished by the thickness of the side walls which, depending on what the cabinet is made from, will be something between 1¼ and 1½" narrower than the outside dimension. That's the subject of the discussion at theinductionsite.com that I referenced above.) But, maybe, your concern was weight of very-full extremely large pots on the cooktop? Are you planning on boiling 10 gallons of wort in a huge brewing kettle? Making 10 gallons of pasta at a time? Frankly, I'd be more concerned about the weight-carrying limitations of the cooktop's ceram/glass surface. (Some cooktop's use and care guides caution against pots which, with contents, weigh more than 50 pounds.) Of course, if you need "belt-and-suspenders" reassurance, you just add a couple cross braces at the top of the cabinet on either side of the cutout. >>>"I think I would prefer frameless, but in another thread I read that it's harder to lift out that cooktop if we were to replace our cabinets later." <<< Why lift out the cooktop when will you will be immediately putting those countertops back on top of the new base cabinets when and if you swap the base cabinets? We've always left cooktops and sinks in the counters when lifting countertops that we intend to put back on. It might l be a different matter with a pop-up downdraft vent. (Yes, you will want venting even with induction.) The one time I had to work on telecoping downdraft vent, it was pretty easy to disconnect the countertop=portion from the rest of the unit. That may not be true of all of them. Something to check on when shopping. >>>"we're just trying to make the right decision as far as timing goes."<<< I'd be inclined to replace laminate countertops now, all other things being equal. Laminate counters are very serviceable without being expensive. Generally, laminate is pretty easy to work with. Usually not expensive if you need/want custom sizes or counter shapes. Can do a lot to pep up a well used kitchen. Also, much easier to install a new cooktop and telescoping downdraft in a new counter than trying to fabricate a temporary set-up over the old, longer but narrower cut-out. (IIRC. the old Jenn Airs had two 3 to 4 inch vent grates in between the 3 pairs of burners, which is what resulted in the odd length of the unit. An add-on downdraft will need to sit at the back of the cooktop, and you thus wind up needing a very different cutout. BTW, have you seen the threads from the last year or two here where there were discussions of how to install a range hood to connect with the old down-draft vent's ducting?...See Moreweldon31
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