Planning the 2016 Garden
prairiemoon2 z6b MA
8 years ago
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sandyslopes z5 n. UT
8 years agogardenpictures
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Fencing
Comments (11)We used polypropylene deer fencing. Needed 2 100' rolls. Its been up 2 years now and is holding up well. Can't even see it 20 ft from the garden. We attached the fencing to metal T posts, 8' tall and wove a wire along both the top and bottom edges for extra stability. We used a cheaper plastic before that - deer were able to push up under it, get caught in the garden and tear thru the fencing as they tried to escape. Temporarily fixed that with a single electric fence wire about 6" off the ground. But with small grandchildren, we decided to go with a sturdier fencing material. Ordered it from Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VOHNI8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage...See MoreWhat is your wintersowing plan for 2016?
Comments (8)I have sowed most of my perennials/all larkspur and violas by now. I am waiting on another swap package to get here soon so I can finish perennials. Usually, they are all done by now, so I was worried. It makes me feel better that TJ still has not done his yet. :) I already have many things sprouting, so I will cover this week since it will be below 30 at night. They will likely be ok if I do not since all are perennials (except larkspur and violas, but they can deal with cold), but I would rather be safe. I do annuals about the first week of March. I learned the hard way to not do those too soon, as they are more likely to sprout in an early warm spell and then die....See MoreGarden tours, open gardens& garden club sales 2016
Comments (3)Plymouth (MA) Garden Club. Our plant sale is this Saturday May 21 from 9 to noon at the Chiltonville Congregational Church 6 River St Plymouth MA. We have very nice plants both divisions and starts carefully tagged and packed, as well as kitchen treats, attic treasures and boutique items. Come early for best selection. Benefits scholarships and civic beautification projects in our town. Thanks NH Babs for this thread....See MoreMy Garden(s): 2016 Video Tour!
Comments (38)Thanks again. Yes, I admit I plant somewhat closely for impact. Even when you think you've given things enough room, you sometimes need to reconsider! I found this pic from 2012 of the rear bed (against the woods) and you can see my original arborescens planting locations with the daylilies behind. I cannot believe how much everything has grown since! But each year I'm always moving things, sometimes once or more monthly throughout each growing season (the neighborhood probably thinks I'm nuts!). Even things that need moved only a foot or two I don't mind doing, because that's another hunk of solid clay I'm loosening up and allowing for root expansion! Other things have naturally spread voraciously as well, like the daylilies, irises and fuzzy-leaved rudbeckia (these are no joke!). Hostas are even getting huge now. I'm at the point where I'm composting overexpansion; wish I had time to give divisions away or sell them! With the most recent transfer of non-bloomers to containers, I find there is a reasonable amount of room for everything with the inventory as-is. I will be cutting in Invincibelle Ruby and Incrediball Blush soon, but those are the only immediate plans. I also prune various items throughout the growing season, as new branches always seem to be growing where they shouldn't. Guess only by chance really, but I subconsciously seem to like the way the Japanese hydrangea gardens are laid out, like a sea of flowers. Without an overabundance of rain (fungal issues) the hydrangeas are very happy planted closely around one another. I will be using large stakes and fencing for Annabelles next year though, as they still manage to spill over onto neighboring macrophyllas. For me, some things seem to bloom more profusely in shade, while others don't. There's really no rhyme or reason to it I've found yet. *shrug* At the current time, I would tell anyone to go ahead and try planting at the woods' edge and see what happens. If adding a completely new bed you'll probably need to chop through some tree roots unless the bed is partially raised by fill or new soil....See Morelaceyvail 6A, WV
8 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agotheforgottenone1013 (SE MI zone 5b/6a)
8 years agoprairiemoon2 z6b MA
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoPumpkin (zone 10A)
8 years agowayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
8 years agosandyslopes z5 n. UT
8 years agogardenpictures
8 years agoprairiemoon2 z6b MA
8 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
8 years agoprairiemoon2 z6b MA
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoPumpkin (zone 10A)
8 years agoprairiemoon2 z6b MA
8 years agowayne_5 zone 6a Central Indiana
8 years agosandyslopes z5 n. UT
8 years agoprairiemoon2 z6b MA
8 years agodefrost49
8 years agoPumpkin (zone 10A)
8 years agonancyjane_gardener
8 years agoLoneJack Zn 6a, KC
8 years agoPumpkin (zone 10A)
8 years agodisneynut1977 ~ Melissa
8 years agobeesneeds
8 years agoCharlie
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agojnjfarm_gw
8 years agoootockalockatuvik_7a
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoCharlie
8 years ago
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Pumpkin (zone 10A)