I stopped by the tree forum because of another issue but want to make a couple of points. Some of the advice already given here is from a horticultural or arboreal perspective: the tree is thought of as THE important object. It denies the primary purpose that the tree serves: to be PART of a landscape... an artistic statement... a subordinate decorative object that adds character and interest--"dressing"--to the house... much as one would place a picture on the wall or a lamp in a particular location on the inside of the home. It is not intended to be a horticultural object grown for it's own sake like one might grow a solitary tree in a park or a tomato in a vegetable garden. It would be much more appropriate to think of this tree as one thinks of a neck tie for a man's wardrobe... not worn so we can see its entirety, but so that what we do see contributes positively to the well dressed man's overall image. The fact that 75% of a neck tie is hidden from view is immaterial. Likewise, growing this tree for a 360* view would be 100% against its designed purpose. What matters is that plants help promote the best presentation of the surrounding property. If it requires a contortion (as an espalier) or a horticulturally unusual juxtaposition (as a one-sided plant against a building) the plants will not care. They have neither thoughts nor feelings. In this particular case the tree is trying to help make the house look less like a large naked box sitting suddenly and abruptly on top of the ground. It's trying to ease the architectural transition to the outdoor world. It cannot do this well from a distance. The question posed for this thread is not really one of horticulture; it is foremost a question of art. When it comes to pruning, I'm not sure why extreme delicacy and caution is so often urged. The fact is, that this tree could be cut down to three feet height and by the end of the summer, half of it would be back in place. It wouldn't be as tall, but it would be thicker, fuller and have a better spaced trunk system. For the most part, the trunks would sort and space themseves uniformly like a giant bouquet... and such a form would not be an unpleasant looking object. It might be just what the house is asking for, but I'm NOT suggesting such drastic pruning. I'm suggesting that working with the trunk system already in place and making the best of it is a reasonable goal. I'm also suggesting work that doesn't need to "go slowly" or be delayed. It can all be done now and in 20 minutes with no unmanageable consequeces. Pruning is not the act of placing branches where one wants them. It is the act of removing them from where one doesn't. Since removing existing growth encourages new growth elsewhere, one merely hopes that it appears where it's wanted and can remain. It's wishful thinking to suppose that the tree itself will know where it should be growing branches and trunks in order to please the homeowner's need for an artistic landscape. It is the homeowner who should be dictating to the tree what is allowed and what isn't, in order to achieve the art form that best displays the house, and displays best against the house. Though the trunk system here is a modified combination, it's multiple trunk portion dictates most of the pruning decisions. Multi-trunk small trees look best with trunk spreads that are between 45* and 60*. The range is arbitrary. It's just what I've personally concluded after comparing hundreds of trees. And part of it depends on the tree's ultimate size and location. Generally, the larger a tree will become, the more fitting a narrower spread becomes. If space is tight, a wide spreading tree may become an obstruction. There's flexibility. Someone's different view of what a proper spread should be would not be in competition with mine; it would just be their different view of an artistic statement. Since this tree is already in its "teenage years" (in "tree terms") we'd not focus on radical changes, but just bring the trunk spread within an acceptable range, seeking to attain balance. The tree should should appear to be standing upright and not leaning strongly in one direction. Second, I'd give an overall trim to the top of the canopy for the purpose of attaining a relatively uniform dome shape; upper growth is currently leaning leftward. If greater control of size and increased canopy density is desired, trim to the "optional limit of canopy." (This "limit" is not ultimate, but is only advice about pruning now.) Third, I'd limb up all the twigs and branches that fall below the bottom of the desired canopy height. For a growing tree, a horizontal line established at 50% of the height is a good rule-of-thumb. See illustration below. It will allow for raising the canopy annually until the desired ultimate height is achieved... at no less than 8' or 9' ht. for the bottom of a canopy in typical situations. Notes about the illustration: I'd remove the trunk labeled "A." It creates an unbalanced, right-ward lean to the overall trunk mass. (See the sillhouette comparison.) Removing it brings the mass into better balance. Additionally, the same trunk is set at a low angle (approximately 45*) from vertical. As it grows and gets longer it has no choice but to get heavier. The added weight will pull it downward. It's not only conceivable but is entirely likely that it will be low and wide-spreading enough to obstruct adjacent passing space in the lawn. There is no reason to be purposely growing an unbalanced obstuction. If cut today, one would endure the work of a 2" dia. cut. If one waits until it becomes a problem before removing it, one may be making a 6" dia. cut (and corresponding wound) and disposing of 80 lbs. of yard waste instead of 8 lbs. There is no reason to wait for unpleasant news to be guaranteed. In the bottom illustration, remove all twigs and foliage below the green line unless it is a desired new trunk (more vertical than 45*) in the process of forming within the accepted range of trunk spread. If the homeowner decides to accept my advice, hopefully, she will report back with an updated photo showing the result.

Crabgrass is an annual....with the first cold spell in the fall, it'll die. What you want to do is prevent the crabgrass going to seed...which is what you will see next spring/summer. In southern Ontario the time to put down a 'preventer' is in April to May....a second application can be done NOW..late June.. Such preventer will not kill ALL the crabgrass seeds.....but hopefully will kill most of them. Remember tho....such preventer of crabgrass seeds will also kill grass seeds. So put off over seeding until the fall when it has a better chance of germinating before winter. Then in the spring, repeat the over seeding but I'd suggest you put down a one-half to one inch of "triple mix", or a good topsoil or compost over the area, then do the over seeding. Do this overlaying of topsoil and overseeding EVERY spring....whether you think its needed or not. This is the one thing that will guarantee you the best turf you can grow. One thing about lawn seed. Bad seed will not grow properly in the best of soils...... but good seed will grow in the worst of soils. So purchase the best grass seed you can afford. With any weed....they love the sun.....so if you can cause the seed to be shaded, it will not germinate in the best way. The easiest way to to this is to let your grass grow higher.....3" - 3 1/2"..... Let the clippings fall back down onto the lawn where it will serve as fertilizer. Its a shame to waste alll that nitrogen. Whether the aeration was needed due to the romping of the children is questionable in such short a time. Aeration is needed when it has been established the soil has been compacted. If your lawn was used by a vehicle going over it....then yes, it probably can be compacted in a short time. Myself....I've never had my lawn aerated....in 22 years....but then I've no children to jump up and down on it.....just a dog. And a dog can do to a lawn things we tear our hair out for. I'm not boasting.....but I have the best lawn in the neighborhood. And I have no weeds. (to speak of) You might think to go over the lawn at the present time with a roller.....1/3 filled. See if that doesn't improve the ups-and-downs of the level. Sprinkle lightly before doing. With any plant.....lawns are just millions of them with their roots that need moisture. Too much water......roots grow short and the first time a heat spell...(we're in the middle of one now), it can cause problems. Good drainage is paramount. But....too little water can do exactly the same thing. The 1" of water per week is a good rule to follow.....rain notwithstanding. If you believe the suggestion about over laying of the 1/2' to one inch of topsoil and have questions about how much would be required.....this is the most simple way to figure out how much to purchase. Anything over one or two cubic yards is usually brought to you by truck and dumped on your driveway where you then move it to where it is going to be used. Measure the length ..in feet...and the width....in feet...of the area you wish to over layer...giving you square footage. With this figure you multiply by the depth ...in inches.... then with this figure you multiply times 3.....divide by 1000. (move the decimal 3 places to the left) The resulting figure is exactly the number of cubic yards of soil you will need. eg. suppose your lawn is 25" long....30' wide...= 750 sq' times....1/2" = 375.....X 3...1125....divided by 1000 equals 1 and a little bit cubic yard. For 1".....double the amount.....2 cubic yards.

That looks like a male American dog tick. Google needs to become your friend as you and your husband educate yourselves about ticks. You need to know what different species look like before AND engorged with their blood meal. Please verify the type of tick this is, perhaps with your local extension office. Being informed about these arachnids is pretty darned important in order to protect yourselves.

Their customer service has had a turn for the horrible. It used to be good. Now they don't want to honor their warrenties at all. Both my shower faucet and sink faucent have had dripping problems, and the reponse from them has been really slow. For the kitchen faucet they require that it be sent in and they will access it. So no sink for over a week. What kingd of servcie is that. For the shower they want the cartidges sent in while they inspect them, then let me know if they decide to cover them, so no shower for at leaste a week. It's a shame, because I used to be a big fan.