"The folks that know about soundproofing are the home theatre fanatics." They only think they now. They are all running around looking for the new wonder product to use. I build rooms to protect top secret conversations. Steel studs and multiple layers of drywall work every time. Two layers of 5/8 on each side of a steel stud wall (16 inch on center) filled with fiberglass, acoustic caulk to the slabs (subfloor). We close off the cavity between joists with 2 layers of 5/8 and fill those with fiberglass also, then 2 layers of 5/8 on the ceilig. If there is a heavy problem woth foot traffic above, hang the ceiling from isolation strip (z track). Drywall is dense heavy stuff and damps very very well. These rooms are often measured across 30 Hz to 30 kHz for certification. No sound can be heard through them.

That seems like a very good price. I did a quick read through, and a couple of things jumped out. There is vinyl siding, and then there is quality vinyl siding. You should get some assurances it would be the latter. $3500 seems like a good price to upgrade to fiber cement. Just make sure it isn't James Hardie brand prepainted siding. There have been a lot of reports of paint failures with that brand, especially in snow country. A 150 amp electrical service is too small by today's standards. Most homes are built with a 200 amp service. Our new home is getting a 400 amp service. Textured ceilings hide lousy sheet rock work and are almost impossible to repair properly. I suggest you insist of flat finished ceilings throughout the main level, and also the lower level, if you don't take my next suggestion. Either have the builder pour a ten foot foundation wall or go with an eight foot ceiling in the lower level. Either way. make it a dropped ceiling. Dropped ceilings provide direct access to the space above them. It's great for running new wires, access to HVAC ducts, tracing a plumbing leak, etc., without tearing the ceiling out. Good luck. It sounds like a nice home.

If they are truly concrete walls, then I think you are overdoing the wall treatment, concrete and/or block walls are pretty effective at blocking sound transmission. If any sound does get through it would most likely be the bass frequencies. if you are nervous about it (i.e. you plan on a big subwoofer), then you can put up some wood studs, batts and 5/8" drywall. Just make sure the studs are not touching or anchored to the concrete wall, this eliminates the vibration path. You are probably not doing enough to the ceiling. Dropped acoustic panel ceilings don't do very much to block sound transmission, they primarily serve to quiet the room that they are in by not reflecting the sound back into the room. You'd be better off hanging a new drywall ceiling on resilient channels (and batt insulation)from the joists. Hope this helps.

I know you have posted in the past about this product... any advice