Milehigh: I grow Concord for juice/jelly and Canadice for fresh eating. Canadice is a tasty grape (seedless) but very low vigor and does suffer from some winter die-back each year for me. This year after -18 for a week in winter, I do not expect any fruit. IT is leafing out very slowly with lots of dead canes. I grew Edelweiss before. BIg hit when I lived in Minnesota but I personally do not care for it. Lots of big seeds and very mellow flavor. Yes it is very winter hardy. Marquette is a wine grape brought out from U of MN thru Peter Hemsted's research. Very hardy wine grape and being used a lot in WI. Supposed to be less acidic than Frontenac (their first hardy wine grape introduction). I have grown Reliance before and while it does not color as well as Canadice, it has a lot more vigor.

I like these varieties for hardiness: M. grandiflora 'Victoria' M. g. 'Edith Bogue' Bracken's Brown is also reported to be very hardy.--I just added this one to my collection so can't personally attest to this ones hardiness. These tress appreciate some shade, especially in more northerly/colder regions but also appreciate some protection from the wind.--You posted a zone, but not a region. These are acid-loving trees so also consider your soil pH. Also, you might want to wait until the Spring for planting these in colder zones.--PS., If you want to help them along, spray with an anti-desiccant just before the first couple of Winters until they get established--and they WILL. Also remember, these want to be BIG trees.

Thanks Debra, it has really shaped up over the season, the first couple of blooms looked rough. They got caught up on the fringe & 2 opened at the same time so it was a mess. Each bloom got better though & I am very pleased with it. Keep in mind, my seedlings are in a rough part of the garden, they have to be fighters :) The soil isn't very good there, farthest away from water & never get fertilized. Water hasn't been a problem this year though. The pod parent is August Wedding, but I don't keep up with pollin parents. Seedlings are just for me, but isn't this a nice one. I have a creamier sibling that I like the color better, did pretty well. Not so many buds as this, flower isn't as large but no problem opening.

Let's start at the beginning. Sort of, I tend to bounce around a little bit. pH 7.9: This is being set off by the high magnesium, but it's not out of bounds for an excellent lawn. More as we go below. CEC 12.9: A nice soil that holds plenty of resources and doesn't drift terribly quickly. Once balanced, re-testing every two to four years will be sufficient. Organic Matter 1.2%: Poor, but that's normal for new construction. Always mulch mow, mow all your fall leaves (if any), import neighbors' leaves who are discarding them at the roadside, and consider feeding organically for the little boost that'll give you. Raising your OM will make the pH matter a lot less as well, so while not critical with your high CEC, it's a help given your high pH. Phosphorus 21: Pretty close to optimal. If you want to use some starter fertilizer once when you redo things, go ahead, but it's not necessary. I don't feel strongly about adding it or not adding it, this isn't a decision that has any long-term consequences. But once will be more than enough. Calcium 1500: Fine! Next time, I'd like to see you get a Logan test so we can see how the calcium is competing with the magnesium, but you should be within spitting distance of Good to Very Good levels. Magnesium 630: Very high, but not off the charts (although it's getting close). Again, Logan test next year as saturation percentages get hard to predict when you have an excess like this. It's likely making your soil sticky, cracked when dry, and generally hard to dig. While gypsum can help, I don't recommend that at this time as you already have optimal calcium levels and I'm not a fan of imbalancing one resource in favor of another unless I absolutely have to. In this case, I don't expect any issues with plants and the numbers aren't high enough to cause the magnesium to full-scale block other optimal resources. Raising OM will help with the tight soil and cracking issues as well. Potassium 74: I'd really like to see this around 150 (bare minimum) at your pH and soil CEC, and knowing that magnesium is dominating the soil profile (while K can make your soil tight and make the problem worse in the presence of high magnesium, I'm balancing that against the excessive magnesium blocking the uptake of other cations, including potassium). The other thought here is the faint, probably vain hope, that the sulfates will bond with a bit of the Mg and wash out. But let's not count on that. To fix it, we use potassium sulfate, which you can sometimes get at garden or landscape stores, or some will order it for you. Online is another option, but it does tend to be a bit more expensive. Get the granular, it's much easier to apply. Recommendations below. Minor Elements: Not tested. Recommendations, General: * In this case, to feed the lawn I'd be tempted to use urea or ammonium sulfate, both acidifying fertilizers (ammonium sulfate more than urea). With use, you'll see some lowering in the medium calcium levels, and a general slight lowering of the pH, at which point we can pour on the calcium sulfate (gypsum) to abolish a little magnesium and bring the calcium back up. Over the course of years, this soil could be rebalanced that way, although it will take some work and considerable attention. Most off the shelf synthetic fertilizers are urea-based. * The potassium sulfate is a technical mistake, but this is a most unusual case where I feel more comfortable making the mistake than not making it. In any case, the mistake (slightly tighter soil than you already have) is fairly minor. I'm only adding about four pounds of available potassium per thousand square feet. * I didn't mention it above, but even though not tested, at that pH your available iron levels are going to be low even if the soil iron levels are sky high. Any time you like, you can feed the lawn with Milorganite to slowly raise soil iron levels and provide the lawn with a small amount of immediately-available iron. * The potassium application won't impact your seeding in September at all, but if the lawn is short and you're not comfortable walking on it yet, you can push it back to October 15th easily. Just so long as you have at least four weeks until ground freeze, you're fine. Recommendations, Soil Balancing: October 1: Apply 2 pounds per thousand square feet of potassium sulfate. April 1: Apply 2 pounds per thousand square feet of potassium sulfate. May 1: Apply 2 pounds per thousand square feet of potassium sulfate. June 1: Apply 2 pounds per thousand square feet of potassium sulfate.