Practicalities of Butcher Block Countertops?
annaw_123
8 years ago
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Comments (9)
somersetlass
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Question about Butcher Block Countertops.
Comments (7)I am planning on having one on the island in my new kitchen to be installed hopefully before the end of this year. I don't plan to cut and chop much on the butcher block counter but use cutting boards mostly. There may be an odd time here and there where I cut on the countertop (sort of like now with my laminate). I'm told Butcher block does require maintenance, every 6 months or so. (If you don't use Waterlox or something that is meant to be nearly 100% inpenetrable from water.) One common practice is to sand a little the dry or discolored spots and follow with using mineral oil (and/or beeswax) for soaking overnight with wipe off the next morning. Voila - I'm hoping it will be that easy though probably will need to accept that no matter what, there will be some "patina" that will prevent it from looking new forever, a good thing IMO. I've done enough reading on this to have a sense that the faucet area can be most problematic (there will be a prep sink in mine). I am thinking of having a couple of squares of tile (or maybe a 12X24 porcelain tile cut so it is 6X24) somehow installed in a cutout section of the butcherblock where the faucet will go. Haven't seen this done by anyone on the web though I did talk to my contractor and he thought it was doable- still thinking . And now since I'm wondering if tile will be under the faucet, why shouldn't I investigate if I can put a strip of tile around the undermount sink border? Hope I'm not hijacking your thread (too much) but your post is very timely and I would like to hear about any regrets with others who have gone down this path of using butcher block. From your post, I thought you might be interested in that too....See MoreButchers block and laminate countertop
Comments (1)You could make it so the butcher block could slide out, or put a bead of silicone between to keep from catching crumbs? Regardless, I think I'd have laminate put on the end of the laminate sections...like you would at the end of the run of counter, then have the butcherblock dropped in between. We couldn't afford stone either, so have laminate in the cleanup area, and also at the mixer and breakfast counters, stainless flanking the rangetop, and wood on the island....See MoreEdge grain butcher block countertop
Comments (7)I think one of the reasons is that wood expands in two dimensions (radially and tangentially, or from the center of the tree out and around the perimeter, expressed as width and thickness), but negligibly in length. So the side to side approach means that it gets thicker (who cares?) and wider (where front to back expansion doesn't affect much if you allow for it.) Layout in the way you recommend is going to change the length significantly (for example an 8' countertop might expand and contract 1-2") Even if you don't care if the overlap on the end changes that much, you will have to allow for this significant amount of movement in how it's attached to the base cabinets or you are going to wake up one night to what sounds like a gunshot and you will have a giant crack in your countertop. In addition, going the typical way means you can run through a 24" planer or wide belt sander without getting chip out or cross grain scratches. While this discusses "end grain" butcherblock, not what you want, it discusses wood movement http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/why-did-my-cutting-board-split/...See MoreRetro Kitchen Refresh - ideas needed!
Comments (53)@Eva N, what gorgeous yellow tile! So great you've decided to keep it. If you're still debating countertops, I'd personally go for white rather than soapstone in that space. It will keep with the brightness of the tile. Another option, which you may have seen on retrorenovations (I think people recommended that site on your original thread), would be to use white 4x4 square tile on the countertop, with black v-cap or box-cap edging. Tile countertops are making a comeback, they're cheaper than stone, and super durable, and would be true to the period of your kitchen. You can get inexpensive white field tile from Lowes/HD and then get the more specialized edging tiles from someplace else. For my 1920s kitchen, I found reasonably priced v- and box-cap trim tiles from B&W and Daltile (their Color Wheel and Semi-Glass & Matte collections are great for retro kitchens). Modern grouts are much more stain resistant and easier to keep clean than before, so I'm much less worried about the grout lines getting grimy. As for cabinets, repainting in all the same color would go a long way to covering up any mismatches in the style of the doors. Another option would be to decide which style you like better and replace the other doors/drawer faces with matching ones. (Personally, I love the white flat-front ones in your butler's pantry! They're what I'm putting in my retro 1920s kitchen.)...See MoreLinda
8 years agosomersetlass
8 years agoboops2012
8 years agoBeth Jerome
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agomushcreek
8 years agoSombreuil
8 years agolazy_gardens
8 years ago
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