Hello all. Cincinnati, Ohio calling out for help. Like Rusi P, I have the same problem and have the Beckett R7184B as well. So I opened the window and found one of the spark ignitor wires off and had grounded and signs of an old spark-burnt area in the box. So I thought, well heck that’s an easy fix. pulled the tip out since I was in there and cleaned it all up. Put it all back together including the disconnected wire which I clamped a little tighter to stay. Well it’s still doing the cycle for awhile then into recycle mode....then the pump kicks on a minute or so later. No flame this time and then shuts off into lockout. With all that said, questions....did the short take out my primary ( but it appears to be acting somewhat reasonable with the proper reset functions- meaning if it got cooked I would assume it would not even reset correctly) . Or could all this be a bad thermistor? Please help

Whether it's a furnace boiler or water heater, all they need to do is have it serviced by a pro that performs a complete service with combustion test & smoke spot test. There's little chance of fire because of smoke. If that were the case, all homes with wood stoves, and our diesel fleet would have burned up years ago. When the flame gets really bad, it's most likely that the cad cell will signal the primary to shut down the burner. Most people that have a burner that's running rich won't smell the fumes unless the unit is a direct vent, has a power-venter or isn't drafting properly due to a blockage, oversized chimney short chimney etc.

Good point baymee, I'll have to contemplate that one but also check to see if the draft is in fact adjusted correctly. Mark, thanx for that chart, thats really helpfull, I'm printing that as we speak. You work in a northern climate too as I recall. You probably see the same thing all the time too, people blocking off their combustion air vents because of the cold air coming in and the fear of freezing pipes. Thats why I think the "fan in a can" is such a good idea. We seemed to have comandeered this "Beckett burner won't stay running" post, but I believe we've all told him all he has to know to make a decision on what to do.

Ah, but depending on how the cabinets below are arranged, and how much strength you want supporting the stone (if present), some space may be needed driven by other factors than the cooktop manufacturer. I recommend graphically laying out the cooktops on the intended cabinets with cabinet walls noted vs. the part of the units that are below the counter, and minimum allowable stone widths accounted for. Based on that result, then follow the next paragraph in sizing the hood. Front to back requirements will also depend on where the cooktops are located relative to the wall and whatever counter depth you decide to use. The hood capture aperture should overlap the cooking surfaces (contour locus of all pan base boundaries using likely pan sizes). When mounted on an exterior wall, the overlap amount is applicable to the sides and front. I would call for around 5 inches from the pan bases, or the standard 3 inches from the cooktop edges. This depends on hood aperture height above the cooktop, because the cooking plume expands as it rises, and overlap of at least ten degrees of half-angle from the pan bases is necessary for capture of the main part of the expanding plume (6.4 inches at 36 inches height). I suspect you will want a hood in the 56-inch width category. (I have a 36-inch induction cooktop and a Cooktek induction wok with the units' edges separated by 5 inches under a hood with a 61-inch aperture width -- the overall width is 66 inches -- and it captures satisfactorily.) Once the aperture is determined, then you should aim for 90 CFM per square foot of aperture actual flow at max blower power, and this will require somewhat more for the listed (zero static pressure) blower capability. With open windows and minimal duct direct exhaust, most pressure loss will be from the baffles, and maybe you can get away with a factor of 1.3X rather than my usual WAG of 1.5X for the multiplying factor. Hood height may or may not matter, depending on the design. Height above the cooktop should clear the bending cook's head. Very thin hoods will tend to have uneven flow across the aperture unless deliberately gagged by their filter design. We can make observations about any hood you are interested in, but for least controversy, aim for hoods that vaguely approximate commercial hoods, often designated "Pro" hoods. kas