Can I garden while lime is actively raising the pH of my soil?
OkieTexan (7b)
8 years ago
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OkieTexan (7b)
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Lower the pH of my garden soil
Comments (12)Excellent... thank you, SO. I think chemistry was my worst subject in high school, so having you summarize that simply and plainly is much appreciated! No danger of getting our soils anywhere near 6, eh? lol We must have excellent buffering qualities (hope I'm using that term correctly), though, because the efforts to lower pH here seem to be sticking better than areas such as daninthedirt is speaking of (great username, by the way, Dan). I also have a rather easy time lowering water pH for our aquarium fish; half distilled and half dechlorinated tap water keeps it in a comfortable range for them without having to purchase adjusting chemicals. (We're now on the river water pipeline that goes into town; well water was much, much worse and I could only use a small amount mixed with the distilled.) We're rural in the Humboldt area, but we have family who is mixed farming the Young/Allan area. :) Prairie Garden Seeds is in Humboldt here and I met Jim and his family briefly when I picked up a seed order last year. Nice folks. I should ask for a tour of the seed gardens someday. One more question. Our garden has flooded before. How long does it take for the iron to then get back to an unavailable state after such an incident? So as not to hijack crabbygardener's thread any further (sorry about that), I'm going to spin off with a new post over in the soil forum regarding my question about zinc and copper. This post was edited by macky77 on Sun, Mar 16, 14 at 11:29...See MoreCan I use rockdust on pH 7 soil
Comments (4)Very early on in my organic gardening experience I was told, many times, that to get adequate levels of Phosphorus and Potash I needed to add rock dusts such as Greensand, Rock Phosphate, Granite Dust, etc. However, over the years I found that the levels of Phosphorus and Potash increased with just the addition of compost and other forms of organic matter, no need to spend money on these things which can make for human health hazards during application because of dusting....See MoreConfused - should I lime brassica soil when the pH is already 7?
Comments (5)As long as your soil is a pH of 7.0 or higher, additional liming is not necessary, provided the disease was not present previously. If so, liming 6 weeks before planting regardless of pH is suggested. FWIW, the disease is favored by soils with a lower pH but not necessarily guaranteed by such. I've grown all manner of cruciferous veggies in my slightly acidic soil without problems. And I have never applied lime. YMMV...See Moresoil test results - need help w/ pH, lime %, and N
Comments (5)1) Is there any tangible benefit in lowering my pH from 7.2 to the recommended 6.5? I wouldn't bother trying unless you have plants that show signs of iron chlorosis (yellow leaves with green veins). In that case, I'd treat the individual plants using sulfur buried in the soil. 2) Do I need to do anything about my lime %? From what I've read, lime is added to raise the pH, which is going in the wrong direction for my soil. I find it more than a little odd that you'd have a low level of lime. I wonder if you have calcium in other forms. I would not do anything about that unless it's causing problems. As you noted, adding lime will exacerbate the pH situation. 3) It seems like I could bump up both my N and OM by adding a few bags of steer manure. Does anybody have any numbers on %N by weight, or lbs N per cu ft, for composted steer manure? N will always show up on soil tests as low, unless you've just fertilized. N just doesn't stick around long in the soil. Steer manure, particularly the bagged stuff, is more of an amendment than a fertilizer, so you won't be adding much N with that. One caution on using manure in the intermountain west is that it can have relatively high salt levels and salinity can be a problem here due to the low rainfall (same thing that contributes to the high pH). I'd add shredded leaves from any trees (unless you're mulch mowing them), coffee grounds from Starbucks (or other coffee shops, but Starbucks has a corporate policy of making them available for free to gardeners), shredded tree trimming (some tree services will supply them for free), and anything else you can get for free. Note that if you spread 3 cu yds per 1000 sq ft all at once, you'll smother the lawn. If you use tree leaves and/or shredded trees, either spread them on top, or, if you incorporate them into the soil, add a nitrogen source so they'll decompose readily and not make N unavailable to the plants. If you use coffee grounds, don't spread them in layers more than about 1/2 inch thick, because they can crust over and repel water when they dry. Coffee grounds are a source of nitrogen (about 2.5% nitrogen)....See MoreOkieTexan (7b)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoreeljake
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agokimmq
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
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8 years ago
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gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)