Funny that you guys started to discuss this just when I am about to start this same project myself. Here are my findings. First off, if you plan of putting a counter on top of the new 3.8 cu ft FL, good luck, and have your pocket book ready. You see, the deepest "standard" counters are those for kitchens, at 25 1/8". Assuming that one leaves around 5" of clearance behind those newer FL machines for vents, air circulation, heat, etc, then you are looking at about 30"-35" of depth, depending on how flush you want the counter to come to the front of the machine. Having said that, there are 3 prices for laminate counters in the stores (like Home Depot). The counters you see in the store in stock are the cheapest, and will cost around $10 li ft. If you need to pick a finish that matches say the sink counter top in your bathroom where the machines are also located, then that is considered a custom order, even if it is a standard depth. This will easily double the price to $20 li ft. Now if you want to order a non-standard depth so that it goes from the back of the wall to the front of your new FL, then you are looking at $35-$50 li ft, depending on type of finish like rounded vs sqaure front edge, back ledge or no ledge, etc... Keep this in mind when shopping for a counter top. I would like my counter to cover the machines completely, so I might have to bite the bullet and order the more expensive counter top.... Again, I am talking about a laminate counter top, no fancy materials here.... I am from Canada, and here is what the local Home Depot quoted me in Canadian dollars for the 3 options.. 1) In-Store counter (limited finishes) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $68 CAD Custom order counter (you choose the finish) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $132 - $150 CAD 30 Csutom order counter (you choose the finish) 30-35" (non standard depth) X 6 feet = $222 CAD I believe the last option of non-standard depth only allows for a square front edge finish. If you want a rounder edge in front, like that found on your kitchen counter, the price jumps to $500 CAD, since the guy said that they have to charge for a full 4X8 sheet, and then cut the custom size from there, in order to get the rounded front edge... One other option you can do, which my brother did very nicely is lay down 2 sheets of plywood (for extra thickness), and tile the top and sides, looks really nice, but is a lot more work...

you are all such a great wealth of advice. I'll shop and give a couple of tries to different ideas. I did have a thought about having the carpenter build me a shelf type space between the onyx and the door opening (which would be about 4" deep). I could then lay the ropes right on that shelf and they wouldn't be in the way. This of course will make my carpenter crazy... Bodacia....thanks for sharing the heat issues (or lack there of) of the lighting you posted. It's so hard to find cooler lighting for under counter areas. I can't do anything that's hard wired in because frankly...I'm out of spaces in the box LOL and if the artist doing my son's room (where the box is) is asked to move a monkey or lion so I can cut hole in their walls...well they'd probably hurt me more than my carpenter will want to when we talk about a shelf for the onyx cabinet LOL It is honey onxy in 2cm thickness. Honey was the only onyx that I could do for a slab over 3' deep without additional support (the reds are to die for...but cn't span an area that far). It was important to me to not have lines running down the legnth of the onyx because they'd show when back lit. I tell you...between designing a safari tent, a crocdile shower, chicken haven, and this freaking cabinet....I'm designed out :oP And have just one more house to finish LOL And mommy??? That's you right? I hope you've packed some woolies. It's been snowing and it's a mess of slush and goober outside!!! Oh and I sure hope you love monkeys :oP You'll see why soon!!! (the mommy 1 is my mother who rarely posts unless I really inspire her with some crazy idea LOL) Smooches mommy!!! Pharoah....you've inspired me you know :) Your kitchen onyx made me sick with envy LOL I just had to have onyx somewhere in this new house. I can't wait to show how wonderful it is in our room. It flows so well with the work the artist did on the walls (in a soft bronze leather finish) and the antique lighting. I just won't do it today because I have a purple (temporary) bedspread on the bed LOL and it's a horrible combination LOL

Post a photo of the copy of the approved plan they were supposed to build to. Does it show deeper sides with the adjacent counters butting into them? Enough room for 24.375 plus the 2 inches behind so that the sides of the refrigerator BOX can be installed flush with the front of the cabinetry? Normally a cabinet shop would make this allowance or at least go over the options and differences. But if someone else did the design and it was adhered to, you don't have much to stand on. Also, is the opening the correct height because the hinges not fitting into the opening (like the photo above) can keep it from going back as well? Did you by chance consider another refrigerator that would fit properly? That might be the easiest and most economical way to address the issue. Switch them up and sell the first one. And to the guy that commented about "custom shops" ordering components, this is a common practice throughout the industry. It's very rare to find a cabinet shop that builds every part of a cabinet anymore and as long as what is ordered is of acceptable quality and fits, what's the problem?

The top surface of the counter appears to be drying faster than the bottom, so it is shrinking, and that causes the warp. This suggests the wood maybe was not fully dry/stable, OR as suggested above, that layer at the bottom may have played a role. One more thing that has not been mentioned: is there a finish on the bottom to match the top? It should have been varnished to equalize the movement of moisture in and out of both sides of the wood. The crack probably happened, again, because of drying shrinkage, AND the wood was not allowed to 'move' horizontally. If it was secured fastened down across the width of the counter and didn't have any play in the fastening system, that's when it cracks. Wood has a characteristic amount of shrink/expand across the grain and along it, and it varies by species. Plywood is very stable because the grain alternates directions in each layer. Solid wood is more difficult to deal with. This kind of counter top CAN be done and often is. It may need some rethinking and redoing. I built a 36"x48" island 20 years ago with 2" thick solid black walnut and hickory, alternating, each board about 8" wide. It was air-dried lumber I harvested myself. It did cup just a tad after installation but it's been stable ever since.