Jamie, You sure have some great pepper harvests. As Bruce said, our season is a done deal up this way, so seeing your pics helps us make it through our few pepperless months. Shoot, we are having a pretty good thunder/lightening/rain storm right now, which is very unusual for us. Maybe if the weather keeps changing, who knows, maybe in five years our pepper season will be longer! Keep the pepper pics coming and also a pic of your plants would be nice to see too. Sandy

Terribletom, I appreciate your caution in responding, and I thank you for your diplomatic concern for my feelings. I certainly can understand your fear that I might rip haphazardly into wiring I don't fully comprehend, then go about my business till the house burns down. But I've come here to learn, and my skin is thick, so forgive me if I press ahead. "I (or others) could shoot from the hip about some of your specific questions." And I thank you for your interpretation of the cut red wire. You apparently are right about the PO using a piece of 14-3 when he actually needed 14-2; had I noticed that the red wire was clipped on the switch box side as well, I would have realized the red was just a short span of dead wire--and that would have answered my question about why it was cut short instead of being capped off like the white wire. And I suspect at some point somebody would have suggested that my confusion about why the PO used a single-pole switch (note my question mark in my initial description) might be because it isn't a single-pole, that perhaps 3-way switches in the 1980s looked like single-pole switches with a wire coming out of their backsides. So that clears up THAT question. "Without fully mapping out the circuitry and assessing the whole situation, any answer or set of answers would be pure conjecture--potentially dangerous guesswork." I understand that. And I realize that by describing the circuitry rather than posting my diagram of it I managed to scare and confuse people, possibly making my wiring project sound more complicated than it is. I HAVE mapped out the circuitry and have presented it all here as concisely as I could so that more knowledgeable heads than mine could assess it. The only piece I've left out is the origin of the 12-2 from Junction box 2. I know the wire to the basement has to connect back to the circuit box, but I assume that it also connects to the switch by the front doorway (the one inside the wall that I'm leaving alone)--because it HAS to. For one thing, in order for all 3 switches to work together, that front switch cannot be an island; for another, that switch has to connect to the second light source (whether it be the overhead or the side lights), because I only have 1 set of K&T wiring exposed, and clearly the overhead functions independently from the side lights. I can (and should) go down to the basement and trace that connection. But it has to be there. Otherwise, why involve junction box 2 in this at all? "Moreover, your description of the problem(s) betrays a lack of understanding of the basics of house wiring." Could you please elaborate? If it is because I used the terms "positive" and "negative" instead of hot and neutral, I apologize. I'm also aware that I used "beam" instead of "stud" at one point. And, having had my "eureka" moment, I am relieved to realize there are no single-pole switches involved here. I've tried very hard to be clear but know that precise vocabulary is important in technical explanations. I need to know what I'm missing, because I'm obviously not explaining myself adequately. "you're planning to move some switch boxes and rework what they control. That raises the issue of 'abandonment'." I am planning to move 2 switches, but I'm not sure I have the wherewithal to rework what they control, nor is that my goal. There will be no abandonment here. I'm not moving either junction box 1 or 2 (nor do I really want to fiddle with their contents)--just including them in my explanation in order to present "the whole situation." I need to place a switch by the door to the outside, connect it to another switch 3 feet away on the same wall (by the door to the back hall), move the 14-3 coming thru the floor from its current location to the new wall, extend the new wiring around the corner back to the 2 junction boxes, insulate the wall with the new switches before the carpenter (he didn't get to that wall last Sunday) drywalls that short section. No drywalling is being done at this time on the wall with the junction boxes. "And make no mistake about it: that's exactly what is at issue--a rewiring of the room and, perhaps, adjacent dependencies." But if I don't alter the contents of the junction boxes, I can't affect dependencies, right? The only function coming thru junction box 1 is some of the overhead lighting. I don't believe any of the outlets or the back hall light would be affected by moving the 12-2 out of junction box 2 (which might well be the most sensible thing to do, given how crammed that box is), but right now we intend to leave that box alone--just lengthen the run of 12-2 so it can reach the new switch. "But re-routing and re-working K&T is a perilous business at best." I've noticed that mentioning K&T does seem to make folks nervous. I would LOVE to get rid of the K&T in this room, but that's a much bigger project than we can manage at this time. All I want to do is to confine the K&T in junction box 1. And in order to do that, I have to understand what's going on with the "white wire" leg of this circuit. What I want more than anything is to replace the existing mess coming out of the bottom of junction box 1 with a single 14-2 (or 12-2, if that is the better option) and feed it, along with the 12-2 from junction box 2 thru the holes in my studs over to the new switch box locations. But I can't do that until I make sense of the current configuration. I don't own a camera. My DS took the pictures of the existing wiring. Would it help if I asked him to take a picture of the diagram I made in order to explain all this? Would you feel more comfortable if I went down into the basement and traced the path of the 12-2 back to the switch by the front doorway (yes, I know I need to do this anyway--and yes, I KNOW it would make you most comfortable if I said "I'm hiring a licensed electrician")?

homechef59 asserted: "Most hoods are designed for 12" deep cabinets." May I ask where you got that impression or a supporting statistic for it? I just riffled through a handy copy of the Wolf Design Guide and found no hoods that short, front to back. Three typical wall-mount ModernAire hood styles I just checked were 23 or 24 inches front to back for all widths. I'm not even sure the term "most" would apply to the more narrow category of hoods installed into contractor defined kitchens of houses built on speculation. Obviously I'm not doubting that 12-inch hoods exist, but I would guess that a poll in the kitchen forum, or an analysis of the data on the "finished kitchen blog" would put the fraction of hoods that are 12 inches front to back into the minority. This is a good thing, because such hoods will not capture and contain all of the cooking plume effluent that a standard dimension range or cooktop can generate. Uncaptured grease will coat walls, drapes, and furniture. I would recommend that cooking that generates grease or smoke be performed only on the back burners when using a hood this size. A 12-inch-deep hood can, however, potentially function better than some poser hoods that may be larger, but which fail at capture and containment due to their design, and without question will provide better ventilation than found in magazine poser kitchens where there is no hood at all. kas

Coming from a momma with four kiddos who also lives on acreage. Please know I'm not tearing apart this plan I'm just pointing out things that I know I would want. Also I do not know what part of the country you are in. We live in Minnesota so messy cold wet snowy things we need a spot to dump them(voice to text). We also have lots of dirt and gravel and that sort of thing. -First off I would want an entrance directly from the outdoors, that's a family entrance with a large closet, either open or closed lockers lots of Boot & Shoe storage. -With five kiddos I would prefer laundry near their bedrooms. -I would not want a laundry walkthrough from the garage ALTHOUGH a 2nd laundry for dirty barn clothes near family entrance is wonderful! No extra carrying of messy clothes to laundry. My laundry room is never pinterest-worthy ;) and I like to be able to shut the door not think about that :) - master bedroom closet, I do not see one. - Closet in your entryway. Again I'm not sure what part of the country are in so maybe you don't need to have storage for company's coats but you do have a big extended family so?? Would you be having hooks on the walls or??? - do you need a bathroom that your Ranch hands use or is that in one of your outbuildings? - I love the idea of an office space with books, I would think of it more as a library do you think that you would utilize that space with all that desk area or would you rather have it a reading Nook? Absolutely love using two 30 inch ranges. In my opinion it is the perfect way to get a 60 inch range for an excellent price point.