Warm microclimate to experiment with, what fruit tree should I plant?
j3707 Southwest WA, Zone 8.
8 years ago
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Quince Fruit Trees, share your experiences
Comments (10)I have a Karp's Sweet but it's only been in the ground less than a year. No fruit yet. In Southern California here so I'm pretty sure there's not going to be any problem with disease, stays pretty warm and dry most of the year. While quince is well suited to growing in Mediterranean climates, this quince variety may be an especially good choice to grow here in zone 10. First, having come from Peru, Karp's Sweet seems to be well adapted to low chill conditions. Many people have noticed that it doesn't loose its leaves in the Winter—it does not behave like a deciduous in this climate. Second, for Karp's Sweet to be at its best, this variety needs a long hot Summer over which the fruit can mature. People living in some other part of the country may be better off growing one of the Russian varieties (like Aromatnaya or Krimskaya) if they're looking for something that can be eaten raw. A fully ripened quince grown in warm climate (and depending on variety) can give off the most wonderful fragrance. It's like the floral fragrance of the best apple, combined with a powerful note found in the fragrance profile of pear, with a slight ethereal fragrance like sweet violets. The smell is much stronger than any apple or pear. You could just let the quince sit there in a small room and the entire room would smell nice. I'm not exaggerating, it might be the best fragrance there is....See MoreWhat to plant in a hot micro-climate
Comments (7)Correction to the above, Canadice instead of Glenora. I forget why but Canadice won out at the last minute. I figured a soaker hose for sure until they start giving shade, and probably mulch for life. I may mulch the whole strip. It hasn't got to be 110° here since I was a kid, but I wouldn't doubt if it gets that hot radiating off the house. Good to know it won't cook the grapes. I figured apples would make sauce on the tree. Peaches seem to tolerate our winters. Besides how big they tend to get the thing I didn't trust about them is the borers. The cherries and Rose of Sharon may attract them in times of stress, I think peaches attract them just being here. Peaches, plums, nectarines, etc. all would've be COLS=60 ROWS=8 name="comments" wrap=virtual > Optional Link URL:    Name of the Link: Information about Posting You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account. Please review our Rules of Play before posting. Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos. After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it. Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use. We have a strict no-advertising policy! If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum. If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help. Learn more about in-text links on this page here Return to the Fruit & Orchards Forum Most Recent Posts help me identify this â¢Â by alisonoz Red Snowflake Table â¢Â by oldalgebra Hosta M 2014 â¢Â by newhostalady Breaking boredom â¢Â by nomen_nudum What's behind your cooktop--backsplash question â¢Â by jgHG Countertop Geology, Part Six. Let's talk about rocks some more! â¢Â by karin_mt Daughter Helping Out â¢Â by Nexev Why micro in a pantry? â¢Â by Texas_Gem Roses "H" â¢Â by iris_gal Conestoga essence line or merrilat classic with upgrades â¢Â by jgHG Explore GardenWeb Ann's Cream Cheese Babka Perfect for Holiday Baking...See MoreWarmest micro-climate? Anyone have any experience with this?
Comments (7)Thats what I was thinking too. The south west facing wall does not get the morning sun to melt any frost that might have came. It does get a fair ammount of sun later in the day. However being near the two buildings I thought that it should hold heat longer. It also is surrounded by rocks, so maybe that can help make up for the lack of morning sun. I havn't had too many chances to see if frost is a problem there but I know I seen frost when I parked a car there. Cars always get colder than the surrounding air temps though. I seen frost on cars at 35f. The only reason I didnt suggest the south east side is because it is also in-between two buildings, so it wont get the morning sun or much sun at all during winter. The south facing wall does work fairly well for me,I just think it needs a protective canopy, and rocks around it instead of the bark I have. I have seen a few of my bananas stay green the whole winter there multiple winters, but only the ones close enough to the wall where the over-hang creates a small artificial protective canopy. The ones that have out grown it get fried every year but it usually takes 2 or more frosts. It seems to me that with a protective canopy I can keep temps up by at least 4 degrees. Even at our coldest morning this year at 28f, no frost under the canopy. I dont know when it stops becoming frost free, but 22f is a good bet. That was the coldest I ever seen and it did fry all the bananas. Usually winter is mild and stays z9b. A coconut palm I planted there stayed alive until mid/late Jan. Almost made it into spring. It dies just as we were getting 70fs in the forecast. :( Yet the week before it died we had the coldest week of the year but not coldest nights. It got foggy and temps barely reached the 40f's during the day, but at least the nights only got about 3 degrees colder at the most. It was after that it looked sick and started to shut down....See MoreWhat nut tree should I plant?
Comments (32)Heartnuts are real nice trees, too. They're the size of Persian walnuts. Juglans ailantifolia is the Genus/species. Grafted varieties are the way to go. Grimo Nut Nursery in Canada has some real nice cultivars. These are photos of heartnuts from Grimo: J.ailantifolia 'Campbell CW-1' J.ailantifolia 'Imshu' J.ailantifolia 'Imshu' J.ailantifolia 'Locket' - one I would choose J.ailantifolia 'Simcoe 8-2' - This is the other I would choose... personally. J.ailantifolia 'Stealth' J. ailantifolia 'Stealth' You will need two different cultivars for pollination. Heartnuts are Japanese walnuts. The nut meat is very tasty like Black walnut vs. the more dry flavor of Persian walnuts. To crack them you set them sideways (as is shown on photo 2 of 'Stealth'/'Imshu') and tap them with a hammer (if you don't have a strong piston type cracker.) They make a "snap" sound and the nut separates in half or putting your fingernails between the suture line will open them up "super easily" and the nut meat falls right out, literally. This is the nut meat of a heartnut: Above is 'Fodermaier'. A friend has an old tree growing close to my home. Here is a very old specimen of a Heartnut tree. My friend's 'Fodermaier' that's 35-40 years old: They would be a great tree, set of trees... for a community garden. They have semi-large leaves that make them very attractive. The climate of New York City would be ideal for them, as-well. Remember though... you need grafted varieties to ensure what you're getting. A seedling heartnut could turn out to have a nut that isn't heart-shaped. And, grafted-trees ensure you get nuts that when easily cracked, the nut meat falls out very easily. Dax...See Morej3707 Southwest WA, Zone 8.
8 years agoj3707 Southwest WA, Zone 8.
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoparker25mv
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agonmfruit
8 years ago
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fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX