yes, it is heavier. This house is similar to the house the DH and I just sold. It had a raised concrete patio in front of the house. I didn't know how to landscape in front of that PIA :o) and I don't know how to landscape in front of this one either. I don't know how this owner feels about their patio, but I didn't want plants large enough that they would obscure the view. Also didn't want the predictable symmetry of two same-size pyramidal evergreens on each side of the house. As I said above, I'm no designer. I'm just playing around with pictures, trying to keep reality in mind. To be real honest, if it were me, I'd never plant the large shrub by the corner of the house, just because I'm onery and it's one of those things that "everybody" does, so I wouldn't! That, and we had to cut down two at our previous home 'cuz they had grown to well over 30 feet high. Needless to say that they dwarfed our little ranch/tract home, a house that already sat on a hill. It was atrocious. Anyhow, thanks for the notice re: balance or lack thereof. I'll leave that to the homeowner, but I would love a suggested solution to landscaping around those darned patios. I don't have one anymore, but I'd still like to know. Moon

This is an extremely common problem in new developments and landscapes. Even if the soil has been saved and placed back you've lost all of the "layering" of the soil that once had insect holes, pore spaces, and microbes working over it. In some landscape situations the soil will eventually "mellow out" and water will flow through it more rapidly. Expect the "ditch" to expand and contract as the soil settles into place. It could end up being a problem or it might not. Time will tell. Two to three years and you will know for sure. Every heavy rainfall mowing will be a pain even after the pore space issue is resolved. If you were able to pinpoint the low spot where the water collected you could put in a catch basin and tile with pop-up connector (but you could only take it to the edge of your property unless given permission). Best course of action would be for a rain garden but I doubt the development will allow you to do so if your neighbors do not have one. In my experience french drains work for a while.....but in time sediment fills them or in very heavy rain events they can even fill with water (depending on size of french drain). We see "grading experts" making mistakes all the time. They (not all inclusive but quite a few) tend to look at the start elevation and the finish elevation and if there is a drop that's good enough without taking into account every single property and the ups and downs that may be on them. Would be a great area to plant wet-soil tolerant ornamental grasses and perennials (or shrubs) with a rock going through the bottom of the ditch with landscape fabric underneath it. Could have stepping stones or boulders going across it for the kids! Bruce

Find out exactly what you can and cannot do in the easement. As pinkmountain suggested, can you put a privacy fence along the chain link fence? Perhaps with open trellis along the top to give more height. Looks like a good area to have a dog and the trees will provide some privacy in the spring and summer. You will have room for a patio within the usable area of the yard. Which window are you meaning when you say "next to the porch"? For the bed in front of the porch you need something that will stay low--you don't want to block the window or have to be pruning all the time. For the other side of the front door, I would create a curving bed that will extend to the corner of the house and maybe around the corner depending on how the easement works. Does the drainage go underground? and they just need access to it? If so you could have stepping stones in mulch that could be easily taken up if work is necessary. Plant a small ornamental tree such as a cherry or serviceberry in the bed at least 10 to 15 feet from the house. This will provide interest and keep people away from that window, You want to give the tree plenty of room so read up on the mature size of whatever you select. Good luck!

I use paths like this in many of my designs......they work very well in the wetter weather we can experience here :-) I would recommend using a rigid edging material to confine the rocks - without it, they will mysteriously manage to migrate throughout the garden! And laying hardscaping is one of th few times I DO recommend using a landscape fabric and is a practice my contractor favors as well. It will help to prevent the rock from becoming permanently embedded into the soil (should you chose to move/remove the path at some point) and it also will help to deter any weedy growth that may be lurking in the ground. I would go with the 1/4" minus for the base but favor a larger rock for the topping. 1/4" minus will compact very firmly, almost like decomposed granite, and in doing so will limit permeability - you can develop puddling. The larger topping (suggest 5/8") will provide a better draining surface.