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Painted Wood Windows vs Vinyl

leftontheinside

8 years ago

last modified: 8 years ago

I haven't had the greatest luck with Vinyl windows so I'm thinking about going with a clad wood window from Marvin. However I'm going with a painted white trim so the interior wood windows will need to be painted.

Any thoughts if I should stick with the painted wood windows or find a quality vinyl window? If the latter, would appreciate suggestions on a specific vinyl window.

The reason I'm asking is due to the potential maintenance paint edge that mates with the glass.

Thanks!

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Comments (9)

Fred M
8 years ago
The folks over in the advice windows site are really helpful. I know sunrise, OKNA and softlite all make really nice vinyl windows.
rwiegand
8 years ago
Hmm-- not sure I've ever seen "really nice" and "vinyl" in the same phrase before ;-). Wood looks good and can be whatever color you want. (Whenever someone tells you their modern miracle product "looks just like real wood", that's a sure sign you should go for he real thing.) With modern window construction methods I don't think there is any reliance at all on the paint to create a seal with the glass, so there is no maintenance issue I'm aware of..
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This is an old thread but may I resurrect it: I just inherited my mother's house in No. MN. For many reasons I will keep the house. The original Andersen casement windows (exactly 60 years old) are difficult to close and I was expecting to have to buy either new Andersen 400's or Marvin Integrity with wood interior. Then, my brother said, "I can have someone just repair them--lots of extra paint, gunk, to be stripped off, some wood may have to be repaired." And I would save major money--my mom had a lot of windows in that house. Secondly, the hardware is so much nicer than the new windows. Any opinions on this? I could afford a lot of maintenance with the money I will save.
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left, unless you are staunchly against vinyl windows for their appearance, I'm going to say that you would still be a good candidate for quality vinyl. Factory painted or not, wood windows do still require more maintenance. This becomes more problematic in areas where condensation is prevalent. A premium vinyl unit will render superior thermal performance (including condensation resistance), and even then if it should occur, it does not present the same set of potential issues that it would with a wood window for obvious reasons.... Then you get into warranty, cost, etc which also favor vinyl. Make no mistake, I like wood windows and in certain circumstances they are the best choice, this just does not seem like one of those cases IMO. Being in the upper MW you should have access to the better performing vinyl products available like Sunrise, Okna, Himark, Softlite, etc.
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We did our whole basement a few months back in luxury vinyl tile (that's the lvt above :) ) and just love it. I think it's a no-brainer if you have dogs that will scratch up hardwood or need waterproofing (we put it through our laundry area and mudroom). On a main floor, I'd still do hardwood, because all of the other options feel fake underfoot (barefoot). But if that's not an option, the lvt is warm, soft, and has some awesome looks these days. I really think it's going to completely replace laminate pretty quickly.
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Thanks, Todd. The Vytex quotes did include the exterior color of my choice My understanding is that the original trim will remain, but I may not be clear on the extent of the term "trim" The Marvin quote includes painting One additional issue is the upcharge for laminated glass on the Marvins--$500 per window. Is this reasonable? The Vytex quotes include laminated glass for 3 upstairs windows and any additional laminated glass is only $150/window. I think i would also like laminated glass for my 3 street-facing kitchen windows, so that is an additional consideration. Re whether it worth the money---I really don't have a sense of the aesthetic differences between them. I'm also concerned about reading that the Marvin windows only have a 10 year warranty on the wood, which seems to run counter to the claims that wood windows will last many years. Also, I can't find any air infiltration numbers on the Marvins. The U factor and other specs seem competitive with the Vytex.
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anno
8 years ago
I am trying to decide between Aluminum clad or fiberglass clad. Anyone have an opinion?
millworkman
8 years ago
Post your question to the window forum anno with a bit more info than your question asks.
User
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
The choice shouldn't necessarily be between all-vinyl and painted-wood windows. After paying to paint the wood windows you could have used a number of other kinds of windows for a similar price.

You should be considering fiberglass-clad wood, all-fiberglass, and PVC clad wood. Andersen makes a factory epoxy painted wood window sash in a PVC clad frame (200 series).

The only windows I would reject categorically are roll-form aluminum-clad (Pella, etc.).

A word about categories: all window manufacturers make many different windows to meet as many budget and style needs as possible. It is not wise to try to categorize them by material or brand. If you want to get specific information about a window, describe the brand, model and configuration or state your needs, climate and budget.
leftontheinside
Original Author
8 years ago
Apparently there are less options with the Marvin Ultrex (all fiberglass) window so some builders are using the Marvin Ultrex wood.

I just don't think I could deal with a painted wood window in WI.

I'll have to compare the pricing of the Marvin Ultrex to the Anderson 200. I like the idea of a factory epoxy paint.

Any thoughts on Anderson 100 Fibrex compared to the two listed above as far as potential warping and budget consideration?
User
8 years ago
The all-Ultrex Integrity is a very poorly designed composite window that bears no resemblance to the better designed Integrity Wood-Ultrex or the Infinity all-Ultrix (replacement) windows.
User
8 years ago
The paint used by Andersen on the sash of the 200 series is Flexicron from PPG. Andersen doesn't publish much about it and calls it a "cladding" but it is just extremely tough epoxy paint. Unfortunately the sill of the 200 is virtually flat which is a serious waterproofing problem. The solution is to add a "sub-sill" below the window to allow water to drip free of the siding below. I don't believe they have offered simulated mullions only snap in and between the glass.
leftontheinside
Original Author
8 years ago
More I think about I should just stick with the Marvin Integrity Wood Ultrex and get an air to air exchanger.

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