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Please help with advice on Bathroom remodel...

7 years ago

Hi. We are in the middle of a bathroom remodel. It's a master bath, although not huge. 9 1/2' x 10'. We are going for either a transitional style or traditional style, as we live in a 1928 Spanish style home. So while I want updated features, modern won't work with the overall look of the house. It's been torn down to the studs. My husband reworked all the old plumbing (yes, he knows what he's doing) and the subflooring is in. The shower is 48" x 40". And we'll have just enough room for a 48" vanity next to it. We will be installing a claw foot tub and Toto toilet on the other side of the room. We're working on framing the shower and I'm suddenly wondering if we should change the plan. We're keeping in mind the "aging in place" concept to make some accommodations for our older years. So we planned to install a 13" built in bench seat in the shower. But I'm concerned that's making the floor space of the shower too tight. Should we nix the idea of a built in bench and do a corner seat? are those even comfortable to sit on? if so, how big should it be? Also wondering if it's worth it to spend over $1500 on a Schicker frameless shower enclosure, since we are not going with clear glass? I mean if we're getting privacy glass, should we just get a regular door? And the ceiling is 8 ft high, do we tile all the way overhead? Anyone have experience with putting a sky tunnel in a shower? We're debating whether to do a sky tunnel or recessed light (rated for moisture) in the shower. We thought we had all the details worked out, but now that we're putting it all back together, we're second guessing ourselves on whether to change things... I appreciate any guidance or advice.

Featured Answer

sheloveslayouts

7 years ago

For aging in place it's recommended that you have a minimum of 36" x 36" clear floor space inside the shower. Built in shower benches should be a minimum of 15" deep and between 17-19" high. If you have 48x40" for the shower, I would not put a built in bench in. I'd add blocking for a folding seat and grab bars.

If you aren't planning to do so, you might consider offsetting the valve toward the shower opening; less reaching to turn the water on.

Shower grab bars should be between 33-36" from finished floor.

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Comments (11)

sheloveslayouts
7 years ago
Does a sky tunnel have an integrated light? I'd just do a recessed shower rated light.
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Could you please post a picture and some room dimensions? I don't know the dimensions of a small powderroom. We have a small bathroom as well. It is 'so small' that I leave the door open when others are not around, since the toilet seat used to rub on the door, but we got a different seat. Very tight space. We also remodeled it. Put in a Whirlpool tub (American Standard) that fit into a 60" space (our wall studs without any covering.) We also shoehorned in a 1 person Vanity. We found a vanity which we liked, with a drawer down toward the floor and stuff - but it wouldn't fit because of our plumbing. They didn't make a reverse or opposite. With some effort we took it apart and rebuilt it the way we needed it - so it would fit into our plumbing... It is now a very nice, and VERY small bathroom. It is also the only one my wife had growing up (she grew up in this house) - and was used by 5 people as well. With drywall, etc. our bath is 4'11" wide *except for toilet area which is less (4' 9.5" wide) & the total length is: 7' 11" deep. I have seen smaller bathrooms. But if you would give some dimensions... I am really surpised that we managed to shoe horn in the nice tub.
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My opinion will be biased because I have very similar tile in my master we redid 12 years ago. 4" squares on the diagonal for the shower floor and 12" squares on main floor and up the shower walls. Coincidentally we are in process of redoing my kids' bath the past few weeks (it was also redone 12 years ago) because a hard-to-find leak in the tub prompted us to consider replacing it....which then brought about the issue of replacing the tiled tub-surround that would be damaged...and we would also have to try to retile some spots on the floor because a new tub would be a smaller footprint leaving some bare spots once old tub was pulled out. My point is that we also had to figure out the whole, "do we do an updated 'patch job' to save a lot of money, or do we just gut it and accept the cost as the price of being at peace with it/enjoying a new look and improved function. Right or wrong...which is always a very subjective thing....we gutted it and I'm thrilled. I was not interested in painting my cabinets just to have them have peel-issues due to steam, and we also got rid of the tub altogether and opted for a stand-up/walk-in shower for my older kids. Resale was considered on this issue...but by the time we move, someone can either love it as we've made it, or we will price the house with an "allowance" in mind. The old space had hot-chocolate colored walls and 'slate' porcelain floor and tub surround...an overall warm and cozy feel but also tired and dated. The new space is a porcelain 'marble' hex with white subway walk-in shower that is awaiting glass doors...an overall calming feeling that is also bright and fresh. I now actually wish SO BADLY that I was able to redo/retile MY whole bathroom (tile similar to yours). And there's nothing wrong with my bathroom, and a planned paint job on the walls will help me like it even more...... In my kids' bathroom, however, even unfinished with the floor and shower tile installed just waiting for the rest to come together (waiting on backordered tile base moulding) ......... I walk in and just smile and breathe deeply because of the way the space now makes me feel :) So my very biased vote is to gut it ;) ;)
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You want to stare in an open door and see a TOILET first? The door will always be closed? No........it wont : ) Yes, sorry. So simple! Cut the linen width to 18. Cut the vanity to 66 inches, and shower to 30 inches width. You will freak when I say that, but. When you shower in a TUB shower, you are standing in a width of about 21 inches! So the 30 is actually quite decent. Otherwise? Eliminate the linen next to vanity, and put a low storage beneath the window, left of entry door 30 wide and 18 deep.. That would keep the vanity size at 72, and shower width as well. That's the best, actually. The master door entry needs to move in any scenario.
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sheloveslayouts
7 years ago
Do you have at least 30" of clear floor space between the front of the tub and toilet across the room to the shower?

Do you have 36" of wall width behind the toilet?
sheloveslayouts
7 years ago
Here's one more thing to note... my mother-in-law has some mobility and pain issues. I wouldn't have thought about the importance of the toilet paper dispenser location without hearing from her. This guide is worth considering. TP holder should be 9-12" in front of toilet and 26" above the floor.

If you're adding blocking for the toilets...
pcodi
Original Author
7 years ago
Wow, thank you so much benjesbride! Yes, I have about 45 inches from front of shower across to the clawfoot tub. And we are enlarging the door opening (to fit the tub in there!) And if we go with the 13" built in bench (will it matter if it's 2" shy of 15"? then we'd be at a floor space of 48" x 35" so we'd be cutting it pretty close. And I just measured, behind the toilet area there's about 33" width to the tub edge. However the toilet is a slim profile, so I'm assuming that will help? Seems like all of our measurements are pretty tight! And I would not have thought at all about the TP location. Thank you!
sheloveslayouts
7 years ago
I'm in the process of designing an aging friendly apartment in our daylight basement, so I'm totally studying all these guidelines :-) Good luck with your project! It's very wise to be thinking of how your bathroom will serve you and your guests into the future.
pcodi
Original Author
7 years ago
bejesbride, do you mind if I ask what app you use to create the shower diagram you posted? Are there free ones that are good?
sheloveslayouts
7 years ago
Oh! I wish I could easily draw things like that. I clipped them from the NKBA Kitchens and Bathrooms with access guidelines book. I think it's around $10 on amazon for the kindle version. It's been an invaluable tool in planning our house and now this apartment for my folks. If it were paperback it would be totally worn out!
pcodi thanked sheloveslayouts
cpartist
7 years ago
I would do fold down shower seat. Fold Down Shower Seat

Or buy a teak shower stool that you can bring in and out of the shower. Shower Stools

I personally prefer tiling overhead because it is easier to keep clean, especially in an 8' high shower.

Most regular shower doors look a lot better than the ones we remember as kids. Even with the hardware, they're sleeker looking. So either way would work.
pcodi thanked cpartist
pcodi
Original Author
7 years ago
Thank you cpartist. But my husband had an accident a few years ago with a fold down shower bench seat at his work gym.. I guess moisture had gotten behind the wall it was mounted to, and the whole bench fell off the tiled wall, taking a 3-4 foot section of tile with it, and collapsed on his back! He's had back trouble since then. (can you believe the BIG electronics company--think, the biggest one in the world!!-- he worked at, claimed no responsibility!!! Although they had it immediately torn down!) anyways, due to that bad experience, he wants nothing to do with fold down bench seats. Understandable. But yes, I think you're right about the tile up on the high ceiling. Easier to clean. Thanks.
sheloveslayouts
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Can you do a 40-42" vanity to make room in the shower? I'm not certain, but I think that 6 inches would be more useful in the shower than the vanity. Especially for someone with a history of back injury.

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