Hydronic Radiant vs Forced Air
mojomom
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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8 years agolast modified: 8 years agomojomom
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Steam vs. Hot Water vs. Force Air
Comments (8)Stick with the steam that is the most confort as far as its not dry heat like a forced hot air. Why anyone would go to forced out air is just taking the cheap way out. A hot coil in an air handler will work better. Also have e you thought of radiant floor system at all or off the return of your boiler you can have a circulaing pump and add baseboard to the new room. if 75 gallon water heater isn't cutting it you may want to try a tankless water heater. Don't go with forced hot air you wont be happy. Here would be my options that you can run by a good plumber. 1 tankless water heater to do radiant floor or coil on a air handler, with a heat exchanger you can also do domestic water and never worry about hot water. the neg side about this is tankles has to be on a maintnace program for scalling and general PM. 2 put a B&G pump on the return of your steamn boiler and use that hot water to do a basboard or new radiaters in your new addition. for your a/c I would go witgh a ductless systeem if its only one big room. here are the three manufactures I would go with 1. tankless I would go with takagi ( make sure its sized correctly) 2. air handler I would go with first company. 3. fujutsi if you where using a ductless. If it was my house I would use high baseboard and heat it only to 140 degrees stick that on a tankless water heater and get my domestic hot water thrue that also. or radiant floor instead of baseboard. Use the fujitsu unit for the a/c of the house....See Morehydronic subfloor heating retrofit or forced air?
Comments (2)A small electric boiler will provide all the water radiant heat you need. It's instant heat and does not maintain a temperature, which means it only heats when there is a call for heat. They are common in the West and Northwest....See MoreRadiant heat vs Forced Hot Air
Comments (19)Chisue, I'd say 4K is probably not a bad bid. It is more expensive to retrofit than to install originally and it isn't quite as simple as just running some pipe under your existing floor. I don't see that the value of a 5K home in your neighborhood has much of impact on the conversation. From experience, the cost difference in many home retrofits and repairs in a high value RE value area, in the range you mention, and another in a low cost area, is not that much except when transportation costs of materials is at issue. In fact some services and inputs are more expensive in our lower home value area than in our higher value area, simply because more local trades that do higher end type installs are available and competing for work. From our experience we have to often hire someone from the nearby city --45 miles away -- to do the work and that does come at an up charge, understandably. There is also the fact that smaller jobs also cost proportionately more than larger jobs anywhere. It might help if you don't put down the trades as simpletons. If don't like the bid or can't afford that price, why don't you just go hire someone off the streets to install the tubing, direct the job yourself and just ask a master plumber to make a call to hook it up. LOL. Be sure to pull the correct building permit if ine is required -- it often is for additions to mechanical and plumbing systems....See MoreNew Build - Forced Hot Air vs. Radiant
Comments (19)"Banks do not care how extra your HVAC is. They will not loan you more money for that feature. Your home will not appraise for more for that feature. Upgrades like this come out of your pocket in cash." Not so. Lender loans when your: Credit score: Most lenders will require you to have a minimum credit score of 620 or higher in order to qualify for a construction loan. Debt-to-income (DTI) ratio: Your lender will also look at your DTI ratio, which compares your recurring monthly debts to your gross monthly income. Down payment: You’ll likely be required to come up with a down payment of 20% when taking out a construction loan. Choice of builder: In addition to examining your financial history, your lender will also want to approve the builder that will be constructing your new home to ensure they are licensed and insured. Construction plan: In addition to your choice of builder, your lender will also need to approve your construction plan. Generally speaking, the more information that you’re able to provide your lender, the better. A signed contract, blueprints, a line-item budget and a payment schedule are all examples of documentation your lender may want to see. As long as you are credit worthy and the lender approves the construction plan, you are good to go. And, in our experience, our "specialty" flexible heating/cooling system did indeed add, considerably, to the value of our home. OP hasn't shared any financial information . If cash is in hand, then all decisions are a personal/financial choice....See MoreJonnygun
8 years agoUser
8 years agochisue
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoUser
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agogeoffrey_b
8 years agoUser
8 years agogeoffrey_b
8 years ago
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