Because I am cheap
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8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
8 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agoRelated Discussions
While aerating, add compost, fertilizer, seed???
Comments (7)Yes. When you apply a pre-M it is essentially creating a soil barrier where any seed is either already coated or will come in contact with soil that has been coated (say if blown in from a neighbor's yard). Think of it like a blanket. Now when you go and pop holes in that blanket you potentially expose new weed seeds that were dormant under the soil (and not in contact with the pre-M), and more importantly you now leave pockets in the lawn that weed seeds could enter from the air. Basically you're partially negating the purpose of the pre-M. I think not doing a pre-M would be a very bad idea. Thin areas WITH poa already present (ie producing seed shortly or already) are just asking to be completely taken over. Remember that compost IS a fertilizer (in a sense). While not a large dose of nitrogen like a chemical fertilizer, it does provide benefits to the soil through the biological organisms it houses (break down of thatch if present, better environment for the grass by reducing moisture loss, etc.). So no I would not fertilize until 5/12 to attempt to reduce the propagation of poa. But we're seriously talking 2 weeks here. Split the difference and do it next week (5th)! As mentioned before seed is not for you so the idea of planting plugs (sprigs) is exactly what you should do, after you aerate the compacted areas, plant the plugs (look up the proper way to prep the ground for plugs), and then apply a thin layer of compost. Then keep those newly planted areas from drying out....See MoreIs this just because i have a cheap machine??
Comments (9)It might help if you make a row of stitches, about 8" long and look at both sides closely. When looking at the underside, if it appears that the stitch in the form of a loop is loose, the top tension needs tightened. This will work in reverse for the top side. I have a Euro-Pro now and I don't have any problems making adjustments, but for years I sewed with a no-name, first making curtains for our house, baby clothes, casual clothes and later I sewed for other people, making anything from casual to bridesmaid gowns and wedding gowns, etc. It served me well, but the one I have now has a lot of features and stitches the other one did not, and I am now back only sewing for my home and family. My husband was an industrial sewing machine mechanic for years, and people also had him check their home machines. I know this sounds so basic, but the very first thing he checked was if the machine was threaded properly. I have sometimes been in a hurry and threaded it wrong myself. My first machine had a boddin case that you could adjust the tension on. It takes practice, but give the thread a pull, and if the bobbin feels real free (like it spins the bobbin), tighten it slightly. For the top tension make sure the pressure foot is down and then pull the thread. It should be free enough to pull without a struggle. Sorry I got so long. I started sewing in 4-H when I was 10 years old and really have enjoyed it ever since. Good luck. Jane...See MoreWhat can I say? I am cheap!
Comments (6)Measure your 3 windows, unless they are very small not sure you have enough material. it is very nice tho, I would want to reuse it too. Usually need a hem, probably could use the holes to go through the rings on a rod for 2 of them.??? Would be nice covering for small pantry off kitchen. Top & bottom curtains?? Lots to think about!! AVERAGE SHOWER CURTain is 72 in wide. If windows were all together in a row could cut bottom part with enough for hem at top & hem the top piece & just have them run all across the lower part of windows. Usually want 1 1/2 times width as the window at least.30 in. wide window =45 in wide fabric. They are using them less than that on some I've seen so don't know if I'm helping you or driving you nuts!! Good Luck! Jan...See Moreupdate: knowing my limits in diy decorating
Comments (12)Thanks everyone I am so happy with the outcome. cyn427 - rustoleum was a long process not really hard but lots of wait and dry time. 3 days for each top coat. Everything else was pretty easy even the rocks not as hard as I thought. If you do try it be sure to remove sink etc I have seen it done without removal and it is just plain tacky. Sandy 1963- The birds are my favorite part up there it is still in progress not really happy with the rest yet. Total cost under $800...See MoreUser
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agofloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
8 years agoNHBabs z4b-5a NH
8 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years agoken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years agoUser
8 years agoUser
8 years agoUser
8 years ago
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK