So frustrated... Need a sanity check
9 years ago
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Sanity check: how does my GC experience measure up?
Comments (15)I guess my perspective is a bit different. Maybe I've been more fortunate in the two GC's we've worked with. The GC for our initial remodel generally took responsibility for the work of any work that he arranged for. We never had a change order because one of the workers made a mistake that needed to be corrected. There was an allowance for cabinet hardware (pulls) and it would have covered a reasonable choice such as the Amerock pulls that we considered. We decided to use the larger Schaub higher end pulls which went over the allowance so we had to pay for that, but the original allowance wasn't out of line with good materials. He generally kept us informed of the plans for work ahead of time. He and his workers did a good job of ensuring that our home and the prior parts of the work were undamaged by work - e.g. putting hardboard down on the wood floors which we weren't replacing to protect them from cabinets and appliances being installed, doorways were masked whenever there was messy work. Before work started, they went through the house and asked us to take pictures down from the other side of walls they would be working on so I felt they were pretty cautious about taking care of our things. I can't recall any damage occurring. Junk or dirt was never left around at the end of each day. They would sweep the floor if necessary, consolidate their equipment into a part of the room we didn't need to walk through, etc. I guess I didn't notice whether they locked up when they left for lunch breaks and we weren't home. My husband is retired and I work from home so generally one of us was there. They had a key and did lock up if we weren't there at the end of the day. They weren't perfect. On the down side, we did from time to time notice something that they were doing that needed correction. We checked progress every day and let the GC or the worker know right away and they would correct it or explain satisfactorily why what was done was correct. Sometimes we would spot a potential problem before the contractor and workers were aware of it. For example, the back side of our island had a row of 12" wide cabinets facing the ends and 12" deep cabinets facing the back. It turns out that the cabinet manufacturer makes 12" deep cabinets a tiny fraction of an inch over 12" and the 12" wide cabinets are spot on so a small shim was needed to even them up. That broke down at the very end over issues with the vent hood. The roof jack they installed was too small for our high CFM hood and we felt that they hadn't mounted the hood securely. They didn't agree that either was a problem so we brought in an appliance installer who agreed with us and changed the roof jack and mounted the hood properly. The GC got in a huff and terminated the contract. All the rest of the work was pretty much done at that point (final inspection was complete) and final less than $2 K payment that we didn't have to make covered our costs for the appliance guy, roof jack, roofing guy and some minor paint touch up. While our spotting things and helping come up with ways to correct them saved them some time and cost, there were clearly times when dealing with such hands on involvement stressed them out....See MoreAnother Ipe Deck-need sanity check
Comments (1)Hi wujohn, Wow lots of questions here! Let's see if we can lend a helping hand. 1) The finish you choose should be oil based and must be designed in some way for hardwoods. Ipe grain is very dense and doesn't like to absorb a lot of finish and it has A LOT of natural oils. As we know water and oil don't mix well so the oil boards will push out any water based finishes. Given you're only doing 12" of open air space (we recommend 18") we would suggest finishing all 4 sides. To provide a "moisture barrier" at the bottom. This doesn't guarantee against cupping, but it'll help! 2) Do what you must to allow water to quickly leave the area under the deck. The less standing water the better the chances of your boards not cupping. 3) 4/4 or 1x6 decking is prone to more movement. The thinner and wider the material the easier it is for it to move. If you want to give your deck a fighting chance always go with the narrowest and thickest board. In this case 5/4x4 would be recommended. If your budget doesn't allow for that, try the 21mmx6 boards it's almost the full inch of 5/4x6 but at a fraction of the price. 4) There's many systems out there, we haven't had any experience with the Pro Plug, but we do have a Drill & Drive that'll do the same job and it has worked great for some of our contractors. 5) 2 weeks should be enough for it to acclimate to your environment. You're good! 6) Ipe comes in a variety of colors from dark green to dark brown and some red hues here and there. Just ensure that if you're paying for premium decking there aren't any cracked open knots on both sides of the boards or that you're given boards with sapwood. If you wish to get some more pricing and information please feel free to reach us at 1-877-232-3915. We're actually manufacturers and suppliers of Ipe and other Brazilian hardwoods. We own one of the largest mills in Brazil and sell directly to homeowners and professionals. We have four locations throughout the US and can ship anywhere in the world via LTL carrier. Hope this helps you in your project!...See MoreSanity Check my Design Ideas
Comments (10)Yardvaark- Thanks for your detailed reply! I am more than happy to give you more information! My biggest constraint is just the size and shape of the space. It is narrow and the current layout is not making it very inviting / usable. All other issues are secondary to improving the flow, but since they are still worth mentioning I will answer your questions. Sun vs shade: We would probably appreciate more shade - that's one reason I have added a pergola in my design. But we actually do get a lot of shade from the back fence and surrounding structures, and I actually enjoy some sun, so I don't want to go overboard trying to get more shade. Existing grass: The funny thing is that I specifically picked a photo that would show the grass in addition to the patio, but I guess the grass area is so small that you missed it. I probably should have added annotations (or more photos). Here is a better view of the just the grass. You can see the awful shrubbery that eats into the grass area and makes it feel very claustrophobic. The whole area, shrubbery included, is about 15' wide. External views: For the most part we are trying to block the views. But I also don't want to eat into my space, so want to avoid anything huge like the above shrubbery. I'd rather have the bad views and more usable / better flowing space. Here are some views of what you can see from the current deck: [See how the stairs lead to a dead space? I hate this.] Other parts of the yard: I have left out the two sides of my house, but I will give you more details. On the left side there is a very narrow alley that holds the trash cans and has a gate to our driveway. There is nothing to be done in that alley. On the right side, where you can see an AC unit in my design, there is a little space that I am using for vegetable gardening. The fence is at an angle, so it get's very narrow and then comes to a dead end. Here is a photo that shows it better. I do need to have good access to this part of the yard, but I was hoping to have some separation (like the pergola) because my vegetable gardens tend to be untidy. Sq feet of patio needed: Not sure about this. I need enough for a table and I'd like to fit a pergola over the table. I would also like to keep a big enough strip so kids can push their toys around (these plastic wheels don't work well in grass). My total sq ft is so limited, so I think I'm just trying to get as much as possible out of the space. But I also want grass, so just trying to make this all fit together somehow. Grill: You are right to point this out, and I do want the grill as close to the kitchen as possible. But I don't think you are supposed to put it against the wall of the house, are you? So that's why I had it against the fence. Currently we have it on the deck, but I think that is also technically a fire hazard because it is under a roof. Definitely open to other suggestions. I had thought about doing a built-in grill, but my husband says he wants flexibility to move it, so that idea is out. gardengal48 - Really appreciate your comments on the deck! In fact, my first attempts at designing this were to *increase* the size of the deck. But when I do that it ends up creating a very narrow passage between the deck and the back fence. And it effectively cuts the yard into 2 halves. Once I saw it on paper I decided it was bad for flow. So in the current ideas I reduced it to more of a landing, just as you said. To give you more idea of scale, the current deck is 5' by 17' and my new design would reduce it to 3' by 9'. (The reason I did 9' wide is because there is a sliding glass door, so it has to be wide enough for that.) The whole distance from the wall of the house to the back fence is 22', so I just don't have a lot of space to work with....See MoreDual fuel heat pump efficiency - need a sanity check in my logic
Comments (9)Ok, you've confused efficiency with actual cost. Very easy to do. Gas will always be the least efficient, because some of the heat is exhausted out thru the flue of the home. When natural gas is burned properly, the exhaust is carbon dioxide and more efficient furnaces will also produce some condensation along with that carbon dioxide. (CO2) When there is improper combustion the furnace can produce carbon monoxide. (CO) In most instances of this there is a lack of combustion air, improper installation etc. A heat pump will never produce any exhaust 'at the home' of which it is installed. Heat Pump efficiency: there is no exhaust 'at your home' to run the heat pump. Depending on how the electricity is produced in your state. Some power plants use natural gas for power production... so in reality there is 'efficiency' losses thru waste or exhaust fumes. Dual fuel options: Prices change over time and thru various times gas costs can run higher. But with large recent discoveries natural gas will likely be the cheaper option, especially for areas that have average daily temperatures below 32 degrees. A heat pump loses efficiency due to running defrost mode when temperatures are less than 32 degrees out side. If your electric rate is high in your area then you would likely pay more to run a heat pump than you would a natural gas furnace. Heat pumps mainly exist for those who do not have gas available in their area, as compared to electric strip heat the cost effectiveness can pay for the heat pump within a few seasons. Typically in a electric strip set up for an average home you could have 4 heat strips that run 20 amps per strip. Under full load that is 80 amps. In comparison a modern day heat pump running in heat mode may use 10-15 amps under full load. Those operational savings in comparison to electric strip heat add up quick....See MoreRelated Professionals
Arcadia Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Clute Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · College Park Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Manchester Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Redmond Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Blasdell Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Independence Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Mesquite Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Sweetwater Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Langley Park Cabinets & Cabinetry · Los Altos Cabinets & Cabinetry · Sunset Cabinets & Cabinetry · Town 'n' Country Cabinets & Cabinetry · Warr Acres Cabinets & Cabinetry · Hermosa Beach Tile and Stone Contractors- 9 years ago
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