Pretty much any of those things will be OK. I almost always chop the plants at the soil level with a shovel and leave the roots to rot. If they're in the way of a second plant, then they can just be pulled when putting in that second plant. Much of the upper (chopped) parts end up as mulch or in the compost pile; either one depends on how badly I want mulch that day but it really doesn't matter much. I don't till, but that is something that works for me and your mileage will definitely vary.

In regards to your wanting to be ready for spring, all I'd say is clean your rubble and amend with OM (either by digging it in or just spreading it on top) as soon as possible in advance of the planting season. Today even. It's a good time to go get a pickup truck of free manure to spread or pile up over winter!

If you pull the plants and roots out what will be done with them? Make compost?

If the plants and roots are left they will add organic matter to the soil and the nutrients they pulled from the soil during the growing season will be put back into the soil.

Whether to till depends on many things, but generally a raised bed does not need to be tilled.

If a good reliable soil test indicated a need for more nutrients, and if there is a source of good quality manure you can access that might be a good idea but compost would be better.

kimmq is kimmsr

I don't till. I use loppers to cut off the main stem and remove the plant leaving the roots in the soil to compost in place. No point removing the roots to place in a compost pile only to put compost back in bed at some point later.

IF the plant has disease and/or insect infestation it will go in the trash to go offsite; else it goes in the compost.

Now would be a good time to do any bedframe maintenance or rearranging of the beds. You can do any number of things to prepare the bed for next year.

Even covering the bed with leaves will encourage worms to populate the bed.

Grubby....what is OM please?

Kimmq, I do not plan to compost. So based on your post, it sounds like you suggest I leave everything (or at least the roots) and dont dig anything out. Is that correct?

Gumby, my tomato plants had septoria (as best as my amateur eye could diagnose it). Should I be removing the tomato roots from the soil, or once I cut the plant off at the base of the stem ... the rest can remain underground? That was the only disease I had this year, though it was a significant hit to enjoying many tomatoes. As for encouraging worms - are you suggesting i put down the leaves that fall from the trees in the upcoming weeks/month? Is there a thickness I should aim for....just a slight coating, or pile the leaves up? thank you

I (would) leave the tomato roots esp. since they are quite extensive.

Yes, the leaves that fall from the trees. Layer the leaves (or pile) as you like enuff to cover the soil - no magic recipes there. Tho if you run them thru a mower or shredder the smaller pieces won't get blown away so easily.

Be sure to save some leaves to mulch the garden next spring. Making a circular ring from wire fencing works well for this - search this forum for more ideas or suggestions on using wire fencing for compost bins.

obtw- OM= Organic Matter

Slice them off at the base and compost the tops.

Then dump a bunch of compost on top and rake it smooth. You can grow leafy greens all winter in Tucson. Chard, Bok Choy and spinach are frost-resistant. And many lettuce varieties.

I don't (wouldn't) compost diseased plants, esp. tomato plants - you can, I don't.

I would think that most compost piles are running cool this time of year so composting diseased plants or weeds with seeds in not something I would do if the pile is not H-O-T.

Reason is many tomato plants are easily diseased and the disease can (and does) overwinter even in places that get a hard freeze.

btw- who is in Tucson?

Unless there was a problem with some plant disease leave the plants where they are to feed the soil.

Pile any tree leaves, 4 to 6 inches in depth, on those raised beds as well but mow them, if you are going to, before putting them there since getting a mower onto a raised bed can be difficult. Earthworms need organic matter to feed on, so any type of organic matter will help them.

My compost piles are quite hot right now and as long as a compost pile is properly constructed it will. We have not even had a frost up here yet and night time temperatures have not been below 40. It simply has not been cold enough to slow down composting.

kimmq is kimmsr

Time is what will slow any compost pile - it only stays hot for a few days before it begins to cool.

Insects are another reason not to leave dead plants right where they grew. Many will burrow down in the soil to overwinter - its like raising your own pests <smile>. Of course you can IF you like.

Kimmq, you said earthworms need organic matter and any will do - do mulched leaves qualify or is there some other organic matter you would suggest please? Thanks

My bad ... I thought the OP was in Tucson.

It's a bit late to start winter greens in Zone 6.

While some of the bad insects may take up winter residence in garden debris many of the Beneficial's will also.

kimmq is kimmsr