Root crops (radish, beets, turnip) rising out of soil.
jimster
14 years ago
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fruitnut Z7 4500ft SW TX
14 years agofarmerdilla
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Root crop puzzle
Comments (28)Now that's interesting. We get so used to hearing about P and K when it comes to root crops we end up neglecting N as if it's not needed at all. As it turns out, while I usually mulch over the winter with just shredded leaves, I kinda went Starbucks crazy this winter, and dumped a bunch of coffee grounds on top of the leaves. And of course, when I removed the mulch a bunch of grounds ended up in my soil. So many, in fact, that I was wondering if I overdid it. But I'm definitely in a carbon overload situation, and everything so far seems to be germinating normally, so maybe it won't turn out to be a problem. That does remind me though that I really should get some radishes in when the weather warms up again... I should also comment on chard. The past few years I've been hilling my potatoes with leaves and/or straw to combat the Colorado potato bug (works like a charm I might add!) Anyway, after digging up my spuds last year I tilled the leaves (which were essentially leaf mold) into the soil and then transplanted out some chard and kale into this area (without any fertilization). The kale didn't do much (but it was a dwarf variety and my first year, so I didn't know what to expect). It now appears that a good dose of N may have been in order. But my real point is that the chard went *gangbusters* - I had chard the size of bed sheets. Well, maybe flags :o) And as above, my lettuce always does very well as well... I guess the big question on my mind now is whether or not coffee grounds or seed meal will release their N fast enough to benefit radishes. I'm thinking that at this time of year possibly not. Might be time to pull out that gallon jug of fish emulsion I bought yesterday :o) Cheers, Tim...See Moreharvesting/storing root crops
Comments (12)If your root veggies get rubbery in the vegetable bin in the fridge, it is usually dessication rather than freezing. Refridgerators are normally frost free, which means they draw the moisture out of whatever is exposed in the fridge, condense it on the coils, then melt the water into the drip pan during the defrost cycle. Be sure to keep your root veggies in bags to retain their moisture and they will last for many months. The closer the temp to 32 without actually freezing the longer they will keep. Properly prepared carrots and beets keep very well in the freezer. When you cook them, they are much closer to fresh than canned ones are, plus it is a lot less work to freeze them than it is to can them with a pressure cooker to prevent food poisoning. I harvest my remaining beets and most of the carrots as late as possible without actually letting the ground freeze, usually sometime in October. Cut the entire top off the carrots, leave 1 1/2 to 2 inches of the stems on beets. Put them in a plastic bag, such as a grocery bag and tie the top, then store them in the coolest place available, often an unheated but insulated porch. I remove them if we get well below 0 and it freezes in there. I also have an incubator room which is maintained at around 40 degrees throughout the winter and often snag a little room to store the bags in there. Keeping them in the ground and heavily mulched until you need them is great and probably preserves them better than digging and storing. Beets don't really like being frozen in the garden, but carrots don't seem to mind much unless it gets really cold. That's where a heavy mulch will keep them cold without getting too cold. I usually harvest a few jerusalem artichokes in March when cleaning up whatever remains of last year's stalks after the livestock get done grazing and they never seem to be the least bit harmed by being frozen in the ground all winter with no surface protection. I don't grow parsnips, but they used to grow "wild" in the orchard and they were always best if dug in the early spring after overwintering in the frozen ground. Just a few thoughts and experiences--feel free to experiment and see what works for you. Some root crops will do fine without any protection over the winter, some will do fine with protection, some need to be dug. It all depends on your climate and what you like to grow....See MoreOats, tillage radish, crimson clover cover crop
Comments (10)Can't help with the rates since I forget and go with specific plates in my Gardenway planter anyway. I've used oats planted here in mid-Sept. for an excellent cover as they will pull up residual N from the preceding veggies, grow lots of tops for cover and then either frost kill in the Fall or get mowed down if they try to go to seed. The result is improved soil tilth in the following Spring and substantial soil surface cover from Fall through Spring cultivation. Planting too early yields a stand that goes to seed, too late and not as much cover as I'd like so, mid-Sept. works best here. This year I decided to plant oats as a nurse crop for Berseem clover fro the first time. The clover and oats were planted about 2 weeks ago as that was supposed to be the best time for the clover though a little early for the oats. the clover was planted in roww on 10" centers with the oats alternating on 20" centers. Everything has come up well with the oats really humping it. the clover seems to be poking along pretty slowly so, not too sure how much cover it'll provide for the Winter. The clover hopefully will be well established to get a good fast start come Spring. As for the radishes, my only experience with them was this Spring, they got a fantastic start but too many weeds got going amongst them so I mowed the whole mess down and kept the weeds cultivated for the Summer. Maybe a much higher stand density would have worked better to smother the weeds, live and learn ya know. Good luck and don't stop trying different stuff for your area....See MoreFirst SFG and so far the radishes, beets and carrots are duds
Comments (11)"I spaced them at 1" but I was sort of thinking I should have done 2"." Who knew they were all going to grow! Although I did have the same rate of germination last year when I glued them to the Kleenex ;-) It's a good thing we love baby carrots. For those who would like to try this method, here is what I did: I used Elmer's Glue...the white kind, which is water soluble. I just laid out the 12-inch square sheet of newspaper, grabbed a Sharpie pen and made the dots an inch apart in all directions, then put the dots of glue on the marks. I took a pencil and moistened (licked) the tip and picked up one carrot seed at a time and nudged it into the glue. It only took a few minutes, at the table while having my morning coffee! I let them dry over night before planting. I laid the sheets of seeds on top of the bed (damp ground....water the area before hand) and just barely covered them with some sifted soil. Then I laid boards over them until they began to emerge (check daily after the first week...when you see green remove the boards). After they were up a couple of inches, I could still see some of the newspaper poking out above the surface so I just took a few handfuls of soil and sifted a bit more over the top. I ended up with 336 seeds in a 1'x4' area, but I'd suggest cutting that amount in half. I've also made carrot seed tapes with 2" strips of newspaper, and I glued that seed with slightly farther spacing. Granny Here is a link that might be useful: Annie's Kitchen Garden...See Moreribbit32004
14 years agovikingkirken
14 years agourban_farmer_seeds
14 years agom_lorne
14 years agojimster
14 years agopnbrown
14 years agocyrus_gardner
14 years agodaveainva
14 years agocyrus_gardner
14 years agonewview31024_yahoo_com
13 years ago
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